js2fst

iTrader: (12)

I have a adjustable torque arm, torque arm relocator, adjustable lcas, lca relocators, adjustable pan hard, rear sway bar(looking at fronts) k member, adjustable upper control arms, looking at adjustable lowers either boxed or dropped, and new rack and pinion(not sure what kind ) bumpstops,thinking c6 brakes and new spindles and bearings. Shocks and springs are up in the air? I know a lot of people like stranos but a lot are some what stock suspensions. So how would they do in a completely modified set up. Also thinking of dropped spindles.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

What question are you asking specifically?

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

Ideas on front lower control arms dropped or not shocks and spring rack and pinion, bearings, spindles, or steering boxes that people like?

94LT1TA6spd

I am just working on getting into autoX. 4/4 konis are highly recommended, along with Strano springs..... I have BMR springs and 4/3 yellow konis.

I did a poll the other day. Everyone suggests Strano sways, front and rear. These I plan to order next week.

Are you building a track only car?? or do you road it too??

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Here's my .02 when it comes to getting into either types of racing for the first time...

To start out in autox... just go. Bring your car as is. See what it's like. Get seat time. Take a local autox school if you have any available. When you start tossing modifications at the car you bump yourself up in classification. Depending on what you put on your car you might actually make it handle worse.

To start out in road racing or track days... I would do similar to autox. Although you want to be mostly focused on safety. Make sure your brakes are up to par and your car can handle the faster and longer duration of driving. There are a few others who can chime in here.

Getting into racing can be an eye opening experience and might change the way you look at modifications. You definitely dont need most of the stuff people all toss on their cars these days. I definitely would not be focused on modifications before you've even bothered to try it. I'd go and race a few times and then analyze what you can change to make yourself faster. But the best modification you will be able to make is to the driver.

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

The car is a part so i might as well finish i have had vettes with highly modified. I have tried autocross before. It will mainly be a street car this and a drag strip occasionally. I need to turn hp down on car I know. Also can I run a davis traction control?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

For autox I would stick with stock everything. Strano springs/koni shocks. Hawk HPS pads, decent set of rotors, simple brake maintenance. Then take it to the track.

Can't say for road race, but it seems like people tend to use higher springrates since the car compresses easier at higher speeds.

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

Too late for stock parts too much flex too! Autocross honestly I am not sure power won't be my issue.

bene

iTrader: (16)

Springs and shocks, brakes (pads/fluids/lines/brake ducts), power steering cooler, and swaybars, IMO are needed.

Stay with stock front arms, spindles, torque arms however if your stock bushings are bad, replace all of them with Moogs (rubber).

You can toy with stickier tires after you have some experience under your belt.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Most hardcore road racers use stock k member and lower control arms because they were over engineered for strength, hence the weight. Most a arms are drag oriented and therefore put a precedent on weight over strength. There is the umi road race k member and Lcas, but at that point you've paid $900 to save almost no weight with very little, if any, increase in strength.

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

But they are adjustable

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

Do not put round front lowers on the car. They are a drag racing thing and I promise they will break with street and RR track use. I broke a set and was lucky the damage was minimal, it could have totalled the car. They were one of the topline suppliers in Chrome moly too.

UMI does make a beefy RR front lower, which I own now. UMI makes a very nice RR K Member too (I also have it), but as mentioned the weight savings are minimal. As mentioned I think the stocker are a solid choice. The factory K has adjustment.

My uppers are Global West and they have been rock solid, they are not adjustable, but add caster and chamber to the stock set up.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I'm wondering how much negative camber do most people prefer? In both my events the -1.5 from standard lowering seems to be just fine. I don't have any understeer issues.

I'm not sure if Strano makes them these days, but he once had offset bushings made which gave you a few more tenths of negative camber. You could get these and retain all stock front upper and lower A arms.

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

Rampant do you think 705 rwhp will be too much

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I have 400 rwhp and that's too much for autox, lol. I have to create oversteer conditions if I ever want to plant all my rear wheel power at full throttle.

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

I do not have 705 rwhp, maybe 600rwhp or a little more. The 705 is flywheel.

I did autocross with 511rwhp and 550rwhp. I liked it a lot, but it takes a practiced foot, you do not mat it, you gently squeeze it and most of the time never hit the mat. It is nice to know you have more in reserve.

My ITB makes hooking it up a lot easier. It responds to every input.

Here is a video of 511 rwhp.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/tfbm-solo2-race-1-full-video_121882.htm
At the 6:45 mark is the 2006 Canadian Champion, I ran after him. The in car is me and I was nearly 2 sec faster for the FTD. With Paxxing he beat me. I only beat him with Paxxing one time, and oddly it was in the rain.

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

Talk to Sam Strano, his set up helped my car plant the power. You do need a good tire though. I have run V710s and R888s on mine. If ever get serious I will put some A6s on it.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

The car in my sig has approximately 320 WHP & 2900 pounds and is an absolute blast to road race. You don't need nutso power levels or lots of $$$ mods to enjoy yourself. The best thing you can do is get seat time.

I tweak things here and there as time goes by, but most of my mods have been for safety and reliability (brakes, roll cage, lexan, Turn One PS pump, etc).

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

Oh yes it will be caged again. I will close the waste gate maybe if there would be enough of a straight away. I want to try a little of everything. A sugar hills run silver cup classic. Maybe a standing mile run. I know I won't win but all around fun sounds good. 900 rwhp on tap to do a little catch up.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Yeah I've gone to Sam a lot in the past. I don't autox as much now as I used to. I could definitely use a better set of tires! Due to my other race event which requires a 100 treadwear min, I hesitate to put on real autox tires. I am more dedicated to my local spectator drags event than autocross.

I think a better limited slip could help me big time, but the options out there don't make me want to jump on anything.

Also the same thing with a racing seat. I often hold myself in place using my steering wheel and that doesn't help my ability to control the car at all times. I tried a racing seat before, but it sat me too high and I put back the stock seat. I'm hesitant to go down this road again as well.