need help with different kinds of clutch master cylinders
04-28-2013, 08:24 PM
#1
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need help with different kinds of clutch master cylinders I'm about to buy a stock gm parts replacement clutch master cylinder but they sell two. One is the master cylinder only, the other is double the price, but comes assembled.with the steel line and the resivor, and I guess pre bled. Question is since I'm not gonna be the one installing it, do I really need to have the braided line and resivor replace too? The reason I'm replacing mine is just because the car is a 99 with 116k on it and the clutch isn't fully disengaging. The slave and the trans are new, the clutch is newer as it was looked over when I had the trans put in.
Here's the question...do I spend the extra money and get the entire clutch master, get just the MC itself for half the money, or spend the $170 for a ram adjustable master cylinder which again, doesn't include the resivor or the braided line. I still don't know why I need to replace the resivor or the braided line..
Any advice??
Here's the question...do I spend the extra money and get the entire clutch master, get just the MC itself for half the money, or spend the $170 for a ram adjustable master cylinder which again, doesn't include the resivor or the braided line. I still don't know why I need to replace the resivor or the braided line..
Any advice??
04-29-2013, 04:57 AM
#3
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the clutch is fine, it chatters a bit but it is an aftermarket hays clutch. the problem is its got the original MC. car does shift good, just cant shift fast. shifts at 6500 just fine as long as your shifting like your not on a meth bender
when you try to put the car in gear with the clutch disengaged the car moves. plus you can hear the clutch spinning down when you try to get the car in first. you gotta put the car in first to spin the clutch down to get into reverse.
im pretty positive its the master because literally i spent about 3 grand on everything, shifter, Tranzilla T56 viper spec, and slave clyinder. MC is the only thing on the car that is original transmission wise. i CANNOT afford a 325 dollar Tick although i WISH i could. i was looking at a Ram adjustable master cylinder or a stock GM replacement. I WISH i could take this car to the strip but I dont race the car, occasionally i drive real hard in the back roads, heel toe downshifting, with clutch throttle upshifts but other than that i dont need a adjustable master unless you guys think its worth it. like i said, should i just get the GM performance parts peice that has the new braided line and the resivor or is that not neccesary?
when you try to put the car in gear with the clutch disengaged the car moves. plus you can hear the clutch spinning down when you try to get the car in first. you gotta put the car in first to spin the clutch down to get into reverse.
im pretty positive its the master because literally i spent about 3 grand on everything, shifter, Tranzilla T56 viper spec, and slave clyinder. MC is the only thing on the car that is original transmission wise. i CANNOT afford a 325 dollar Tick although i WISH i could. i was looking at a Ram adjustable master cylinder or a stock GM replacement. I WISH i could take this car to the strip but I dont race the car, occasionally i drive real hard in the back roads, heel toe downshifting, with clutch throttle upshifts but other than that i dont need a adjustable master unless you guys think its worth it. like i said, should i just get the GM performance parts peice that has the new braided line and the resivor or is that not neccesary?
Last edited by DaytonaBlues; 04-29-2013 at 05:07 AM.
04-29-2013, 09:54 AM
#4
The ram is just a modified gm style master it won't do anything except adjust that a stocker won't do. My advice is just get the cheapest master you can for like 70 bucks. You can reuse your reservoir and your steel line maybe do the drill mod while your at it. After that save your pennies for a tick and buy it when you can. It honestly makes driving the car that much more enjoyable and you can adjust the pedal to where you like it
04-29-2013, 10:03 AM
#5
Ah, gotcha. I don't think you want to buy a stock master cylinder. Sounds like your stock master can't push the pressure plate fingers in far enough to fully disengage the clutch. You'll want to get an adjustable one so you can adjust it to push the throwout bearing further in than the stock master can and completely disengage the clutch all the way.
I went with Tick's because it had nothing but good reviews and I could afford it. It's been pretty hit and miss with finding people complaining about other kinds of adjustable masters. Even saw a thread where a guy replaced his aftermarket adjustable master with a Tick because it was so bad.
I went with Tick's because it had nothing but good reviews and I could afford it. It's been pretty hit and miss with finding people complaining about other kinds of adjustable masters. Even saw a thread where a guy replaced his aftermarket adjustable master with a Tick because it was so bad.
04-29-2013, 10:12 AM
#6
Dude, you just spent 3K on all of this stuff, have two F-Bodies and a bike but can't afford a proper Master cylinder for less than $400? Wait until your next paycheck or whatever and do it right the first time! The GM CMC will only fail again and then you'll be tearing up what you just spent all of this money on.
