00 Trans Am aftermarket speaker/sub recommendations
#1
00 Trans Am aftermarket speaker/sub recommendations
So my stock system crapped out on me finally from being cranked up trying to get over the sound of open headers...LOL. I know there's a lot of you that know more about this stuff than I do so please chime in.
I have a double din bezel, and a Pioneer AVHX3500BHS Head Unit. My entire interior is torn out since I'm redoing it, and installing a 8pt roll bar this spring. Also, there will be no rear seats. So basically I will not be retaining use of my hatch speakers, or the rear B pillar speakers. I'm rewiring the entire system from the HU back, so no need to work around stock wiring.
I'm looking for:
-A good front component system that will fit in the factory locations (minus tweeters being moved with 6LE pods)
-A 10" sub in the rear
-An Amp to sub/fronts
I have about a grand left in my interior budget to spend on this stuff so try to keep it in that realm. I don't want to go overboard with some REALLY expensive stuff, but I don't want something thats going to crap out on me from being turned up over the car when I'm cruising lol. Good SQ and good volume.
Thanks!
I have a double din bezel, and a Pioneer AVHX3500BHS Head Unit. My entire interior is torn out since I'm redoing it, and installing a 8pt roll bar this spring. Also, there will be no rear seats. So basically I will not be retaining use of my hatch speakers, or the rear B pillar speakers. I'm rewiring the entire system from the HU back, so no need to work around stock wiring.
I'm looking for:
-A good front component system that will fit in the factory locations (minus tweeters being moved with 6LE pods)
-A 10" sub in the rear
-An Amp to sub/fronts
I have about a grand left in my interior budget to spend on this stuff so try to keep it in that realm. I don't want to go overboard with some REALLY expensive stuff, but I don't want something thats going to crap out on me from being turned up over the car when I'm cruising lol. Good SQ and good volume.
Thanks!
#2
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I am in the process of installing all my components as we speak so I will update this when I get it all fired up. I went with a JL Audio 700/5 XD amp with a JL Audio 10w3 for the sub. Then I have Alpine Type S components for the front and Alpine Type S Coaxial's in the sail area. I am pretty sure I was well under a grand for everything.
#3
Sounds like a plan, I'm still about a month or so out (working 2 jobs sucks for build times LOL) on getting started on mine. Just trying to get a handle on what guys with our style of car like for set ups.
Are you running the OEM head unit or did you swap out to a different one?
Are you running the OEM head unit or did you swap out to a different one?
#4
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oem headunit is awful so def upgrade that. on the other hand, the monsoon amp isnt so bad so you could stick wit that if you like.
also, im selling my stealthbox loaded w/ a 10" image dynamics ctx104 sub for $130 picked up or $145 shipped. im upgrading to a 12" in a fiberglass box im making
also, im selling my stealthbox loaded w/ a 10" image dynamics ctx104 sub for $130 picked up or $145 shipped. im upgrading to a 12" in a fiberglass box im making
#5
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iTrader: (10)
Sounds like a plan, I'm still about a month or so out (working 2 jobs sucks for build times LOL) on getting started on mine. Just trying to get a handle on what guys with our style of car like for set ups.
Are you running the OEM head unit or did you swap out to a different one?
Are you running the OEM head unit or did you swap out to a different one?
#6
#7
So I've decided on these components:
My Pioneer AVHX3500BHS double din head unit.
Kicker CSS674 Components in the front doors.
JL 10W3V3 2 ohm 10" Sub in a sealed box in the rear.
JL 500/3 Amp.
Should have around 75-90 RMS to the front components and 300 RMS to the sub. Not a lot, but it should sound pretty damn good when I'm out cruising or on a road trip to the track. Will update later during the install with pics.
My Pioneer AVHX3500BHS double din head unit.
Kicker CSS674 Components in the front doors.
JL 10W3V3 2 ohm 10" Sub in a sealed box in the rear.
JL 500/3 Amp.
Should have around 75-90 RMS to the front components and 300 RMS to the sub. Not a lot, but it should sound pretty damn good when I'm out cruising or on a road trip to the track. Will update later during the install with pics.
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#8
Problem?
iTrader: (10)
So I've decided on these components:
My Pioneer AVHX3500BHS double din head unit.
Kicker CSS674 Components in the front doors.
JL 10W3V3 2 ohm 10" Sub in a sealed box in the rear.
JL 500/3 Amp.
Should have around 75-90 RMS to the front components and 300 RMS to the sub. Not a lot, but it should sound pretty damn good when I'm out cruising or on a road trip to the track. Will update later during the install with pics.
My Pioneer AVHX3500BHS double din head unit.
Kicker CSS674 Components in the front doors.
JL 10W3V3 2 ohm 10" Sub in a sealed box in the rear.
JL 500/3 Amp.
