01fxst

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of a procharger install. I know it's going to need more fuel than the stock pump can provide and had originally planned dual walbro pumps. Then I read about dual pumps out flowing the capacity of the stock pressure regulator at idle. If I swapped out the pressure regulator for one of the aeromotive LT1 rail style regulators will I be good to go with dual pumps? In other words will the aeromotive pressure regulator flow better than the stock regulator?

This is merely a stop gap until I swap out the entire fuel system to run E85 and Methanol.

Some details about the car:
383, 42 lb injectors, D1SC procharger. I don't have a specific goal in mind, just to get as much as I can out of the system.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You should be using a boost referenced regulator , though I would look at something other than Aeromotive. Haven't heard of any in awhile but at one point the best way to burn you LT1 car to the ground was to install an Aeromotive regulator and let it fail and leak.

If boosting Golen junk have a backup plan.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

most dual pump set ups only run one until boosting via hobbs switch, contact lonnie at lpa hes really the guy to talk to........u can run a boost ref regulator but its not necessary w lonnies setup.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

fyi i wld jump up to at least 60#injectors as well

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

You HAVE to run a boost ref regulator or the flow rate of the injector would change.

MEAN LT1

iTrader: (2)

Stock reg should be fine. The stock reg will be boost referenced as long as the stock vacuum line is hooked up. For every pound of boost your FP will go up with it linearly. Have the 2nd pump come on with a hobbs switch. Thats how I ran mine and it worked fine.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

mines only been on for a yr but i know countless others that have the same set up without issues , i would talk 2 lonnie this is all he does he know the answers......THE CORRECT ANSWERS......

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

I was going to say that, but your too fast. LOL

Never had one of those engines make any power on my dyno.
But, fill-in- the-blank magazine said.......

I have had an Areomotive regulator on my race car for a few years now, but that ain't a hundred miles, right? That would be 400 passes. LOL

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Maybe Aeromotive actually resolved the issues but I know at one point they were really really bad about leaking.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Race cars don't get enough miles for something like that to show up. I'll keep an eye on mine.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

not familiar w golen at all but if ur not forged u will be rebuilding very soon w a d1sc on a lt1 383.

01fxst

According to the Aeromotive website the 13107 is boost referenced. Is there something I am not understanding here?

The long term plans are to rip out the entire fuel system and replace with a fuel cell, and replumb everything for E85. So I won't be changing injectors until I do that. When I do I am planning 80 lb injectors.

The motor is forged pistons and rods. Since it is a street motor we opted for a non-forged crank. I have to say I can't relate to all the hate for Golen motors, this motor has been nothing but flawless for me. We're going to keep the boost low initially until I can get everything else sorted out. As with everything else I'm learning as I go.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

I don't hate them, just never had one come through here that made any power.

Never saw a fast one. (Unless sprayed. But, put enough of that crap through a Honda and they will run nines.)

Maybe they are better now.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

I wld say call lonnie and get a dual walbro set up and stick w the stock fuel regulator for now until u go e85 there is no need for a boost referenced regulator

TravisMcGill2000

iTrader: (2)

I wouldnt run booat on a cast crank. If i aint mistaking there only rated to like 500 fwhp. Ive never ran one but there alot ppl break them on na motors. Good luck

01fxst

Well, hindsight is always 20/20. If I had to do it over again I would have put a forged crank in the car and pistons with a larger dish to lower the compression. At the time the original motor went south I didn't have the funds for the build I did, much less the motor I want now. The plan is to take this motor as far as I can, and if I drive over the crank, then I drive over the crank. I know it is only rated to 500hp, and I'm close to that now with stock heads. I am assuming there is a fair bit of fudge factor in that rating. I assume the crank can take 10 or 20% more than the rating. That should get me into the 500 whp range and I'm okay with that for the time being. There are a lot of options for the future. One is to pull the motor and put a decent set of heads on it (and could swap the crank then). We could pull this motor and slap it into my 94 Impala SS, then build a whole new motor for the Camaro. Those are all down the road options. I know the D1 is overkill for my short term plans, but I doubt I will out grow it. Regardless of what I do long term I can bolt the D1 to it and continue moving forward.

I appreciate the advice guys, don't think I'm blowing you off. I have to live with the decisions I made in the past and the direction I want the car to go. As life changes my options have changed, and I will be boosting this car. The D1SC is going in as we speak.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

I have run dual Walbros boost referenced to kick the 2nd pump on via a Hobbs switch for years now with success.

I had been using the stock lines and an Accel FPR.

+1 on upping the injectors to 60# injectors. Those 42# injectors will not be enough.

Also (and this is really important), be careful what 255 lph fuel pumps you run. Most out there are Chinese knockoffs that fail not too long after install and are still sold by many reputable venders without their knowledge. If you get a Racetronix 255lph pump you'll be okay (I have yet to hear anyone from then crapping out prematurely). But if you get a straight Walbro from anyone, be aware it might/and probably will be junk.