raam

I am putting an LS into my 95 M3 track car for HPDE and TT events but might run W2W someday so taking my time to do this right. I will be in NASA ST2 if they will let me as a few things are beyond the norm and not reversible. If in ST2 I would only need 330 WHP and add more weight. I am working on both ideas until I get a response from them but have to do a finish up a more things before I can send them pics.

This is for an ST1 build if I have to run it and will need 470 WHP at the current weight the car will run at or even more and add some weight as often that is faster in a power to weight ratio class, 250 lbs of ballast is allowed.

I will post a mirror of this on the LS1/6 forum for the lower power build as well but if possibly want to stay with the larger bore, run a restricter, etc so I can just tweak up the engine if I decide later to run more power, ST1 class, etc....

Normally I would have the funds to just have built whatever I need but chose to retire myself earlier than planned, my new partner and business manager will take care of me and as the business grows, funds will be a bit easier to come buy.

So, LS2 is probably the way to go, been looking for a good low mileage one to do a few things to bring up the power to the 470 WHP, I have a mid size diff with OS Giken LSD, solid everything, tubular suspension, all monoball, 3-way custom Ohlins, 5.5 clutch, aluminum drive shaft will be used....not much loss in the delivery.

Looking at built T56, TKO 600 and dog boxes(would have to regear for a dog box)

And, I want to run on pump gas instead of race fuel, I want it all eh!

LS3, L92, those heads have serious road course oiling issues from many things I have read. LS2, LS6, not so, seems GMPP ported LS6 heads might do well for the cost. I am pretty sure I can make this work with the right heads, lifter, etc, mods for oiling and I have a complete Accusump setup from my old LS6 race Vette.

I do not need any frills, any exotic parts to brag about, billet this and that, just what works and will last decently.

Budget range, $5-6k for a complete engine minus tune but can go a bit higher if I must. I will not be running the snot out of it every lap of the events, I will use it a lot but will be running different tracks all over I have never been on and not trying to win any races(well, I am very competitive, do not like being passed, love passing, too much fun

I can put an engine together but certainly not a master at it, I would do my research, etc if I did so. I can do simple porting, the kind you get some decent gains without the experience to do very in depth get all you can out of it effort, I am not that well versed in it.

A list of parts would help, I can dig around and find deals in good used, new but unused, etc....I have bought and sold at least $150k in parts over the last 4 years and mostly done very well at it.

Your advice would be greatly appreciated.

Your constructive negative views as well.

Tell me to go pack sand if you will, I am OK with that as well.

Thanks, have a great new week!
Rick
801-829-4997

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

Ls2 shortblock
Ai ported 243/799
Pat g cam
Fast 102
Usual supporting mods

There ya go

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

^ what he said, but add shaft rockers with rollers and oil restricted pushrods for road racing, unless you've got a dry sump setup already

raam

Thanks, a few more things and questions

I will have long tube headers and build a very good exhaust, solid engine and trans mounts, can use an electric water pump, will use a 50 amp mini alt as I have two new ones....

1) LS2 short block, new factory one, rebuilt one from from???

2) Ai ported 243/799, heads but have no idea what you are refering to as to Ai, etc....???

3) Pat G cam, I have heard him mentioned, will search and find

4) Fast 102, makes sense, I can do some research and probably port it quite well myself as very meticulous when it comes to such things(I have built SS turbo systems from intake to exhaust tip)

Buying all the little stuff, covers, accesorry drives, injectors, fuel rails, etc.... can add up quickly so buying a used engine would help if I can find one for a good deal and sell what I do not need.....unless I can find those parts that are OK to use, used.....

I have been searching locally for a crap engine for fitment work but no luck yet...might get lucky and find one with some parts I could use then dump it when done.

I have been told the Holley HP EFI would be a great way to go, that is not in the engine budget, nor are the headers, flywheel, clutch, mounts, intake, etc, those are budgeted already.

Thanks
Rick

raam

I am trying to stay away from dry sump, so much added cost, complexity, things to go wrong with so many fittings, weight, time to setup.....and I have known those that still blew up an engine with one.

If I do all the tricks to take care of the oiling issues, pan, as you mentioned roller rockers, restricted pushrods, Milodon road race pan, Accusump......etc....

Am I going to have success, if or am I just wasting my time and best to just dig up some more money and get a dry sump right away....???

I really do not want to run one but if I have no choice...

Thanks
Rick

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

Covered that one in his other thread

raam

I need to update my sig!

