Cerridius

Hey guys I got my car dynoed today, mainly to see what my A/F ratio was.

Best numbers were 334rwhp and 293torque, but the dynos wideband said my A/F ratio was 10:1

I emailed my tuner and he said the dynos wideband is wrong and that there is no way my A/F is 10:1

Soooo, I'm going to get my A/F tested again through a friends wideband before I do anything else to the tune.

Cars best time at the track is 8.3 at 82mph

awww gawd!!! I rotated it in the photobucket but it keeps loading upside down.

it says 320hp and 294torque with 10:1 AF


Thought I had a sig. Here is a mod list. Probably more than needed.
Engine/exhaust mods:
K&N Cold Air Intake and airfoil
Vortech LT1 Elbow
Ported intake
Ported heads
2.00 1.56 valves guideplates and bronze valve guides
CC503 cam
1.6 rockers Comp Cam
160degree thermostat
1pc hardened pushrods
LS6 lifters
36lb injectors
8.5mm OTVC MSD Spark plug wires with protective boots
Pacesetter LTs with ORY pipe
Magnaflow catback exhaust with cutout
Corsa clone tips

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

When O2 sensors degrade or fail, they indicate a leaner than the actual air/fuel ratio. Not richer. You should be seeing some black exhaust smoke @ WOT with a 10-1 WOT air/fuel ratio.

Cerridius

I have some brand new o2 sensors in there. And I did have quite a bit of smoke coming out. Black and some blue

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

The O2 sensor I'm talking about is the wide band O2 sensor giving your air/fuel ratio.

Cerridius

Oh, so your talking about the dyno wideband they used.

Well I'm gonna have someone else check my A/F to be sure since the person (madz28) that tuned my car said that there is no way my car should be that rich.

stngh8r

What software are tuners using these days? I have been out of the lt1 loop for several years. It seems with the ls1's most have went away from "edit" and moved to HP or efi live.

I agree with Mr. Wright on the black smoke. Keep us updated on what you find out.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

If it is smoking black, it is that rich. Might want to take a scan tool to see what the PCM sees for coolant temp, and intake air temp. Bad connection= -40 deg, which = excessively rich. As in black smoke rich.
Good luck.

Cerridius

Ok I'll try this out

Cerridius

Ok Ed Wright, I hooked it up to a freescan thing but I have no idea how to read it. I think my sensors are ok though unless you can tell anything.

jasonz28camaro

iTrader: (13)

Mine went from 11:7 to 10:1 from me just taking my injectors out and back on the car, didn't even move their locations on the rails. Strange things can happen.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

If it's 32 degrees where you are, and the car had not run long, it appears to be OK. I like to just turn the key on after one has been sitting over night, it at least 6 or 8 hours so it is dead cold. Then scan it, key on, eng off MAT & coolant should both read ambient. 32 deg where the car is sitting, both should be very close to 32. Then warm it up until the first fan comes on, to verify the coolant temp sensor is not stuck cold. If it won't come up normally, the fans won't come on and it will run too rich @ WOT.
Might pull the vacuum hose off your fuel pressure regulator to make sure no fuel comes out.
Also, make certain the little arrow on your MAF is pointing toward the TB. I saw an "expert" here post once that it would measure air flow the same in either direction. Like most, he was full of ****. It will report higher if in backwards. Seen that too many times. Not 10-1 rich, but richer. Would not hurt to check it.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Just noticed, high BLMs will make it richer @ WOT.
Looks like an issue right there. Probably still not 10-1, but wrong.
That can be addressed in the tuning.

Cerridius

Ok I wasnt able to test hook it up to the computer this morning to check the temp sensors because I had to go to work. The stuff is also in Celsius for some reason. I'll try and check them when I get back and let the car cool for a while

But I did check the FPR, pulled the vacuum line and no fuel came out. Also I
Verified the MAF is in correctly, which it is, arrow is pointing at TB.

So I can't do nothing to the BLMs? That has to be tuned?


And I don't believe the car ran this rich till after I took the engine apart, and back together and got a tune from Madz28. Can rocker arms that are adjusted wrong cause this?

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, you can try bringing the BLMs in line by turning the fuel pressure up, but that won't help your WOT air/fuel problem. Mis-adjusted rockers, I don't see that as the problem.

Cerridius

I don't it's just a stock FPR. I was just wondering about the rockers. I adjusted
Them with the car on so they are probably as good as they will get.


So do you think that my problem is most likely in the tune?

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

If your MAF shows 7 or 8 grams per second at idle, fuel pressure is 45 to 47 with the vacuum hose off, I would guess so.

Cerridius

What should i check next Ed?

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Might want to talk to your tuner. I'm out of ideas.

Cerridius

Ok, I'll just check my A/F again some how and email madz28 again.

Also if I put my hand infront of my exhaust tip I get black spot all over my hand and some liquid, which I assume is fuel.

Anyway, thanks for the help though Ed! I'll update this with anymore details I get.

Cerridius

Ok, I had my cars A/F ratio check again through a friends wideband, and it says im more around 12:1, so I think the shops wideband was messed up or something. Good thing I didnt tune from that.