lilgcts-v

I've been wanting to do a twin turbo build for some time now and i've done just about all the research i could do, the only thing i really need help with is choosing the right turbo chargers. I thought about doing some CX racing GT35 turbo's because they seem to work but i feel going with a quality turbo will yield a better result. I was thinking of OIL-LESS COMP 5858 ball bearing turbo's, any expert opinions would be great !

lilgcts-v

http://www.compturbo.com/products/ct2billet/ct2_5858

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

if i do twins im going oil-less as well.

lilgcts-v

up front the oil-less are a bit more expensive but from what i understand oil scavenge pumps are headaches

I8URSVT

iTrader: (2)

I contacted comp a while back. I believe the billet wheel ones they have ($$ option) helps them spool up faster than the same size w/ the billet wheel. That would be my choice. They are pricey but to be oil-less and billet wheel would be awesome.

From what ive read they are great on the vettes and f-bodies. There were a couple build threads with ppl making huge numbers with them on mild combos.

MichaelSuch

I've always heard of people going this route even on other platforms but it always falls through due to Comp's customer service. It's horrid. But I am sure they would yield nice results. If you decide not go that route PTE turbos are great too. I'd look into the 6266's. Good luck.

Forcfed93

iTrader: (10)

Remember that Comp's use water cooling. You'll still have to fab a water cooling system for a rear mount. MOST standard turbos use only oil for both lube and cooling.

Basically, by using the comp oil-less turbos, you're just trading an oil scavenging system for a water cooling system. For the price, I'd rather just do the oil system.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

water system is simple and cheap. small front mount water to air.. a pump..few lines to the turbo and back. small res will help too. much cheaper and easier than running oil.

shadyLS6

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...orry-long.html
good discussion

good luck mike, i'll be back this summer, lets hit some meets in may

DMM

This is why I never went this route myself. I figured with the oil-less turbo's I could mount them in such a position that the charge and intake piping would be easier to fabricate while installing the turbo's in place of the cats. I was planning on teeing off the return hose from the heater core. I can run coolant lines all over the damn car but oil lines require gravity drain. Screw that.

I hope Comp treats you better than they did me. Good luck with the build and keep us posted on the build!

DMM

He means the bearing pack of the turbo itself is liquid cooled. The intercooler can be air/air or water/air with air/air being more efficient and much simpler.

VincentT

I don't want to sound like I'm trying to damper TT enthusiasm or anything, but this is how I've come to my conclusions.

I figured out my CID/HP/Fuel/Intercooler (347/850/pump gas/air-to-air) goals and worked out where my engine would fall on a compressor map. Then I looked at Garrett turbos (since they provide all of their compressor maps) and found a decent range. Once I got a good range of Garrett turbos in mind, I looked around for other turbos with similar parameters. 5858's fall pretty closely where I'm wanting. 5558's may actually be better.

And I like the idea of oil-less for a rear setup, mainly because I don't like the idea of engine oil lines having to run that far. Too dangerous for my tastes. I would rather create a self contained cooling setup in the back.

Now to hopefully not damper your TT enthusiasm (don't get mad!): I am no longer sold on the TT setup. I feel that single turbos get a bad rap for being laggy because guys buy a big turbo to make big horsepower above 4,000 RPM and then complain when there's lag. On a theoretical basis, a single turbo that is properly sized should be able to spool up just as quickly as twin turbos. This is because, while a single turbo may have greater rotational inertia to overcome (because it's bigger), it is also seeing twice as much exhaust gas as each single turbo in the twin setup. Now, couple proper sizing with the supposed superior spool up times of the oil-less turbos. With that combo, I am no longer sold on twins for my future setup. A quick search shows me that buying a brand new set of oil-less 5558's will run you around $2,700, whereas one brand new oil-less larger (but properly sized) turbo will run you around $1,800. And then you only have to buy one waste gate. And run one coolant line. And you have more room to package stuff.

Now, don't get me wrong. I love the idea of twins. It just sounds fun. Get a couple of turbos in the 55-60mm range and have fun! You're not wrong for wanting twins. I just think twins find their true niche on HIGH horsepower applications where no single turbo exists that is big enough to suffice.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Problem with the V1 is space to put a bigger single but I agree twins dont really appeal to me much after seeing two of everything on my buddies car. There has to be a way to put a single 76mm in the engine bay.

VincentT

Yeah, you can always move the fuse box and free up space there. But, if the OP wants to do a rear mount, he can always cut out the spare tire tub and close it back up with some sheet metal or something. Not the most glamorous solution, but it would free up lots of space in the back. I'm planning on doing that. I keep a full size spare in there now, but I would just switch to putting it in my trunk.

lilgcts-v

i always thought about moving the fuse box, has anyone ever done that before ?

VincentT

I don't know about actually accomplishing it. It would be a pain for sure, but as long as you get it back together properly with the correct gauging of wires, you could practically put it anywhere in the car. Although, the idea of having a fault somewhere along the length of a bundle of 14 ft wires is not a fun one.

lilgcts-v

yea so i would say front mounting would be off topic, rear mounting is proven.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

You probably wouldnt even have to extend wires, route the wires through the fender and attach it between the fender and the wheel well like guys do who wire tuck engine bays.

Just remember your considering spending $3k in turbos alone to make rear mounting easier. Wont hurt to look at all options.

lilgcts-v

The reason i want to go wit those turbo's is because they will be easier to work with as i dont have to use a noisy oil scavenge pump, and they can be mounted in any configuration, they also will spool somewhat fast because they are ball bearing.

Forcfed93

iTrader: (10)

Just remember though, you will still have to build a water cooling system.

You'll need:

Water pump, heat exchanger, reservoir and lines.

Like I said previously, all you're doing is trading an oil system for a water system at a much higher price.

As far as mounting anywhere, just get a good standard turbo with v-bands on the compressor and turbine housings and you can clock either side any which way you want independently of the main body which needs to remain upright for oil flow.