kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

I installed a '00 6.0 in my '84 C10 and actually got it started and even drove it today (around the block)

When I plug in the MAF it immediately dies, assumed it was a bad one and swapped another one in but exact same thing. Any ideas?

Also since I am using the original TH350 how would it know when to shift? Do I need to find some way of hooking up the original kickdow

psiconversion

iTrader: (5)

Kickdown and vacuum modulator should be hooked up to get it to shift.

What MAF are you using? Is it the correct one for the tune?

Jon
PSI

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Chk for +12v between pink and black wires at MAF harness connector with ignition switch ON. Likely you don't have it so maf does nit produce a signal to pcm, so truck won't run. Also don't plug in maf with engine running. Turn ign off first.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Big difference between MAF and no MAF on a vehicle..is it tuned or still factory tune?

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Thanks for all the input gents.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Verify electrical first. Even if maf ttable is totally off target, generally it won't die immediately.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Is the MAF in the intake tube? If you just got it running and don't have an air intake plumbed up, and just plug in a MAF, it will die. It needs to have the air intake going through it.

psiconversion

iTrader: (5)

Agree with Novaman. Make sure the pinout is correct.

Jon
PSI

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

On the transmission, you need the vacuum modulator hooked up for it to shift. On a 350 turbo, the kick down doesn't need to be hooked up, but it will make the truck feel like a slug at times, since it won't be able to down shift when needed. You could manually downshift it, but that gets really old really fast.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

As soon as the sun comes up, I will check it with my voltmeter, maybe post a pic as well.

I think I may have tossed the hose in the bed of the truck back when I just knew I was getting a 4l80e.

The MAF is indeed in the intake tube with the arrow depicting flow pointing towards the engine.

If I have 12+ at the pink or black, I'll go from there.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

On a side note I cheaped out and modified the original throttle cable to attach to the outside of throttle wheel instead of following the groove, so I basically just eliminated the mounting point for the throttle kick-down....too clever for my own good

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

I had 12vs from the pink wire (positive probe inserted in connector and negative probe grounded to frame)

How would I test the black wire? Don't want to fry my ecm while basking in ignorance.

Took a pic of the connector and tube as well. Figured if you guys are helping might as well burn the midnight oil...literally.

stangtrader

iTrader: (2)

Ground you can either ohm or test the harness for a brake.yellow wire iirc is a 0-5v ref for the pcm.one thing tho.i recently helped some one on a swap with the same issue and it turned out to be a bad maf.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Yellow is MAF freq output. Black is ground. Pink is switched ignition. Other two wires are inlet air temp sensor output.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

I swapped in a different MAF and still got nothing.

My harness has 1 pink, 1 black, 2 grey and a brown. I assume the brown is the MAF freq. So how exactly do I check the ground wire? As stated the pink has 12v.

psiconversion

iTrader: (5)

You can check the ground by putting one tester probe to power and the other to the black wire, it should show batter voltage.

The two gray wires are IAT.

Jon
PSI

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

If the original 100mm maf is bad and I plug in a standard one, would it still not work because the ecm is programmed to recognize the 100mm? Just wondering since I plugged both in and it still cutoff.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Thanks Jon. I will do that now.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Ok:

Pink wire: 12v
Black wire: 12v
Yellow(freq) 5v

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

Im guessing you have 12v between pink and black? Just trying to clarify that you do not have 12v on the black wire too.

What you checked is checking out, the PCM will uses all the sensors combined to make a determination on how the vehicle is running. My guess is you probably have a conflict between your MAP and your MAF readings. You should double check your MAP sensor and your MAP pinout. Glad to hear you are using a multimeter and not a test light!

The MAP Pinout is as follows

A Black or Orange with a black stripe. - Low Reference
B Light Green. - Map Sensor Signal
C Gray - 5 Volt Reference.