JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

After hours of trying to remove the bolt on top of shock, it's finally rounded off and can't hold it with nothing to remove the nut on top of the "hat". So... The spring is still compressed, where do I need to cut the shock at??

My KYBs are going to be here tomorrow and I have an alignment appointment at 11:30 on Saturday. I'm thinking I need to cut the shock as close to the top of the coil as possible so that I can grab the shaft with some vice grips and clamp as I turn the nut, is this the best way possible? I'll be using a saw-zall if it matters..

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

If you're cutting the shock you can cut it anywhere. But you'll never be able to pull it through the mount because that mount rests on a lip at the top of the shaft.

Please tell me you're not trying to reuse your 14 year old mounts? You really just need new ones.

If you still want to try, you could use a dremel or similar to chop through the nut on top. I did that as it was easier to cut that nut off than try to cut the shock shaft. I was trying to reuse the mounts before I learned that it wasn't possible (the centers ripped out). I got to at least save and reuse the $5 isolator plate

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

I'm guessing when your saying mounts your talking about the thing on top of the shock that slides in the upper control arm? This is my first time doing new springs on the front and its kicking my ***..

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Can you get these mounts at like auto zone? If I could torch that top bolt and not worry about damaging that rubber piece on top of the bolt, I could easily get it off.

SuperSport01

First compress the spring and then cut the shock shaft anywhere you can get at it. If you really want to reuse the upper mounts you can re-cut the stem of the shock at the washer on the bottom of the mount.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

I got the new rubber pieces ordered. I'm guessing this is what everyone is talking about?

dws6

My car had 13k miles on it I had still had the same problem. Compress the spring and just cut under the nut. It's cake.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

There are two parts to the mount -- the rubber isolators and the mount itself. Here is a picture of the mount:

(old on the left, obviously)



That metal sleeve in front of the left one was due to the same issue you're talking about. We fought with these things for5 hours to reuse them (no local parts stores had any in stock). We finally cut them and "rigged" something so I could get home.

Just do yourself and buy new mounts. ACDelco part numbers 501-148 (driver) and 501-149 (passenger). They're like $50 from Amazon.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

I just got the new rubber isolators from AutoZone. I didn't know anything about the sleeves though.. I really need to have this back together by Saturday and it won't be possible if I can't reuse the mounts though. Where are the sleeves located at on the assembly??

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Ignore that metal sleeve... That was a "custom" rigging job because we had to cut the inside of the mount out [to reuse it] as it had seized to the strut piston/nut. Had I had new strut mounts in the first place, we'd not have needed to do anything like that.

The strut mounts have a molded "sleeve" that doesn't come out.

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

^THIS man speaks the truth^^^

I just did this last month. Get Moog.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Heh, I feel you. Mine did the same to me the first time. Took me a whole week to get it all back together because I had to order in the mounts. That's why every time I see someone talking about doing suspension work I just tell them get new stuff to try to save them the hassle.

Moog or AC Delco are the way to go as they will fit properly. Others are a mixed bag, but don't even try the O'reilly house brand even though they might have them in stock - complete and utter garbage. Misalignment, cheap small bolts that strip out because of poorly cut threads, they even feel light and flimsy. Simply awful.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

If I can't get it off with ease tonight, I'll just order new

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

If i just order the new mounts though, isn't that everything required to not even have to fool with the old combo? New mounts, isolators, springs and shocks??

garygnu

maybe try to cut off the nut off from the top.use a small hand grinder and a small cut off wheel.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

I just found these and they are 50$ a piece!! Don't want to have to spend that at all..

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Remember you'll need the dogbone piece that sits inside too...

Moog K6516 and K6517 are the left and right mounts, $51.79 and $46.79 from Rock Auto.
Moog K6573 is the insulator piece. $4.47 each from Rock Auto.

Empatho

iTrader: (16)

I had a similar problem with mine, I just cut the nut with an air hammer and reused all my old parts.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

That's what they cost... IIRC, even the aftermarket brands (like Moog, which has been mentioned) were that much. They do not come with the rubber isolators, either.

However, with new mounts, isolators and struts you've replaced everything necessary.

Oh, another thing to consider would be sway bar endlinks. They're likely junk and they need to come off when doing this stuff.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Little update: got the nut cut off last night and had no problems with the factory mounts. Took some brake cleaner and SOS style pad on my die grinder and they cleaned up perfect. Got the new springs built but didn't install. Went ahead and cleaned/painted everything that looked rough.

Going back together tonight, any advice to make things go a little smoother?

Thanks for all the help guys!