Isaacs

iTrader: (1)

Any techs do their own alignment?(on a alignment rack of course) I'm wondering if I can adjust the rear camber and not affect the toe settings? Is each adjustment independent from the other. I'd like to play with settings at the track by taking a turn or two out at a time. Thanks

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Don't do your own alignment. Get it done professionally. It's less than $100.

Isaacs

iTrader: (1)

Lol.. oh come on, don't be THAT guy . If there is a way to play with some settings during a trackday to see what feels better I'm all for it. I don't see the need to shell out $100 to make a minor adjustment if I can turn a few wrenches and not **** everything else up. Hence why I'm asking, if anyone here has actually turned the wrenches and made the adjustments while looking at the numbers. If it can't be accomplished then yes, i'll pay the money and let the pros handle it. Thanks.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

In order to get accurate measurements, you need a rig. No shop that I know of will let you do it yourself for insurance purposes. The tool used to adjust caster is expensive, as well.

Isaacs

iTrader: (1)

This is true...however camber is fairly easy measure and I'm not looking for a number. If I can make small adjustments to the rear camber without upsetting the toe or thrust Angle is all I need to know(if each adjuster is independent from the other). I can't remember what the adjusters look like and don't have my car handy

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Camber and caster are related. If you want a lot of caster, you'll have to give up camber, and vice versa.

Isaacs

iTrader: (1)

Talking about rear suspension here...there is no Caster adjustment

Fiveliterbtr

How would you adjust camber or toe at the tire on a solid axle vehicle? I could see how toe could be adjusted together with adjustable control arms...but without looking up what craziness is made for our rear suspensions, I can't fathom how camber would be adjustable.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

The camber adjustment is not something that can be easily done at the track. The lower control arm bolts to the chassis/subframe in a slotted hole so you can adjust the control arm in or out to adjust camber. Having watched alignment guys fight with it, from what I've seen it takes some pretty good effort to get it to move, and then you have to tighten the bolt down while holding that position.

And yes, adjusting camber would mess with toe, too.

Solid axle? I think you're in the wrong forum, man.

Fiveliterbtr

Haha, carry on...my bad...new guy will learn soon.

To answer the original post (without being vehicle-specific), any change in camber will always affect toe...changing toe does not necessarily affect camber, however. 18 years of professional automotive repair.

Isaacs

iTrader: (1)

Thank you! This is the kind of response I was looking for. I was hoping it used an adjustable rod end instead of the slotted hole. That way you could just measure it by turns in or out and do the same amount of rotations for the other side.

Isaacs

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. So I assume the tech sets the desired camber first then moves on to toe setting?

DarkCharisma

Oh god, if I had a solid rear axle on the V...

MyFirstLS1

iTrader: (8)

Yeah your camber will always dictate your toe thats why we have to set camber first before we can adjust toe.

From what the other guys said it sounds like it is an eccentric bolt unlike the vettes which i believe had the rods more like a front tie rod.

HR2L

Yes. Start with Camber, then make your Toe adjustment. The two angles affect each other (sometimes drastically pending how far out of adjustment you are) . More so Camber to Toe then Toe to Camber, if that makes sense.

Fiveliterbtr

As already noted, correct...and on the front it's caster/camber/toe.

Fuzzy_Wuzzy

iTrader: (8)

I have not adjusted my own as it is easier to take it to a shop, and i just leave it set more track oriented, but they do make good camber/caster gauges that you can use yourself: (even better they make digital ones that are easier to read)

toe is easy enough to measure and adjust on your own.



I doubt you will be as precise as the equipment at a good shop (and for $90 the guy dialed in my car exactly to the numbers i wanted...) but I won't stop someone from picking up a skill.

If you want to give it a go, it is a relatively cheap investment (that you can always sell if you don't like the results)

Another plus side. I know for Auto-x we have a day or two a year of test-n-tune where it can be beneficial to play around with your alignment on site and see if you like the effects.

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

Preparing for upcoming track day had alignment done today used aggressive specs from faq as guidance. Dealership said tie rods were shot but after replacing came out well.
Front camber caster
left -1 6.1
Right -1 6.2
Toe .03

Rear
left -1.5
Right -1.5
Toe .11

Near stock ride height on kw v3 running 275/40/18 all corners

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Unless I'm reading that wrong, you've got toe in up front and toe out in the rear. Toe in up front isn't a problem, but toe out in the rear will make the car squirrely under braking and putting power down coming out of corners. At least, that's how it feels to me.

I, too, got mine aligned today; I'm hitting VIR on Mon/Tues. I'm at -2.2 camber all around, a bit of toe out up front and a bit of toe in in the rear. The camber and caster were basically already good, I just wanted the toe checked, and sure enough it was out of whack at both ends of the car.

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

Ya tech wrote that down incorrectly didn't get official sheet just comments on the invoice. I checked it quick with tow plates after your post and updated the original post.