Koni, BMR, Brakemotive Install
03-29-2013, 07:01 PM
#1
Koni, BMR, Brakemotive Install So, I've been doing a few things to the T/A over the last month; on and off and on the weekend (thanks work). I figured I'd do a pseudo write up / review of the parts. I don't take many pics while working, but here ya go.
Koni 4/4
Like any F-body owner, I wanted better handling, but due to my long tubes and catted y, I really didn't want to sacrifice much ground clearance so I went with Koni's on the lower perch up front and the heater hose mod out back (stock springs all around).
Rear
There was no way the 1/2" hose was going on these; so back to Napa where I got some 5/8" and it worked perfect.
Front
First off, I would like to congratulate Koni for the award of "worst instructions/manual in the history of anything ever produced".
Now that that is out of the way, the removal of stock parts was pretty straight forward. I didn't have any of the rusted bolts and shock nuts that seem to plaque the northerners. I did make a mistake in buying a cheapo spring compressor from harbor freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/macpher...-set-3980.html) …complete ****, so I rented the standard spring compressor from Autozone which worked much better. (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=555557_0_0_)
I did order new Moog upper strut mounts for the ol peace of mind factor.
Impressions - I have the settings on the starter settings that BMR recommends. I haven't driven it much yet, but so far, it's much stiffer, and takes turns much better. More to follow on this...
Brakes
-Brakemotive rotors
-Hawk HPS pads
-Russell Brake Lines
I got on the Brakemotive rotor and pads deal about 2 years ago, and figured now would be a good time to get everything switched out. I didn't use the pads that came with the rotors; I opted for the well reviewed Hawk HPS pads. This project turned out to be a nightmare; no fault of the parts. Long story short, some powder coating problems prompted me to get new front calipers and I sprayed them with a Hi-temp semi-gloss black paint. (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=112)
Fronts
Rear
Based on another thread here, I made this Motive brake bleeder look-a-like which works flawlessly as a one-man bleeder. I flushed the entire system with Valvoline Synthetic Dot 3/4
Stock and Russell Brake lines
Impressions - Stops on a dime now…..really nothing else to say, lol. Time will tell on the durability of the paint.
BMR Panhard Bar
Installations was straightforward. This thing is MUCH beefier than the twig-like stock piece.
Bump stops
My stockers were trashed, and brake fluid from the brake switch-out just disintegrated these things. I bought the jeep bump stops from amazon. They look like they belong on our cars.
Here is how she sat on stock suspension. Updated photos to follow after a detail.
Koni 4/4
Like any F-body owner, I wanted better handling, but due to my long tubes and catted y, I really didn't want to sacrifice much ground clearance so I went with Koni's on the lower perch up front and the heater hose mod out back (stock springs all around).
Rear
There was no way the 1/2" hose was going on these; so back to Napa where I got some 5/8" and it worked perfect.
Front
First off, I would like to congratulate Koni for the award of "worst instructions/manual in the history of anything ever produced".
Now that that is out of the way, the removal of stock parts was pretty straight forward. I didn't have any of the rusted bolts and shock nuts that seem to plaque the northerners. I did make a mistake in buying a cheapo spring compressor from harbor freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/macpher...-set-3980.html) …complete ****, so I rented the standard spring compressor from Autozone which worked much better. (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=555557_0_0_)I did order new Moog upper strut mounts for the ol peace of mind factor.
Impressions - I have the settings on the starter settings that BMR recommends. I haven't driven it much yet, but so far, it's much stiffer, and takes turns much better. More to follow on this...
Brakes
-Brakemotive rotors
-Hawk HPS pads
-Russell Brake Lines
I got on the Brakemotive rotor and pads deal about 2 years ago, and figured now would be a good time to get everything switched out. I didn't use the pads that came with the rotors; I opted for the well reviewed Hawk HPS pads. This project turned out to be a nightmare; no fault of the parts. Long story short, some powder coating problems prompted me to get new front calipers and I sprayed them with a Hi-temp semi-gloss black paint. (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=112)
Fronts
Rear
Based on another thread here, I made this Motive brake bleeder look-a-like which works flawlessly as a one-man bleeder. I flushed the entire system with Valvoline Synthetic Dot 3/4
Stock and Russell Brake lines
Impressions - Stops on a dime now…..really nothing else to say, lol. Time will tell on the durability of the paint.
BMR Panhard Bar
Installations was straightforward. This thing is MUCH beefier than the twig-like stock piece.
Bump stops
My stockers were trashed, and brake fluid from the brake switch-out just disintegrated these things. I bought the jeep bump stops from amazon. They look like they belong on our cars.
Here is how she sat on stock suspension. Updated photos to follow after a detail.
03-29-2013, 07:23 PM
#2
Launching!
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Nice work. I'm in the same boat where a simple install take a month due to no time to work on it. My konis are in and I'm close to finishing other things.... So anxious to see how it sits.
Anxious to see your final pics with the front at the lower perch position. Are you on stock springs or eibachs?
Anxious to see your final pics with the front at the lower perch position. Are you on stock springs or eibachs?
03-29-2013, 10:40 PM
#4
First off, I would like to congratulate Koni for the award of "worst instructions/manual in the history of anything ever produced".
I could not believe how terrible these things were. Egyptian hieroglyphics are more easily deciphered. If someone can take those instructions and translate them into human speak then post it, it would be a sticky tomorrow.
03-30-2013, 07:05 AM
#7
No prob folks. This is actually the first "how-to / tips" thread I made. I've learned so much from this site; it's only right that I give back a little bit. As I think of more things that pissed me off or helped me, I'll edit the OP.
BMR, if you're reading this, I think it would be a great idea for you guys to make your own F-body specific instructions for Koni's and include them with your sales. I read in other threads that you're doing record sales of these VERY high prices shocks. This would be a great way to say thanks to folks spending two weeks pay on a product you sell.
BMR, if you're reading this, I think it would be a great idea for you guys to make your own F-body specific instructions for Koni's and include them with your sales. I read in other threads that you're doing record sales of these VERY high prices shocks. This would be a great way to say thanks to folks spending two weeks pay on a product you sell.
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03-31-2013, 04:13 PM
#8
So, I've gotten some seat time in the car, and it takes turns much better. I'm much more confident in it's handling ability. I did the lower perch up front and the hose mod in the back and the rear sits lower than the front (reverse rake). I also notice that it kind of wants to wander on the road a bit. I find myself having the make steering adjustments and always having to "control" the wheel. Now, you always control the wheel, but I know you guys know what I mean. Maybe the fact that it's higher up front is causing some of this?
03-31-2013, 04:29 PM
#10
I got it aligned Friday as soon as I finished the install. These issues are post-alignment. I did notice that my lower a-arm bushings were dried and cracked up on the fronts. Maybe this is causing my issues...
03-31-2013, 08:15 PM
#11
TECH Fanatic
04-02-2013, 10:16 PM
#18
On The Tree
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I'd give it a week or so of driving to see if it settles down some more. I know when I've pulled the stock fronts off of my car and re-installed, it took a few days of casual driving to get back down to normal height.
