pilot bearing O.D. to small?
#1
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
pilot bearing O.D. to small?
LT 1 car
I replaced my pilot bearing for a new clutch swap. it was a GM and it took a half dozen "good" smacks with the slide hamer but it came out a little with each pull of the tool. Great puller that had a fitting the perfect size for the bearing removal
I got GM # 1406-1685 pilot bearing.
Went to put it in and I could just push it in with my finger....WTF. I have put a few bearings in since this motor (383 forged eagle crank) no problem. This bearing is so lose when I stab the tranny it pushes it back in the crank.
Got a "made in usa" bearing at NAPA. It mic "slightly" larger so I used my dowel to pound it in but it took very little effort and also got pushed back when I put in tranny. I mic the GM & Napa and a "no name" I have and got 3 diffrent sizes (although very slight)
GM=1.093
NAPA=1.094
no name=1.095
Is there another "larger" O.D. by about .003ish?
weird the bearing I pulled was tight. I know aftermrket cranks may have some variance in machining but again I had a GM bearing in before and it was tight
suggestions?
wrap some sizing material around the bearing??
I replaced my pilot bearing for a new clutch swap. it was a GM and it took a half dozen "good" smacks with the slide hamer but it came out a little with each pull of the tool. Great puller that had a fitting the perfect size for the bearing removal
I got GM # 1406-1685 pilot bearing.
Went to put it in and I could just push it in with my finger....WTF. I have put a few bearings in since this motor (383 forged eagle crank) no problem. This bearing is so lose when I stab the tranny it pushes it back in the crank.
Got a "made in usa" bearing at NAPA. It mic "slightly" larger so I used my dowel to pound it in but it took very little effort and also got pushed back when I put in tranny. I mic the GM & Napa and a "no name" I have and got 3 diffrent sizes (although very slight)
GM=1.093
NAPA=1.094
no name=1.095
Is there another "larger" O.D. by about .003ish?
weird the bearing I pulled was tight. I know aftermrket cranks may have some variance in machining but again I had a GM bearing in before and it was tight
suggestions?
wrap some sizing material around the bearing??
#2
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
spoke to builder to see if he had installed a "aftermarket" larger pilot bearing as it fit. he said "yeah aftermarket cranks can have a slight variance in size"....and was not aware of a "larger OD" bushing or bearing. Just weird as the one in it was very tight and any replacement one I find does not fit as tight and gets pushed back when I install tranny
He said they use a bronze bushing by Pioneer but that specs 1.096 OD also...
so anyone running a aftermarket crank have/solved this issue?
He said they use a bronze bushing by Pioneer but that specs 1.096 OD also...
so anyone running a aftermarket crank have/solved this issue?
#3
Have an LS7 with an Eagle crank. Just replaced the clutch and yes the pilot came out with my pinky and new one went in same way. Searching proved that this is common with the Eagle crank sbc, lt1, ls1,etc. Mine was snug but moved in out with my fingers. I used red loctite on mine and it secured it. Had a few tranny guys say that would work.
#4
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
thought of that also but was hesitant because removing in future may be a problem...although the blind hole puller I get from Autozone really worked well in removing the old one which was very tight. that is what is so weird, the old bearing was in very tight.
another suggested to use a chisel on the inside of the crank where bearing goes and "check" the crank with it.....I am not in favor of beating on the inside of the crank with a chisel though.
#6
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
as bigblock noted I searched "Eagle crank LT1 pilot bearing" and a bunch of threads poped up about the Eagle cranks being bored bigger and also the flywheel lip is to big. Both issues of my Eagle crank. I have been able to draw the FW on but it was tight
I see people suggest/did using a punch inside the crank to raise edges. Also reports that Eagle would send "knurled" pilot bearings out and some even resorted to having bushings machined...
I took the old bearing and punched it around the outside surface and it did raise surface area.
The "lock tite" to me seems the least abusive to both crank & bearing, if it holds the bearing in place.
The bearing I just put in did take some hamer using a wood dowel and felt snug it just pushed in when I put the tranny in pushing it to the back of the crank. It came out with minimal effort from the slide hammer
Thinking back when I was at a shop doing a LT1 383 they had same issue and used some form of thin metal (brass or bronze material IIRC) to put around the bearing with some of the material also started in the crank. Pounding in the bearing also took in some of the material and it was in tight. This stuff was not tin/aluminum foil but something very thin.
Wish I knew what that material was and where to get it. I believe the shop refered to it as "sizing material"
I see people suggest/did using a punch inside the crank to raise edges. Also reports that Eagle would send "knurled" pilot bearings out and some even resorted to having bushings machined...
I took the old bearing and punched it around the outside surface and it did raise surface area.
The "lock tite" to me seems the least abusive to both crank & bearing, if it holds the bearing in place.
The bearing I just put in did take some hamer using a wood dowel and felt snug it just pushed in when I put the tranny in pushing it to the back of the crank. It came out with minimal effort from the slide hammer
Thinking back when I was at a shop doing a LT1 383 they had same issue and used some form of thin metal (brass or bronze material IIRC) to put around the bearing with some of the material also started in the crank. Pounding in the bearing also took in some of the material and it was in tight. This stuff was not tin/aluminum foil but something very thin.
Wish I knew what that material was and where to get it. I believe the shop refered to it as "sizing material"
Last edited by BALLSS; 04-25-2013 at 12:45 PM.
#7
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Thinking back when I was at a shop doing a LT1 383 they had same issue and used some form of thin metal (brass or bronze material IIRC) to put around the bearing with some of the material also started in the crank. Pounding in the bearing also took in some of the material and it was in tight. This stuff was not tin/aluminum foil but something very thin.
Wish I knew what that material was and where to get it. I believe the shop refered to it as "sizing material"
Wish I knew what that material was and where to get it. I believe the shop refered to it as "sizing material"