obie86

I have been reading and searching for awhile on the topic. I see that a lot of guys run the b&m 264. Then i have read that it is to small for a high stall. What do you guys recommend for a 4000+ stall? I would like to stay with the plate style cooler because from what I have read it cools the best. I will also be using the "stock tranny cooler" because I live in Missouri so im sure the car will see some cooler weather once in awhile. I would also like to buy a cooler that comes in a kit so I dont have to rumage around trying to find parts to install it. If you guys could post up some links or pm some links I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Chris

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

That cooler will be fine as long as its in a good location. Imo you should bypass the stock cooler, I'm in ct and I do and I'm sure it's just as cold if not colder up here and Iv never had any problems. Just let the car warm up for a minute on a cooler day.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

I agree with mjs1012. I take my car out 40f and above in winter occasionaly. I have that same cooler bypassing the stock cooler. Start up trans temps are sometimes 32f give or take after sitting all night in winter so I let it warm up till 40f or so before driving. I wont beat on the car until trans temps get above 100f. I just moved my trans cooler again yesterday to dope style. I put my ac back in

obie86

Thanks for the great input guys. Any reason why the both of you would bypass the stock cooler? This seems to always be debated. Another question for you guys. How are you all watching your trans temp? Aftermarket Guage inside the car or some kind of handheld unit plugged into the cars computer? I also got a deep pan on order to help aid in heat reduction.

LS-ONE_DAY

Bypassing the stock cooler usually keeps temps cooler. Running it through both will actually heat up the fluid a little bit more, the trade off is that in cold climates running through both can be preferred to avoid "over-cooling", basically just having the transmission not get up to operating temperature, or taking a long time to do so. Trans temp can be watched via traditional trans temp gauge, although this may require welding a bung for the sensor or there is another method, I can't remember what it is off the top of my head but it isn't preferred because of side-effects, some people claim it damages something, others do it fine. I, along with many others, opted for an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge. It plugs into the OBDII port and you can select several parameters to keep track of out of about 80 parameters it can see so it's like 80 gauges in 1. I think it's about $230, just get an autometer gauge pod to mount it. Deep pan isn't really necessary, if you want one a used truck pan is pretty cheap.

As far as coolers go, 264 will work, but the rule of thumb is bigger the better.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

All 3 of us are all watching temps via that aeroforce gauge. It's a funny chain...senicalj recommended it to me and I reccomended it to LS-One_Day lol.

I bypass the stock cooler so I don't risk getting coolant in my trans lines if my radiator takes a dump and from personal experience, I had the stock cooler going into the 70264 and once it got to 190 or so temps never really went down.

LS-ONE_DAY

Quick tangent, you guys should probably tell how you mounted the gauge in the car too. Mine's not permanently installed yet lol. I need to add another coat of paint to the black plastic autometer pod and then drill the A-pillar and screw the pod in. Hopefully it works out alright or I'll have to buy a new pillar...and I think I'll have to break off one of the plastic defroster fins too to run the wire.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

All i did was pop the pillar out and run the small part that goes into the gauge though the defroster space (didnt have to cut) and then drilled the pod and mounted it all together.

SuperSlow02

iTrader: (16)

Where in MO do you live?

obie86

Okay so you guys have me talked into bypassing the stock cooler. I guess my plan is to try the 264 and see how it does and if I need a different cooler then i'll buy one. I got the deep pan for the dirt. I guess I must live under a rock because I had no clue that there was such a gauge haha. I will def. be checking into this gauge more. So you all just mount that one gauge on the A-pillar? That doesn't look goofy? You all must be running more gauges but it seems that one gauge is all you need.. Just curious on yours guys' setup

obie86

Looks like i'll probably be getting one of them too. So put me on the recommended list lol.

I appreciate your advice a lot. Nothing like learning new stuff!

obie86

Sedalia

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

aeroforce gauge kicks ***. Iv had mine for 3 years I should post a pic one day lol

obie86

I think you should!

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

B&M said to run it to your radiator first and then their cooler.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

I currently run a big tube and fin style cooler that works well. the reason i went with this is because I am moron and had the b&m in a bad spot and never moved it.

here is the one im running for now and temps are usually good. even if the temps go up after beating on the car, they'll go down rather quickly.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-3820/overview/

I have just the aeroforce gauge in a single pod for now but I might go with a 3 pillar son with a fuel psi and wideband. Ill get a pic for you next time Im in my car if youd like.

obie86

Yeah if you don't mind that would be awesome. Did youhave to buy any additional sensors for your gauge?

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

Nope just plug it into the obd 2 port. You can get fuel psi, oil psi, and afr but those require additional sensors.

Heyfred

iTrader: (10)

Here is the trans cooler I run and temps stay at 165 to 170 when running hard at the strip.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/de...0/media/images
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15132871-post148.html

Trans temp guage:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...r-build-8.html