Should have around 75-90 RMS to the front components and 300 RMS to the sub. Not a lot, but it should sound pretty damn good when I'm out cruising or on a road trip to the track. Will update later during the install with pics.
I would think you will be happy with that. I was going to go with the 500/3 but I got mine on sale after the holidays.
#10
I went with the kicker component system, partially because a friend of mine can get me their stuff for cost lol.
Avaric, do you like the RE audio components? I only just read about them on DoubleD's website.
#11
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So my stock system crapped out on me finally from being cranked up trying to get over the sound of open headers...LOL. I know there's a lot of you that know more about this stuff than I do so please chime in.
I have a double din bezel, and a Pioneer AVHX3500BHS Head Unit. My entire interior is torn out since I'm redoing it, and installing a 8pt roll bar this spring. Also, there will be no rear seats. So basically I will not be retaining use of my hatch speakers, or the rear B pillar speakers. I'm rewiring the entire system from the HU back, so no need to work around stock wiring.
I'm looking for:
-A good front component system that will fit in the factory locations (minus tweeters being moved with 6LE pods)
-A 10" sub in the rear
-An Amp to sub/fronts
I have about a grand left in my interior budget to spend on this stuff so try to keep it in that realm. I don't want to go overboard with some REALLY expensive stuff, but I don't want something thats going to crap out on me from being turned up over the car when I'm cruising lol. Good SQ and good volume.
Thanks!
I have a double din bezel, and a Pioneer AVHX3500BHS Head Unit. My entire interior is torn out since I'm redoing it, and installing a 8pt roll bar this spring. Also, there will be no rear seats. So basically I will not be retaining use of my hatch speakers, or the rear B pillar speakers. I'm rewiring the entire system from the HU back, so no need to work around stock wiring.
I'm looking for:
-A good front component system that will fit in the factory locations (minus tweeters being moved with 6LE pods)
-A 10" sub in the rear
-An Amp to sub/fronts
I have about a grand left in my interior budget to spend on this stuff so try to keep it in that realm. I don't want to go overboard with some REALLY expensive stuff, but I don't want something thats going to crap out on me from being turned up over the car when I'm cruising lol. Good SQ and good volume.
Thanks!
10" Kenwood Exceleon sound amazing.
I'd say Infinity Kappas
and Kenwood amp... its the set up I'm goind with but its gonna be about $4000.
#12
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You could replicate my system for the price range your in:
Polk Audio DB6501 component in the front door $107 on Amazon
SSL CP64 in the sail panels $20 each on Amazon (cheaper by the pair at VMinnovations)
2x Planet BB212D 12" subs $220 FOR THE PAIR on VMinnovations
Autotek M2500.1D amp for the Subs $150 at Amazon when I bought it
thats only $520 not counting box and wiring, say another 100 for a 4 channel to push the regular speakers and another 200 for 0 Gauge wiring, distribution block, 4 gauge from distro to amps and all speaker wiring then another 50 for materials to build a box and your still under 900 and since your not gonna have a rear seat you can do what I did, LOL.
Polk Audio DB6501 component in the front door $107 on Amazon
SSL CP64 in the sail panels $20 each on Amazon (cheaper by the pair at VMinnovations)
2x Planet BB212D 12" subs $220 FOR THE PAIR on VMinnovations
Autotek M2500.1D amp for the Subs $150 at Amazon when I bought it
thats only $520 not counting box and wiring, say another 100 for a 4 channel to push the regular speakers and another 200 for 0 Gauge wiring, distribution block, 4 gauge from distro to amps and all speaker wiring then another 50 for materials to build a box and your still under 900 and since your not gonna have a rear seat you can do what I did, LOL.
#15
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IMO, this would be a nice setup for the money!
Just in case you change your mind.
Polk Audio, MM6501 (about $220) 125 watts rms, 40-25,000 Hz, 94 dB @ 1watt-meter.
US Amps, XT-800.2(about$340 for 2) 100 watts rms x 2 @ 4ohms(door speakers), 520 watts rms x 1 @ 4ohms (subwoofer).
Alpine, SWR-1023D, 600 watts rms (about$130)
Total:$690
Just in case you change your mind.
Polk Audio, MM6501 (about $220) 125 watts rms, 40-25,000 Hz, 94 dB @ 1watt-meter.
US Amps, XT-800.2(about$340 for 2) 100 watts rms x 2 @ 4ohms(door speakers), 520 watts rms x 1 @ 4ohms (subwoofer).
Alpine, SWR-1023D, 600 watts rms (about$130)
Total:$690
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 03-31-2013 at 09:36 PM.
#16
I am in the process of installing all my components as we speak so I will update this when I get it all fired up. I went with a JL Audio 700/5 XD amp with a JL Audio 10w3 for the sub. Then I have Alpine Type S components for the front and Alpine Type S Coaxial's in the sail area. I am pretty sure I was well under a grand for everything.