30thblackcam

iTrader: (2)

Transmission was rebuilt in August 2012 and Monster 2 kit was installed with new tick master, pilot bearing, and brand new slave cylinder. Everything worked perfectly until about 1500 miles after install. I began to notice 4th gear grinding to a point where it does it every time and 3rd gear will grind about half the time if i shift into it too fast. Other gears are notchy, but don't make any noise shifting into them.

The other problem I have is shifting into 1st and reverse from a dead stop. It sometimes becomes difficult to get into either. The car rolls when shifting into 1st from a flat spot sitting still. The hydraulic system has been bled and rebled. I have played with the pedal adjustment with no luck.

I am just trying to figure out if the issue is in my transmission or something to do with the clutch set up.

I will say that the clutch performs real well outside of this issue and feels great on a 1st or 2nd gear stomp.

I am just super puzzled as to why everything would start out great with no problems and then take a downward slope.

Any help on the matter would be greatly appreciated.

cam75w/ls1

iTrader: (2)

It's either hydraulics not releasing fully or pilot bearing is dragging the main shaft. Usually the pilot bearing will get worse after 15 min driving and hydraulics stay not working right full time.

02ls1gun

try pumping the clutch when your having a problem at a dead stop. If it slides into gear easily its def hydraulics. I had a ram srt10 do the same thing. I would pump the clutch and it would then go away. I replaced the master cylinder and never had the problem again.......

Scoobysnacks

iTrader: (1)

Could be something with the rebuild but.... damn this sounds familliar

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Assuming the rebuild was done correctly, did you measure to make sure you didn't need a shim? If you needed a shim and didn't put one the TOB could be having a hard time reaching the PP fingers and it's not disengaging the clutch all the way and causing the grinding and notchiness.

Scoobysnacks

iTrader: (1)

Could be the build but, I beat the shim question to death when I had this issue and Monster swears up and down thier clutches dont require a shim

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Our clutches do not require a shim, especially with a adjustable master cylinder.

The clutch will not cause the transmission to selectively grind in gears, it either does work or it doesn't. I would start by adjusting the master cylinder after the setup has been bled thoroughly. If after that you are still experiencing problems just give me a shout and we'll walk through a few things.

30thblackcam

iTrader: (2)

I hope its not the pilot bearing seeing that it is brand new. I don't notice any crazy noise coming from it. The old one was worn out and I could hear the input shaft rattling around inside of it.

I will try this, but I sure hope my brand new tick adjustable mc hasn't already taken a dump on me.

Does 3rd and 4th grinding have anything to do with them being the closest gears to the front of the transmission? The system has been bled thoroughly and the pedal has been adjusted with no change. I am afraid to adjust it too much with worry that it will damage the pressure plate. Could this have anything to do with loose pressure plate bolts? I guess the whole degradation of the setup is what gets me, because everything started out just fine.

Thanks for all the help!

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

"It could very well be loose pressure plate bolts, obviously you'll have to remove the setup to see that. It's typical to have to re-adjust the master after you've put some miles on the clutch. Just to be safe though, I'd pull the unit and triple check everything. If you have questions just shoot me pics and I'll go over it all with you. My email address is steve@monsterclutches.com, I'll be more than happy to help in any way possible."

30thblackcam

iTrader: (2)

Yeah my goal is to pull everything as soon as I can. I will have to find a weekend to do it. I tried pumping the pedal to get it to go into 1st gear from a dead stop and it didn't help any. My initial reaction with all of this is that something happened in my 3-4 synchronizer or the corresponding blocker rings. I sure hope the PP bolts are not loose and I don't see how they could have come loose, but crazier things have happened.

I appreciate all of the help and suggestions.

30thblackcam

iTrader: (2)

Looks like I am going to pull the trans this weekend. Something in my rear is broken so I am fixing it and going to pull the trans. Assuming the clutch setup is correct, does anybody have any idea what might have gone wrong in the trans? The sychronizer assembly and billet keys are brand new in the rebuild.

Ivan2008

Sounds to me you might have a bent fork .. Due to the problem your having getting it in gear and wore out ur syncros .. Prob time for another rebuild after you get ur prob figured out I am guessing adjusting ur master cylinder

30thblackcam

iTrader: (2)

The 3/4 shift fork was replaced with a steel shift fork. I am starting to wonder if it is some sort of gap problem or blocker ring issue.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Sounds to me like you've got clutch release issues, I'd spend your time there instead of worrying about the transmission. The likely reason you're seeing 3rd/4th issues and not 1st/2nd is that 3/4 uses a single cone blocker ring and 1/2 uses a double cone (twice the friction area). The clutch is dragging enough that the smaller single cone blockers can't speed/slow the drive gears without clashing the engagement teeth but the doubles are still able to.

All that said, if you've been grinding the bejesus out of 3rd/4th for awhile, then you've done damage to the synchros as well as the drive gears...and if they're bad enough they'll cause shifting problems even with a properly releasing clutch. Good luck!

30thblackcam

iTrader: (2)

Well I quit using 4th gear altogether as soon as the grinding started. I would just skip it. The only times I have noticed problems with 3rd is when I shift too fast or it will grind at random going from like 1st to 3rd. It does make sense with the blocker rings like you mentioned.

I just can't imagine something being wrong with the clutch set-up with everything being brand new. Maybe the pressure plate bolts are backed out or something, I just don't know. I can't wait to get it out and see what the deal is. I just don't want to be doing this over and over again.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

While it's apart make sure you measure to see if you need a shim behind the slave or not. I know it's been said that the clutch you have doesn't require one, but it's silly not to check. Several years ago I put a Spec 3 clutch in my car, and they swear up and down that a shim is required so I put one in. I couldn't even get the trans back in b/c the slave was bottoming out. Took it all apart, measured and found I didn't need a shim. Put it back together minus shim and beat the snot out of it for 3 years! Long story short, every car is different for whatever reason so measure!

Bacon

The only way to know if you need a shim is to measure.

Try shifting into 1st or reverse when the car is off. If it goes in easily (or at least easier) then its likely the clutch.

I never had grinding issues, but I had issues with 1st and reverse and I also had a car that would lurch when I put it in gear from a standstill on flat ground. All were fixed with a new, correctly shimmed LS7 clutch. I think jmm explained the syncros well and why you may experience grinding in some gears and not others.

This is pure speculation, but it sure seems that people have a lot of issues with adjustable masters...why the big desire to use one? I dont race, but my stocker works fine.

30thblackcam

iTrader: (2)

well i pulled everything apart in the trans and discovered that my 4th gear blocker ring was in beyond terrible condition. what could have caused this? the blocker ring appeared good back during the rebuild several months ago, but it is certainly not now. i tried to attach a picture, but wasnt having any luck there.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Was the 4th and 3rd gear blocker replaced during the rebuild as it should have been? If so then it sounds like the clutch not being released correctly would fry the rings if they were reused then they likely just **** the bed. this time make sure ALL blockers get replaced and post up pics of the gear to make sure they are still reuseable.

30thblackcam

iTrader: (2)

The blocker rings were not replaced on 3rd and 4th. The only blocker rings that were replaced were 1st and 2nd because they came with the brand new synchro assembly. I was basically working with friends that had done this before and went off of their advice. I don't remember the blocker ring for 4th looking like that tho. All blocker rings are getting replaced this time. The gears do look really good. I am also replacing the 3/4 billet keys. My stuff should all be in tomorrow and I will start getting it all back together tomorrow night and Friday night.