unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

okay guys got a built lt1

as follows

230/242 .510 113 ls
Je nitrous pistons
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers w/7/16" studs
Comp Cams 987 Dual Valve Springs
SI Silverline Series Valves,(2.00" intake and 1.97 Exhaust)
Eagle H beem connecting rods
Crane Hardened Push Rods

with stock crank

i kno it will handle more than i wana hit it with


but i really dont wana go over 125 hp shot

which kit is the best wet or dry??????????????????????????????


and it seems like the zex is the simiplest is that true whats ur thoughts guys and what else would i need?

the main thing is it dry or wet thats best

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

got fms 30lb injectors and stock pump

i hooked a gauge up at idle im at 38 psi

is that okay or not for the fuel

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Well if you already have injectors and don't feel like buying new ones, wet would be the cheaper route. Better is pretty subjective and people will argue for either side.

Main thing with a wet is you're trying to flow fuel through an intake not designed to flow fuel and "can" cause an issue with an n2o backfire. Since the intake is aluminum this isn't as much of a concern as composite intake vehicles. With an LT1 typically the most common damage from an n2o backfire is blowing off a filter and a damaged MAF. But, with a wet shot you don't need to rely on the injectors to add fuel for the nitrous shot, so smaller injectors can be used in a wet setup than a dry, instead it relies on a fuel line either plumbed to a shark nozzle or plate. A typical LT1 dry kit like the one I had which was an NOS brand kit relied on a vacuum line feeding to the FPR to regulate the amount of fuel added with a jet inline.

IIRC for fuel pressure anywhere from 37-41psi at idle is considered acceptable, while 43~ psi is the ideal number at WOT, this is with a stock or relatively stock car. My 383 with H/C had around these numbers as well though. For a H/C car WITH n2o, you'll want to step up to a 255lph pump or more.

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

u think i need bigger ones or what?

what do u feel bout the fuel pressure?

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

The biggest determiner of what injectors you need will be scanning the pcm and seeing what duty cycle they are at under WOT. IMO 30# injectors are fine for a relatively mild n/a car, they're what I have in mine and my duty cycle is fine. If you want to hit it with a dry shot, you will likely need to step up the injector size though.

Fuel pressure seems ok to me as well but like the injectors, it needs to be tested at WOT to make sure the pressure isn't bleeding down.

F0x Slaughter

Wet is much more forgiving.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Depends on what you mean by forgiving.

F0x Slaughter

Tune can be off more so than on a dry shot. A dry shot is relying on your injectors to provide the extra fuel, where as a wet shot has its own fuel supply.

Also I would not run a stock fuel pump on any shot.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

You wouldn't want to run any shot really on a stock pump, both have high fuel demands that a stock pump was not designed for.

As for the tune, plenty of people run untuned dry shots with zero issue, myself being one of them who formerly did. Ran a maxed out powershot solenoid dry shot on a bolt on car with a stock tune outside of the injectors being set to 30#. Know tons of other LS and LT cars who did the same or similar. Regardless though he has a H/C 355, he shouldn't be untuned regardless of whether he wants to hit it with n2o so it's a moot point.

Like I previously mentioned a wet shot has the risk of fuel puddling since the intake was not designed to flow fuel, only air. Also since this is the case, unequal fuel distribution to all cylinders can be an issue. Since a dry shot uses the factory fuel system to add fuel, it will provide a theoretically more equal distribution of fuel.

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

so upgrade fuel pump but what u saying to go with more dry or wet i want the safest


what bout the zex does it control any of that

F0x Slaughter

I edited my post about the fuel pump.
I just put in a Racetronix 255 with hotwire. Pretty easy if you know how to repin connectors.

Okay heres how it work.

Dry Shot: Sprays only nitrous. It uses your injectors to add the extra fuel needed.

Wet Shot: Has nitrous and fuel noids, sprays the extra fuel with the nitrous.

Also yes a stock tune would work as cars are tuned on the slightly richer side from the factory specially at WOT. WOT for a LT1 is generally around 11.5 which is extremely rich. So its already dumping extra fuel thats not needed, then drop in some 30lbs injectors now you are really dumping extra fuel.

Also heard that Zex box really doesn't do much.
Think about it, the injectors are controlled by the PCM, so in order to control the injectors you need to piggy back or standalone the PCM.

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

ya too much fuel something will explode lol

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

wondering if its worth the chance i feel the motor can handle it but its not as easy as ppl say it is to use nos

Bomber Z

I like it wet.

F0x Slaughter

Guys have run 200 shot on a stock bottom end, just need a spot on tune.

It will hold 100 all day, long as you have a decent tune.

TravisMcGill2000

iTrader: (2)

Go with a wet kit. Make sure you get a 255 pump, run a colder nonprojected tip plug, and pull some timing. Youll be plenty safe. Youll get bored with a 125 shot and be wantin more. It always happens lol.

F0x Slaughter

Agreed. Drop a 255 in, hotwire it while you're at it. Get yourself some BR7EF plugs. General rule is 2* for ever 50 shot. Some have gotten away with 100 shot with no timing pull, why risk it though.

Or just hook up a Reddi Whip can to your intake.

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

ya thtll be the problem itll start at 100 then ull go till u hurt something lol

Bomber Z

Agreed too!!! The Reddi Whip that cracked me up!!!

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Yes forgot about the colder plug. I ran NGK TR6 plugs btw.