Stock ls1, 3.73s, stock 4l60e + slicks?
04-23-2013, 02:13 AM
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Stock ls1, 3.73s, stock 4l60e + slicks? I just finished an LS1/4l60e swap in a 72 c10 pickup. The power is incredible and while the truck has resumed DD duties, I'd like to see what that little LS1 really has. Even with a rear mount tank and 60 series street rubber, I have a hard time wrapping out the motor from a roll. The rear is a built GM 12 bolt with Auburn posi and 600 hp single piece drive shaft.
I have an old set of 14.5x28" Hoosier qwik time pro DOT slicks but I am worried about hooking it up on a stock 4l60e. The motor trans combo (supposedly) has 60k mi on them.
I dont expect to make more than a few passes (at least for now) as well as some spirited driving. How well do these stock transmissions hold up to such abuse? I am using a 24k GVU stacked plate transcooler and plenty of cooling time will be allowed between passes.
Just from driving around town, it feels like the motor has a 13 in it with the right setup and sticky tires.
Again, the truck is a DD so I would prefer not to spill its guts if at all possible while having fun.
I have an old set of 14.5x28" Hoosier qwik time pro DOT slicks but I am worried about hooking it up on a stock 4l60e. The motor trans combo (supposedly) has 60k mi on them.
I dont expect to make more than a few passes (at least for now) as well as some spirited driving. How well do these stock transmissions hold up to such abuse? I am using a 24k GVU stacked plate transcooler and plenty of cooling time will be allowed between passes.
Just from driving around town, it feels like the motor has a 13 in it with the right setup and sticky tires.
Again, the truck is a DD so I would prefer not to spill its guts if at all possible while having fun.
04-23-2013, 08:23 AM
#2
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No "money back guarantee", but a stock 4L60E can handle a 13 second ET on slicks. 350HP or so is generally not a big problem. What year is the trans? GM upgraded the sun shell between 2002 and 2003 and this was a common failure in earlier years.
If you are going to continue having fun, I would recommend having a Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 boost valve installed to increase line pressure. A trans shop can do this in 15 minutes; the boost valve costs $25. Better yet would be a Transgo HD2 shift kit. That is a bit more involved; probably 2+ hours labor for a trans shop.
If you are going to continue having fun, I would recommend having a Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 boost valve installed to increase line pressure. A trans shop can do this in 15 minutes; the boost valve costs $25. Better yet would be a Transgo HD2 shift kit. That is a bit more involved; probably 2+ hours labor for a trans shop.
04-23-2013, 10:38 AM
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The motor and trans are a mated pair out of a 98 T/A.
I'll look into the boost valve - I have seen that mentioned a few times. I'd like to avoid a shift kit for now as I want it to be smooth driving around town. I am still using the stock converter for now (which seems fine with the traction issues im having) so it should be launching very low in the power curve.
These old trucks simply dont transfer weight or grab the road like the F bodies.
I'll look into the boost valve - I have seen that mentioned a few times. I'd like to avoid a shift kit for now as I want it to be smooth driving around town. I am still using the stock converter for now (which seems fine with the traction issues im having) so it should be launching very low in the power curve.
These old trucks simply dont transfer weight or grab the road like the F bodies.
04-23-2013, 12:56 PM
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The Transgo HD2 shift kit has options for shift firmness. The mildest might be too firm for "Miss Daisy", but certainly not for anyone that posts on this forum.
I recommend drilling the 3rd apply hole a little bigger in the separator plate, partly to compensate for any leakage in the 3-4 clutch circuit; any leakage will let the 3-4 clutch slip and burn out. By the time you remove the valve body to drill the separator plate, you might as well install the HD2 shift kit.
Just my opinions.
I recommend drilling the 3rd apply hole a little bigger in the separator plate, partly to compensate for any leakage in the 3-4 clutch circuit; any leakage will let the 3-4 clutch slip and burn out. By the time you remove the valve body to drill the separator plate, you might as well install the HD2 shift kit.
Just my opinions.