06 Vert is gone
06 Duramax as well
07 V8 4runner instead of SS Trailblazer fit our needs better
05 TC is gone

Now, 2012 Duramax dually getting some sweet mods
95 M3, sold the LS6 to go with S54 but in the end, should of kept it as just had to do the LS after all.
I still have an 02 Z06 chassis with a 53 Studebaker pro tour project but considering selling it as well.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

My recommendation is search craigslist, ebay, lkq, and local salvage yards for a ls2 complete motor.

AI is a head porting company. 243 and 799 are the head castings that are LS6. Smaller chambers and better flow.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Stock LS3, stock heads and intake with dbl vlv springs and a TSP 231/236 114lsa cam. Thats my combo and I made 460rwhp untuned. Stock 6.2L short block is $1500-2500, new heads are $700 for the pair and $400 for the cam.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/western-m...tune-dyno.html

Btw I track my car. Its still a wet sump with the batwing oil pan. Never had an oiling issue at the track even on long banked left hand turns.

raam

I was a fool and sold a superb LS6 for way to low to a buddy to get it out of my shop and now wish I had not done so.....

I will check on the AI head porting LS6 heads as I know they are good heads(very similar to LS2 if I recall?) I wonder how the AI ones compare to the GMPP ported ones perf/cost.

OH, I get it, LS2, larger bore, probably larger chambers..... so the LS6 heads are better

Maybe I get it, as mentioned a bit tired right now, been a VERY long day...

Thanks!
Rick

raam

I have read far to many stories with the LS3 heads having oiling issues for road course cars. My car will have considerable downforce, wide slicks...I had more toy money when I started this all out build, $15k in suspension, great brakes, floor mounted pedals, Woodward steering column, seat way back and inboard, intense cage that is super stiff.....

Any cost effective heads without the oiling issues that would work on the 6.2 block???

raam

I have been searching like mad for a good LS2 for a decent price and none around here.

I have bought engines from LKQ before, been totally happy with them.

I have a few emails and calls out there I hope to hear some good news on tomorrow.

Thanks!

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Some guys have drilled the oil return passages on the heads bigger for faster drainback. Also some use restricted pushrods to limit the amount of oil that goes to the heads. This is also why I used a regular LS6 oil pump. Some guys go with too much pump and all that oil doesnt get back to the pan fast enough. Take those precautions and Ill think youll find the LS3 heads to work just fine. Plenty of guys running LS3's on Corvetteforum's road racing section.

raam

I have been out of the Vette racing scene for some time, never really raced, just spend a fortune building stuff then building other stuff but it was still fun...I will have to check that forum. I used to be a vendor until last fall but was just to busy getting ready to retire, etc to handle the added load of running a busy business, massive retirement effort, and taking care of the guys for the ultra low weight, very high end audio systems I was offering.

(my partner, with some help from me, might bring those back and we have a way to get a C7 available as soon as they are sold, I really would just design the system and organize everyone behind it then be on my merry way)

I will check there!

Thanks,
Rick

86Z28USAF

iTrader: (1)

i have a freshly machined block im selling if it helps any

raam

Still looking at ideas, almost bought a low mileage LS2/T56 dropout but missed the deal but OK with that.

I really do not want to build an engine but considering it.

Thanks
Rick

ws6guy27

iTrader: (31)

i have a set of prc 2.5 ls6 243 heads for sale. my car made 459 whp but with ls6 intake. if u get a fast uil see a way bigger diff

86Z28USAF

iTrader: (1)

no problem just let me know

tsheehan

iTrader: (1)

We make 440 with ls-1 Engines. Could go even higher with head porting or shaving. we run an ASA cam. I have LS-1 road race engines. Purpose built race engine The ecu and harnesses are easy. I would not recommend a throttle by wire on a race car. you want the controll with no lag. We have switched to LS-3 for our series. I loved the reliability these engines delivered. Great power. flat curve with a 4 speed.Keep you compression allowing you to run pump gas.
I would just go with dry sump to start. You want to get the engine as low in the car as is safe to not hit the pan. A dry sump will do that for you. get you weight as low as you can it will help you dial in the cars roll center and balance. Lower and as far back as you can.

raam

PM sent, looking forward to your response

-----------------------------

Actually I would not mind building an engine but just do not have the time to do so and really do not like paying for labor as nearly everything I have ever paid to have done ended up being a disaster, even at well regarded shops

99% of what I have done, in the 41 years of modding cars and trucks and bikes and houses....has never given me a problem and if one occurs generally very minor.

Today I am installing a 25.5k 5th wheel hitch in our 2012 Durmax dually, dealer wanted $500 and it is a very simple job, needs to be done as picking up a new 3905 Voltage toyhauler tomorrow.