Endrance

I was thinking for the set up I want to do I could buy a set of LS3 heads and just port those, and it would be a more cost efficient way to do a head swap, considering i can get complete LS3 heads for $700. The cam I'm going with is the TR 232/224 cam. Does this sound like a combo? Any suggestions and insite are appreciated.


Thanks in advance,

Endrance

BigBirdLS1

What engine is this going on? Supporting mods...any info you can give will help get you more accurate answers.

Don't just throw parts at a motor and expect it to perform. Planning out each and every mod then planning the part choices to beat suit your needs and complement each other is the ONLY way to build a performance engine.

Ask all the SBF guys what happens when you just throw parts at and engine. You make ~280rwhp and it cost $2500 lol

Endrance

Forgot my sig doesn't show when I post from my phone. These will be for my LS1 on my formula. I'm avoiding throwing parts on the car and rolling the dice by posting on here. I don't like throwing away my money (without seeing results anyway). The plan on the car is to do full bolt ons with heads and cam. It's my dd so I don't want to get crazy.

BigBirdLS1

I'm on my phone too so I wouldn't have seen it anyways. Lol

If you have a stock bottom end LS1 then the LS3 heads won't be for you. The intake ports won't match up I know ; I believe you'll need the LS3 intake manifold, fuel rails, and TB, then you'll need to convert your car to "fly by wire" and not use a throttle cable. Furthermore, the LS3 heads were designed for a 4" bore or larger.

Yes you can use LS3 heads on a stock bottom end LS1, but IMHO you'd be better off budget wise to use heads specifically made for the LS1. It'd be cheaper, easier, and make similiar power as the LS3 top end conversion.

I hope this helps and I'm no expert at all so if I'm wrong about anything I do apologize.

lt1 sport

iTrader: (13)

LS3 heads will bolt onto your LS1 but the valves will hit the cylinder wall, they need a 4.000 min bore, your LS1 is 3.898. Your best bet is to get ahold of company who knows LS stuff and can get you a head n cam package together designed for what you want out of the car and your goals. Examples: Texas speed, advanced induction.

inssanity21

iTrader: (16)

Ballistic speed has them. http://ballisticspeedparts.com/shop/...6-ls2-engines/

zuanpejn

That could mean anything though.

Fry_

You need to either call a sponsor and have them help you pick out a head cam kit and required supporting mods/bolt-on's or spend the next 2-3 weeks researching what you want/need to buy and how to put them on. So far you plans have 3 different problems, 1 your trying to pick out a head cam package for a car with no bolt-on's or supporting mods, 2 the heads and cam you want are a complete mismatch, and 3 you can't put LS3 heads on a LS1 the bore is to small. Also is your car a M6 or A4.

Endrance

I realize all of that which is precisely why I'm posting on here, to get insight so i can make the right choices when the time comes. The car is an M6.

Sierra Speed Shop

Feel free to give us a call, Private message, or e-mail. We'll be more then happy to help you find the best set up for you, and our prices are pretty damn good as well!

As stated earlier in the thread, the LS3 heads will bolt on, but they wont clear the cylinder walls. Fortunately, there is a huge selection of heads for your engine that will work, and work great as well.

Thanks,
Kyle

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Either way, ls3 heads will not work. Even if for some reason they would, they would be entirely too much for a stock cube ls1.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Mostly right, but they will physically fit on an ls1 but not run. As stated the valves will hit the top of the deck.

Also, they do make cable tb's for ls3 intakes.

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

Easy fix, get the 5.3 heads instead of LS3. Buy them cheaper, increase cylinder pressure, make more power for less.

Fry_

Step one would be getting all or at least most of your bolt-ons. I'd start with a lid, SSRA,Fast Toys or Chris1313 ram air kit, a ported TB, and any catback other than a flowmaster, unless you plan to run true dual's then just wait till you have headers. Those are all pretty easy to install yourself and wont require a new tune. After those basic upgrades it's time to finish off your bolt-ons with headers with your choice of either off-road or catted Y-pipe, a cutout in you I-pipe, a mail order tune, and if your car is a 1998-2000 an LS6 intake. For headers TSP 1 7/8's are a great bang for the buck sense there stainless steal and only $530 and there Y-pipe has a good merge collector, American Racing Headers are the best of the best, but are also very expensive and the HP difference would be marginal. If you want true dual's clear out the back then get kook's headers and true dual exaust, it's bad @ss but expensive. I wouldn't get kooks headers and Y-pipe because there y-pipe doesn't have a merge collector. After all of that your almost ready for heads and a cam, but you still should consider some suspension parts like sub-frame connectors, lower control arms, and a torque arm than moves the mounting point off you tail housing (it's possible to have you torque arm break your tail housing), and I wouldn't count on your clutch holding after you get heads and a cam so you might want to upgrade it before it's a problem. In the time it takes to do all of that work you'll have plenty of time to research your head/cam plans.

garygnu

it is cheaper to buy ported heads from a vendor ,then to buy heads and pay for shipping to and from the porter.unless you get some 243/799 heads for $200.