04-30-2013, 07:04 AM
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Dude, you just spent 3K on all of this stuff, have two F-Bodies and a bike but can't afford a proper Master cylinder for less than $400? Wait until your next paycheck or whatever and do it right the first time! The GM CMC will only fail again and then you'll be tearing up what you just spent all of this money on.
. it is kinda my fault for trying to live where i live (gas here is $4.88 gallon and its seasonal). basically i wasnt expecting to spend my entire contents of my savings for a new transmission but i bought the BEST tranny i could afford, and now the Master cylinder is going bad after 14 years, NOT BAD its ORIGNAL. so no im not gonna spend $400 on a tick just yet..although it is dumb not too i agree. this car is daily drivin like a grandma and i need a normal Master cylinder.....for now of course.. Trending Topics
04-30-2013, 12:27 PM
#11
first of all, I lost a really really really good job during the 2008 crash, the 79 ive had since HIGH SCHOOL and its not even road legal, the bike has 26k miles on it and i cant exactly ride a crotch rocket with no exhaust and no lights at 4 am to work, AND all i can find for work right now is a 12/hr shithole. yes i technically have a bike and a second fbody, but they are gonna be sold soon. it is kinda my fault for trying to live where i live (gas here is $4.88 gallon and its seasonal). basically i wasnt expecting to spend my entire contents of my savings for a new transmission but i bought the BEST tranny i could afford, and now the Master cylinder is going bad after 14 years, NOT BAD its ORIGNAL. so no im not gonna spend $400 on a tick just yet..although it is dumb not too i agree. this car is daily drivin like a grandma and i need a normal Master cylinder.....for now of course..
. it is kinda my fault for trying to live where i live (gas here is $4.88 gallon and its seasonal). basically i wasnt expecting to spend my entire contents of my savings for a new transmission but i bought the BEST tranny i could afford, and now the Master cylinder is going bad after 14 years, NOT BAD its ORIGNAL. so no im not gonna spend $400 on a tick just yet..although it is dumb not too i agree. this car is daily drivin like a grandma and i need a normal Master cylinder.....for now of course..
04-30-2013, 01:08 PM
#12
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I did this mod 2 years ago and haven't had a problem yet. Pedal feels great and it is adjustable. Paid $100 for it used and another $30 for the rebuild kit.
Check it out
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-cylinder.html
Check it out
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-cylinder.html
04-30-2013, 02:01 PM
#13
Here's the question...do I spend the extra money and get the entire clutch master, get just the MC itself for half the money, or spend the $170 for a ram adjustable master cylinder which again, doesn't include the resivor or the braided line. I still don't know why I need to replace the resivor or the braided line..
Any advice??
Any advice??
A. you're willing to drill into your firewall and mod things a bit.
B. you're switching to a manual brake system (no booster to get in the way)
04-30-2013, 03:04 PM
#15
I've got the ram master. It hasn't given me any problems. Been using it for about two years. I had the same symtoms as you. The ram fixed it completely. Sure the tick master is much better but it's double the price. I shift effortlessly with a monster 4, ram master and a mgw shifter. The decisions yours
Also you can make an adjustable master really easy:
Threaded sleeve, a piece of all thread and a lock nut. One cut and two welds. This is what my ram looked like. Modified auto zone master
Also you can make an adjustable master really easy:
Threaded sleeve, a piece of all thread and a lock nut. One cut and two welds. This is what my ram looked like. Modified auto zone master
05-04-2013, 11:50 AM
#16
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ok, so with all this, what is the deal with these master cylinders on our cars??? the more i read into this the bigger deal it is to make SURE you run a Tick or maybe a custom CMC. i get why because the ticks are incrediblly built but do stock CMCs suck that much?
I do NOT ever powershift the car nor do I think ill end up on a 1/4 mile, perhaps a autoX or track day in the future so only abuse i put on mine is aggresive heel toe downshifting(im still trying to teach myself on the street) the stock CMC is still in my car and i can STILL shift fast enough to bark second, third however sucks though but the stock one is 13 years old and still is ok just worn the hell out.
i guess the question is, for track days, sustained hi rpm very aggresive pedal use the fluid in the CMC is gonna get hot?? im wondering if there is any concern for overheating the stuff. the Tick im sure is great for 1/4 mile at a time but id rather have three stock GM masters with a drill mod for spares then have one Tick with the REMOTE possibility of whats happened to me already; the bushing at the end that slips over the clutch pedal pin broke. how does the Tick attach to the clutch pedal? does the tick already have the "drill mod" done? (im sure it does but ill ask anyways") lots of questions old thread i know...lol
I do NOT ever powershift the car nor do I think ill end up on a 1/4 mile, perhaps a autoX or track day in the future so only abuse i put on mine is aggresive heel toe downshifting(im still trying to teach myself on the street) the stock CMC is still in my car and i can STILL shift fast enough to bark second, third however sucks though but the stock one is 13 years old and still is ok just worn the hell out.
