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Old 03-26-2013, 11:17 PM
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Default What to do next?

So all of my mods are listed below, but I still want to get as much out of my car as I can before camming/supercharging it (little out of my budget at the moment). Any ideas of some small stuff I should do like maybe a new mass airflow sensor or something? Thanks!
Old 03-26-2013, 11:20 PM
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Underdrive pulley, ported throttle, and LS6 intake maybe
Old 03-26-2013, 11:27 PM
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I was actually looking at a ported throttle body.. but my car comes stock with the ls6 intake. Would I notice any difference with a PTB?
Old 03-27-2013, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by z28SSilvest
I was actually looking at a ported throttle body.. but my car comes stock with the ls6 intake. Would I notice any difference with a PTB?
A ported tb and ud pulley. You probably wont notice much at all. Fast 92 would be a decent gain. Where was your car dynoed? Thats the highest I have ever seen for your mods.
Old 03-27-2013, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeWS6
A ported tb and ud pulley. You probably wont notice much at all. Fast 92 would be a decent gain. Where was your car dynoed? Thats the highest I have ever seen for your mods.
Race Proven Motorsports in Wilmington Delaware! HP tuned
Old 03-27-2013, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by z28SSilvest
Race Proven Motorsports in Wilmington Delaware! HP tuned
I agree those are some really generous numbers for a full exhaust, lid and tune ls1
Old 03-27-2013, 01:42 AM
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I mean it was done on a dynojet..
Old 03-27-2013, 01:53 AM
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The cheapest would be a ported throttle body with the bump stop mod by someone who knows what they're doing. Yes it will help & will actually allow your throttle body to open 100% instead of the current 85- 90%. Plus the porting does increase airflow. Plenty of sponsors that offer this with an exchange. You'll have to pay a core charge & will receive a refund once your working core is received. Or you could look in the classifieds as they pop up now and then. Being an M6 really your next mod would be a cam. I'd say get gears but the rear end won't last. This is where an auto has a big advantage over an m6 in that they can be bolt ons with a large lock up stall converter & the highway mileage is unchanged but a half a second drop in ETs are evident.

You could always focus on suspension. Depending if you drag race or like corner carving. If you can't hook with what you have now then there's no need to add any more HP. Start with subframe connectors, rear lower control arms w/ relocation brackets, then torque arm & so on.
Old 03-27-2013, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Hamrdown
The cheapest would be a ported throttle body with the bump stop mod by someone who knows what they're doing. Yes it will help & will actually allow your throttle body to open 100% instead of the current 85- 90%. Plus the porting does increase airflow. Plenty of sponsors that offer this with an exchange. You'll have to pay a core charge & will receive a refund once your working core is received. Or you could look in the classifieds as they pop up now and then. Being an M6 really your next mod would be a cam. I'd say get gears but the rear end won't last. This is where an auto has a big advantage over an m6 in that they can be bolt ons with a large lock up stall converter & the highway mileage is unchanged but a half a second drop in ETs are evident.

You could always focus on suspension. Depending if you drag race or like corner carving. If you can't hook with what you have now then there's no need to add any more HP. Start with subframe connectors, rear lower control arms w/ relocation brackets, then torque arm & so on.
I like this because I literally spin through 3rd and it gets on my nerves. Maybe dropping the car and adding a new torque arm with sway bars might help that out. Im not the smartest when it comes to suspension stuff lol.
Old 03-27-2013, 03:18 AM
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Lowering it & stiffer away bars help with cornering but won't help traction in a straight line much. Rear lower control arms with LCA relocation brackets are the 1st step, then poly trans & torque arm bushings next. If traction is still an issue (depending on tires) then upgrade to a better torque arm with a relocation bracket so it's not on the transmission tail housing. In all honesty when I was running bolt ons with a stall (auto) I only had LCA & relocation brackets, poly trans & TA bushing & adjustable rear shocks (KYB) & I could yank the front tires with slicks at the track a couple of inches....and that was just bolt ons & full weight car. Start with suspension. Once that's taken care of then up the HP & when you lose traction then go back and get more suspension stuff. Or maybe a simple switch to drag radials is what you need..Spinning aint winning
Old 03-27-2013, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by z28SSilvest
Race Proven Motorsports in Wilmington Delaware! HP tuned
Cool. I would just save up for a heads/cam kit since you have the basic bolt ons covered. I wish I did everything at once. I would have saved alot of money.
Old 03-27-2013, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeWS6
Cool. I would just save up for a heads/cam kit since you have the basic bolt ons covered. I wish I did everything at once. I would have saved alot of money.
That's what I was actually thinking of.. I was also looking at 36# injectors for my car since I have so many air upgrades, I need to get some fuel upgrades in there.
Old 03-27-2013, 12:53 PM
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numbers look right to me..... I prob would be right there with him if I had the LS6 intake.
Old 03-27-2013, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Blownbayou
numbers look right to me..... I prob would be right there with him if I had the LS6 intake.
Does the ls6 intake really make that much of a difference?
Old 03-27-2013, 01:22 PM
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You won't need any fuel upgrades until you put heads and cam in. Even cam only will work with stock fuel injectors unless its a monster race only cam spinning past 7,000rpm.
Old 03-27-2013, 01:34 PM
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Id save for a rear and heads/cam. that way you can have power and throw a good tire on to get the power to the ground and not have to worry about grenading your 10 bolt.
Old 03-27-2013, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Hamrdown
You won't need any fuel upgrades until you put heads and cam in. Even cam only will work with stock fuel injectors unless its a monster race only cam spinning past 7,000rpm.
Gotcha dude. So Im glad i didnt buy the 36# injectors yet because that would have been a waste. Ill just save up for a mild cam



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