Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

So I have my trans mounted back up to the car and I made sure I fully seated the converter which showed a measurement of 1 1/16 from bellhousing to converter pad.

When I look through the window on the bellhousing I see this...



I used feeler gauges and it measured out to .283

I have these spacers



and when the spacer is put on I still have this much of a gap...which reads as .245

Should I be using a thicker shim than what I currently have?

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

Your measurement from your belhousing to converter pad seems right. It should be right around 1&1/8.


On the 4l60e you want to have under 3/16ths gap or .187mm. 1/8 is about perfect.

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

Btw sticking a drill bit up in there is a good way to see how far out you are..

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

Yea I only have feeler gauges no drill bits yet lol...after I finish this car I'm gonna start modding the garage lol

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

If I subtract .187 from .283 I get .096 so does that mean I need a shim that is .096 or thicker?

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

This is with a 1/4 drill bit. It's the only bit I have

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

Looks like I need a .125 shim

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

I'd say your right^

mrvedit

If you have calipers, measure the washers to get three as close to the same thickness as possible; both to prevent twisting the flexplate and for balance.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I bought ARP shim washers that are .120. I'll double check them but I know they have tight quality control. They'll be here tomorrow, none of the hardware stores around here had .125 washers for some reason.

At least none I could find...

mrvedit

Perfect - ARP should have tight QC. I just use hardware store Grade 8 washers, but have to measure them. They also only vary between about .08 and .10, never .125.
Glad you are measuring everything carefully.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

Well I don't want to damage my pump, I'm already worried because when I was putting my driveshaft back into the trans I noticed some play on the imput shaft. I'll start saving for a new trans lol

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You should be good with the ARP setup. Good job taking the time to get it right.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

Yup got it all in, I wanted to make sure it was done correctly. I've been driving it around so I can go back and recheck my bolts.

I accidentally put a little too much fluid in and it puked on my garage floor lol. When I added more it showed low but then leaked some. Drove around some more and the leaking stopped.

I just swapped out my MS3 for a F13 and the car feels way better. I can't wait to get tuned for this cam.

I have a shitty 2.73 rear end in right now and I was gonna do a 3.73 swap but after calling around for prices I don't think I want to drop $5-700 on a 10 bolt. Also from what I've read the only thing ill really Gabe is tightening up the stall from a stop.

So next up is a rearend fund lol

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

For $200 in tools you can do the rear end yourself, and learn a little during the process. I started with one and now do them for local guys usually for little to no money bc it is a fun challenge. I've probably done a dozen over the course of a few years. I saved some change on my 12 bolt bc I bought it disassembled. I've also used that experience to venture into doing ATV rear ends too. Knowledge is power brother, see what you're capable of.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I do have a spare 10 bolt that I busted the pinion gear on that I could practice on lol