V runs hotter with new rad.
03-25-2013, 07:10 PM
#1
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V runs hotter with new rad. So Ive had my V for a couple of months. When I bought it the stock rad didnt leak. Well I drive it like it should be and the high rpms started to make the stock rad leak.
I had to replace the HB so replacing the rad that had to come out anyways was a no brainer. I replaced it with a stock rad from rock auto. Car is stock so I saw no reason to spend $500 on the alrad. Well I replaced it and the car used to run at 195*-199*. And now its up at 208-112*.
I filled it with a gallon of straight dexcool and a little over a gallon of distilled. Figured with all the straight water I had been adding for weeks to top it off. It would work out to a good ratio. The only thing I didnt install was the flaps that were pinned to the side of the old rad as the broke tryi g to remove them. Is the reason of the higher temp going down the road?? The cold level is correct in the expansion tank.
I have a 180* thermostat on the way. .
Does anybody know the part number to replace the side flaps on the rad and the plastic pins to hold them on.
Could it be something else?
I had to replace the HB so replacing the rad that had to come out anyways was a no brainer. I replaced it with a stock rad from rock auto. Car is stock so I saw no reason to spend $500 on the alrad. Well I replaced it and the car used to run at 195*-199*. And now its up at 208-112*.
I filled it with a gallon of straight dexcool and a little over a gallon of distilled. Figured with all the straight water I had been adding for weeks to top it off. It would work out to a good ratio. The only thing I didnt install was the flaps that were pinned to the side of the old rad as the broke tryi g to remove them. Is the reason of the higher temp going down the road?? The cold level is correct in the expansion tank.
I have a 180* thermostat on the way. .
Does anybody know the part number to replace the side flaps on the rad and the plastic pins to hold them on.
Could it be something else?
03-25-2013, 07:41 PM
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I dont think so. Its been over a week. Many heat cycles and i filled slowly and kept adding when it drained down below fill level. I read theres no bleed screw like i have on my lt1.
So if there is air how do you bleed it out?
So if there is air how do you bleed it out?
03-25-2013, 08:54 PM
#6
The flaps direct air through the rad. I left them out too, when i replaced my rad. While i did not experience an increase in temps, each car and build is different. Removing them could very well account it what is a small increase in running temp.
Last edited by DACTARI; 03-25-2013 at 09:52 PM.
03-25-2013, 09:03 PM
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Dactari. Yes it is only a small amount. Thats why I figured it may be the difference. 10-15* isnt much but i still dont like it being over 200*. I live in florida and its only been in the 60''s. so im worried about when its in the 90's and higher come agust.
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03-27-2013, 09:35 PM
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if you dont like it when it gets over 200*...then be ready when you are sitting in traffic and its at 225-235*. you can get it retuned to turn the fans on earlier (lower temp).
03-27-2013, 10:05 PM
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They messed up my order on my T stat and sent me a 160* when I ordered a 180*. Its my daily so I wanna have some kinda heat next winter in it. So Im waiting on a new t stat but wont do that til I get ready to order headers and MM. Then Ill get it all tuned at once.
03-27-2013, 10:32 PM
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Yup. popped the hood the other day when i got home. they seemed to be coming on and off with the a/c compressor cycling. I know the V's run hot. I guess Ill just keep an eye on the temp till I get the 180* stat in and get the fans tuned for it
03-28-2013, 11:45 AM
#13
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I would look into fabbing up new side flaps for the radiator. These systems are highly optimized for cooling and a/c performance.
Would you take the brake duct tube out of the fascia and just let the air find its way to the brakes? No. Same goes for the cooling module.
You'll find that these flaps around the cooling module prevent a significant amount of hot engine air from re-circulating back through the radiator/condenser increasing performance of the system at idle, slow and high speeds.
Would you take the brake duct tube out of the fascia and just let the air find its way to the brakes? No. Same goes for the cooling module.
You'll find that these flaps around the cooling module prevent a significant amount of hot engine air from re-circulating back through the radiator/condenser increasing performance of the system at idle, slow and high speeds.
03-28-2013, 07:08 PM
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Ive always kind of looked at things like this. If GM could have saved a penny per car by not putting something on it, then they would have deleted it.
The flaps broke and tore into a few pieces when I tried to pull them off the old rad.
Would anybody know any part numbers for the left and right side flaps?
Should I just call up to Lindsey or check rockauto?
The flaps broke and tore into a few pieces when I tried to pull them off the old rad.
Would anybody know any part numbers for the left and right side flaps?
Should I just call up to Lindsey or check rockauto?
03-28-2013, 08:37 PM
#15
Forget the flaps, man, the benefit is marginal at best. Like I said, it didn't make a difference for me. There are so many variables at play-- it could be a manufacturing difference in the radiator, your coolant may be too rich, te weather is different etc.
IMHO, play with your water:coolant ratio (more water), and see what happens. If you're still running hotter than you'd like, go with the 160 stat.
IMHO, play with your water:coolant ratio (more water), and see what happens. If you're still running hotter than you'd like, go with the 160 stat.
03-29-2013, 09:32 AM
#16
These cars run hot, it's just the way they are. I have a brand-new 180* thermostat, ALRADCO radiator and live in Utah (aka, it's still pretty cool here) and my car reaches 220-ish pretty regularly around town. The fans kick on and the whole thing cools off, even idling, in a couple minutes.
FWIW, operating temperature on these is somewhere above 215?
If it's concerning, you can always do like a 70-30 Water/Dex mix, and make sure your air is bled out. Beyond that, tuning your fans to come on earlier and getting a cooler t-stat should keep the overall temps lower.
Oh, and when your new radiator breaks, just get an ALRADCO.
FWIW, operating temperature on these is somewhere above 215?
If it's concerning, you can always do like a 70-30 Water/Dex mix, and make sure your air is bled out. Beyond that, tuning your fans to come on earlier and getting a cooler t-stat should keep the overall temps lower.
Oh, and when your new radiator breaks, just get an ALRADCO.