Finishing up new hotside install...
04-10-2013, 06:55 AM
#1
Finishing up new hotside install... Worked on the car and finished up the last few items.
___Yesterday, I got finished with all that and put the fully charged battery back in the car. I primed the fuel pump, turned the key and she fired up right away. So happy about that. I got out of the car and looked beneath for any leaks and bad noises. Whoops.. looks like I forgot to tighten the header bolts on cylinder #7. Turned her off, let her cool, then tightened the bolts. I restarted her and went around again looking for more 'issues'. Finding none, I got in the car, drove off the ramps and around the block a few times at 35 mph to let her get fully warmed and see if the pusher fans were going to do the job. Nice! It got up to the normal temp of just below the first quarter mark. I decided to accelerate a little heavy on the road but was then aware she was only running on 7.
___I pulled back into the driveway and went and got my laptop, firing up datamaster. Hmm.. it's running poorly on the right side. The O2 readings were way off. I kill the motor, then look for loose plug wires, etc. All hooked up fully and fully on the plugs. I pull #2 off and set up a spare plug on the intake(for grounding purposes) and start the engine. Nice blue spark. I kill the motor and then repeat this for cylinder #4 but when I pull the plug out it's pristine like never fired. Like no gasoline.... hmmm... I stuck the plug next to my nose and sniffed it. No gas smell at all. Uh oh...So after making sure it sparked, I put it back in the cylinder and hooked everything back up. I started the engine, then got out and unclipped the injector for cylinder #2. The engine labored down with the loss of a cylinder. I clipped it back on. The engine regained it's former idle. I unclipped injector #4. No change.. . I clipped it on and off a few more times. No change in idle quality. I then tried cylinders 6 and 8. Both of those, like cylinder #2, caused the engine to drop in RPM when unclipped. So, to prove it was the wires and not the injector in #4, I unclipped both #2 and #4 , and placed #2 connector on #4 injector. THe idle quality regained. Aha... dirty b*stard wires. So, engine running, I got out a spare LED and stuck it in the unclipped connector for #4. Nothing... I put the same LED in the connector for #2 and it flicked rhythmically. I tried flexing the wires on #4's connectors to see if I could make it intermittently fire but no go. Unfortunately, I ran out of time and had to leave her for next weekend.
- Stock fans are now in front of the radiator. Had to rewire them to be 'pusher' fans.
- Power steering lines had been rerouted. Bought some 5/16' steel brake line and some brass compression fittings. Cut to length and installed.
- Exhaust/hotside/downpipe now exit on the passenger side(HELLO GROUND CLEARANCE!).
___Yesterday, I got finished with all that and put the fully charged battery back in the car. I primed the fuel pump, turned the key and she fired up right away. So happy about that. I got out of the car and looked beneath for any leaks and bad noises. Whoops.. looks like I forgot to tighten the header bolts on cylinder #7. Turned her off, let her cool, then tightened the bolts. I restarted her and went around again looking for more 'issues'. Finding none, I got in the car, drove off the ramps and around the block a few times at 35 mph to let her get fully warmed and see if the pusher fans were going to do the job. Nice! It got up to the normal temp of just below the first quarter mark. I decided to accelerate a little heavy on the road but was then aware she was only running on 7.
___I pulled back into the driveway and went and got my laptop, firing up datamaster. Hmm.. it's running poorly on the right side. The O2 readings were way off. I kill the motor, then look for loose plug wires, etc. All hooked up fully and fully on the plugs. I pull #2 off and set up a spare plug on the intake(for grounding purposes) and start the engine. Nice blue spark. I kill the motor and then repeat this for cylinder #4 but when I pull the plug out it's pristine like never fired. Like no gasoline.... hmmm... I stuck the plug next to my nose and sniffed it. No gas smell at all. Uh oh...So after making sure it sparked, I put it back in the cylinder and hooked everything back up. I started the engine, then got out and unclipped the injector for cylinder #2. The engine labored down with the loss of a cylinder. I clipped it back on. The engine regained it's former idle. I unclipped injector #4. No change.. . I clipped it on and off a few more times. No change in idle quality. I then tried cylinders 6 and 8. Both of those, like cylinder #2, caused the engine to drop in RPM when unclipped. So, to prove it was the wires and not the injector in #4, I unclipped both #2 and #4 , and placed #2 connector on #4 injector. THe idle quality regained. Aha... dirty b*stard wires. So, engine running, I got out a spare LED and stuck it in the unclipped connector for #4. Nothing... I put the same LED in the connector for #2 and it flicked rhythmically. I tried flexing the wires on #4's connectors to see if I could make it intermittently fire but no go. Unfortunately, I ran out of time and had to leave her for next weekend.
04-10-2013, 07:25 AM
#2
Sounds like U R getting there...
1 question: What's with this "fix"???
"Power steering lines had been rerouted. Bought some 5/16' steel brake line and some brass compression fittings. Cut to length and installed."
AFIK, brass fittings are not designed to handle anywhere near the p/s system pressure.
1 question: What's with this "fix"???
"Power steering lines had been rerouted. Bought some 5/16' steel brake line and some brass compression fittings. Cut to length and installed."
AFIK, brass fittings are not designed to handle anywhere near the p/s system pressure.
04-10-2013, 07:50 AM
#3
The reason they were rerouted, the path of the new headers intersected where the factory lines were.
As far as the capability of brass, I'll have to say that I'd read it elsewhere and adopted their solution. Are there stainless counterparts to the brass?
Thanks for offering your questions. Certainly wouldn't want to get into an incident.
As far as the capability of brass, I'll have to say that I'd read it elsewhere and adopted their solution. Are there stainless counterparts to the brass?
Thanks for offering your questions. Certainly wouldn't want to get into an incident.
Sounds like U R getting there...
1 question: What's with this "fix"???
"Power steering lines had been rerouted. Bought some 5/16' steel brake line and some brass compression fittings. Cut to length and installed."
AFIK, brass fittings are not designed to handle anywhere near the p/s system pressure.
1 question: What's with this "fix"???
"Power steering lines had been rerouted. Bought some 5/16' steel brake line and some brass compression fittings. Cut to length and installed."
AFIK, brass fittings are not designed to handle anywhere near the p/s system pressure.
04-10-2013, 10:47 AM
#7
I'm curious also about using the stock fans as pushers. I wouldn't think swapping the blades around would do much since they are a straight blade design.
How did you mount them to the front of the radiator? Got any pics? How well does it work like this?
How did you mount them to the front of the radiator? Got any pics? How well does it work like this?
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04-10-2013, 11:26 AM
#9
I didn't. I just rewired them to push instead of pull. They kept the car at my previous operating temps (1st quarter mark) during my driving. I let it get fully up to temperature, drove it around, let it idle for several minutes and didn't have a problem but I will do some more lengthy testing when I get back home(at client site now).
04-10-2013, 11:32 AM
#10
Since I no longer have the A/C, I took off the condenser, providing much more room. I took the mounting panel/fan assembly from the back of the radiator and positioned it in front. The retaining tangs don't match up any more but the panel is resting/sitting on the bottom surface of the aperture for the radiator support. With the upper radiator plate/support in place the fan assemblies are sandwiched in with no room to flop but at the same time, it is not pinched/contorted. When I get back home, I'll get some pictures to show you what I've done.
