owlpuff

As the title states, this is my first time taking apart my LS1 engine. I am finally out of the military and have more time than I know what to do with ( new job doesn't start till may 13th ). Right now I am practicing the process of labeling bags of bolts and keeping separated, also used colored markers on the header bolts and the block to make sure they go back into the same place. I am currently at removing the header from the head.. Got it unbolted but realizing it doesn't come out through the top or bottom.. So I'm leaning towards removing the steering u-joint thing ( not well versed on all the terms still ) as it is only 2 bolts to disconnect. Is there any precautions I should note? And any tip on things I should do while my engine is completely taken apart. IE free mods I should do ect. I am planning on installing an oil catch as my ait intake, heads are TARED up horribly ( which is prolly why I was getting 18mpg on the highway non aggressive driving. )

conan

iTrader: (5)

Are you pulling the motor out and taking it down to a bare block ? Or pulling the top end and leaving the short block in the car?

As far as tips, take a bunch of pics every step of the way so you can go back to them during reassembly. Bag and label every thing as you said. Take your time and don't try to set any speed records.

The headers will come out the bottom, you have to get the car high and push the collector up and let the flange end drop. Moving the steering shaft will help. I would get in the car and make sure the steering wheel is straight and locked before you remove the linkage shaft.

owlpuff

Bringing it down to the block to inspect top of pistons and do a deep cleaning on the whole thing. Every inch of the internals are covered by a thick sludge so far, from behind the throttle body inwards. Had a horrible lot of oil seeping into the the intake manifold via the PCV that was undetected until about 80k miles.


Since wife just got a job, this will be my DD again, I got 2 weeks to finish the tear down clean and put back together. Besides a full gasket set, what other things should i look towards getting / replacing that won't break the bank?

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

you mean your bringing it down to the short block and leaving the internals alone, or bare block and taking internals out?

if so I would look into surfacing your heads with a clean up mill atleast... ARP head bolts so you can take heads off again down the road and reuse them if you needed.. if you don't plan to then new stock bolts will be fine, you can't reuse your headbolts once they have been torqued down..

conan

iTrader: (5)

X2 ^^^
Take the heads to a machine shop have them cleaned, milled and vacuum tested.

Are you going to remove the timing cover and oil pan ?

Replace the lifters and trays while the heads are off.

2000PewterT/A

Label everything in baggies and take pictures. Have a good service manual to consult if need be. Like others said I would take the heads for a full cleaning and mill them slightly, just to get a nice level surface. While the heads are off I would put new lifters/trays in it, if you wanted to ever do a cam swap now would be the time to do it.

kingof951

iTrader: (1)

pictures is a must!!! make sure u remember how all the vucuum lines go(past experience) lol. also through some poly motor mounts on there while its apart.

SPAZ-3

Pictures!!!!!!!

owlpuff

Yeah, I tried to keep them all intact.. 2 of em ripped already though, fortunately tubing is cheap enough. As far as the motor mounts, I wasn't planning on detaching the shortblock from the frame, More than my garage tech can handle lol.


Any recommendations on lifters and the tray? Or will any run of the mil set work.

kingof951

iTrader: (1)

motor mounts are easier with headers off. not that hard to do. piece of plywood and a jack and yur on yur way

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

If you have the budget, new ls7 lifters and ls2 plastic trays ($180 for the pair) are good insurance while you have the engine apart... even though the stockers are most likely fine... its just preventive maintenance..

owlpuff

Well I am in a bind now... Trying to figure out how to disconnect the power steering reservoir



Got the front bolt off, the back bolt is as far off as it will come before hitting tank ( figure I can get it rest of way when I loosen bottom ) but the bottom one with the socket on it is ROYALLY a pain in the ***! Cant breakerbar it, socket U joint doesn't give the torque to brek it loose, socket wrench with deepsocket/reducer or any mix of extensions wont fit in there.. =\

I went as far as draining the power steering reservoir via the cooling line



Engine bay of eww >_> main reason behind taking it apart, a deep cleaning to make it work a lil better and make it presentable!






As far as bolts, got a decent deal on gaskets/seals and all new bolts from Virginia Speed, starting to like that store more and more even though the show room is kinda spartan.

conan

iTrader: (5)

Here's how the pump comes apart...

http://camaroversion20.shutterfly.com/131#132

http://camaroversion20.shutterfly.com/131#131

http://camaroversion20.shutterfly.com/131#130

http://camaroversion20.shutterfly.com/131#135

There is threads cut in to the pump shaft, they are 3/8 - 16 . Use a bolt with a washer to seat the pulley back on the pump shaft. I put some grease on the bolt threads before you start cranking it down.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Go to auto zone and rent a pulley puller pull the pulley off the power steering pump that will give you plenty of room the get that hose off on the side of the power steering pump, also get a new power steering cooler a different one I recommend or just delete it entirely like i did. definitely get new LS7 lifters, heads milled, a gasket set, lid, headers pacesetters 1 7/8ths are good with cat back exhaust, new dual valve springs roller rockers, and a tune you can have all that for under 2k i believe and you'll be putting down close to 330rwhp and trq not bad for a simple upgrade. if there's anything else I missed im sure some one will add it if I haven't repeated anything else all ready

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

oh and also keep posting updates this site is gonna be your new friend till you finish! and get a LS6 intake you have a LS1 intake from what I can tell in your pic.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

with the p/s pump what i did was just got a 15mm open wrench and as i loosened the bolts id pull the pump out. it took a few minutes but imo its easier than pulling the pulley off and keeps everything in tact. the water pump was off when i did this

owlpuff

Problem with all the upgrades is figuring out priorities to stage. I have about $500 left in my budget for this month (with $500 extra per month in budget (love the fact the wife FINALLY got a job )) As for headers: Virginia Speed said they can do a full magnaflow set + install for less than $1,000, price matching just about any competitor online or local shop. My thoughts on this, do the exhaust first, then save up the next 1.5-2k for headers and cats. Is that a valid plan?


I already have the brand new gasket set + bolts OEM from GM that is. Leaning heavy towards the lifters and trays ( might well knock everything inside while it is open eh? ) Just need some good pointers on where to buy as price rage drastically site to site. The less I spend the better as that translates to sooner on the exhaust!


Is is sad I set up a bank account solely for the car upgrades? xD

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

LOL go to Summit racing and get your stuff from there they have good deals also look at thunder racing they have military discount as well you may or may not have to send them a copy of your ID. but when I paid a little over 1k for a full exhaust work thats headers, x pipe and dumps and some one to install them as well not bad, just go on summit and make a list of everything you want and it will tell you the total amount and I hear a Cheater 2 cam is good and fairly cheap just make sure you get a tune when your finished.

LSPOWEREDS10

iTrader: (1)

Change out the ls1 valley cover to the ls6 one and your motor will stay cleaner due to the intake not getting air from the valve covers where oil is shooting up instead its getting air from the valley cover where oil is driaining down google the modification for drtails but its a good upgrade to keep the inside cleaner

garygnu

consider a ls2 timing chain.what head gaskets are you going to use ?check Texas Speed for gasket sets.when the heads are off pour some fluid down the ports ,see if you have any valve leaks.if so get a valve job.inspect all of your PCV lines for cracks .