i guess the question is, for track days, sustained hi rpm very aggresive pedal use the fluid in the CMC is gonna get hot?? im wondering if there is any concern for overheating the stuff. the Tick im sure is great for 1/4 mile at a time but id rather have three stock GM masters with a drill mod for spares then have one Tick with the REMOTE possibility of whats happened to me already; the bushing at the end that slips over the clutch pedal pin broke. how does the Tick attach to the clutch pedal? does the tick already have the "drill mod" done? (im sure it does but ill ask anyways") lots of questions old thread i know...lol
05-04-2013, 06:28 PM
#17
The main thing about the stock m/c is that its very small 3/4" bore just cant push enough fluid for high demand clutches and rpm shifts thus causing a "block" out of gear state. The tick solves this by using a 7/8" bore tilton unit.
When powershifting or getting on the car the stock m/c's restriction in the line prevents the fluid from returning to the m/c quick enough thus causing a limp pedal, this combined with the fact it is very undersized for the demands of a muscle car gives you the shitty pedal feel.
The fluid should never heat up enough to cause damage to the master so I wouldnt worry there and the tick comes with a lifetime warranty. If the car is your dd perhaps keep a stock one around as a spare but the tick will always be covered and you'd be hard pressed to find anyone with one that has had issues.
The tick attaches to the pedal just like a stock one does but has an adjustable rod so you will need to find a new plastic bushing. The guys at tick may also be able to help there too. The Tick also doesnt need the drill mod. It comes with a much larger 3/8" line for fluid travel and has no restriction in it.
I'll tell you this, when i first did my m6 swap I had a brand new gm master and no matter how many times I bled it, I just couldn't get it to shift into 3rd like I wanted. After that one started leaking I decided to just get a tick and it instantly solved my 3rd gear issue and I could adjust the pedal to wherever I want.
When powershifting or getting on the car the stock m/c's restriction in the line prevents the fluid from returning to the m/c quick enough thus causing a limp pedal, this combined with the fact it is very undersized for the demands of a muscle car gives you the shitty pedal feel.
The fluid should never heat up enough to cause damage to the master so I wouldnt worry there and the tick comes with a lifetime warranty. If the car is your dd perhaps keep a stock one around as a spare but the tick will always be covered and you'd be hard pressed to find anyone with one that has had issues.
The tick attaches to the pedal just like a stock one does but has an adjustable rod so you will need to find a new plastic bushing. The guys at tick may also be able to help there too. The Tick also doesnt need the drill mod. It comes with a much larger 3/8" line for fluid travel and has no restriction in it.
I'll tell you this, when i first did my m6 swap I had a brand new gm master and no matter how many times I bled it, I just couldn't get it to shift into 3rd like I wanted. After that one started leaking I decided to just get a tick and it instantly solved my 3rd gear issue and I could adjust the pedal to wherever I want.
05-05-2013, 07:35 PM
#18
The main thing about the stock m/c is that its very small 3/4" bore just cant push enough fluid for high demand clutches and rpm shifts thus causing a "block" out of gear state. The tick solves this by using a 7/8" bore tilton unit.
When powershifting or getting on the car the stock m/c's restriction in the line prevents the fluid from returning to the m/c quick enough thus causing a limp pedal, this combined with the fact it is very undersized for the demands of a muscle car gives you the shitty pedal feel.
The fluid should never heat up enough to cause damage to the master so I wouldnt worry there and the tick comes with a lifetime warranty. If the car is your dd perhaps keep a stock one around as a spare but the tick will always be covered and you'd be hard pressed to find anyone with one that has had issues.
The tick attaches to the pedal just like a stock one does but has an adjustable rod so you will need to find a new plastic bushing. The guys at tick may also be able to help there too. The Tick also doesnt need the drill mod. It comes with a much larger 3/8" line for fluid travel and has no restriction in it.
I'll tell you this, when i first did my m6 swap I had a brand new gm master and no matter how many times I bled it, I just couldn't get it to shift into 3rd like I wanted. After that one started leaking I decided to just get a tick and it instantly solved my 3rd gear issue and I could adjust the pedal to wherever I want.
When powershifting or getting on the car the stock m/c's restriction in the line prevents the fluid from returning to the m/c quick enough thus causing a limp pedal, this combined with the fact it is very undersized for the demands of a muscle car gives you the shitty pedal feel.
The fluid should never heat up enough to cause damage to the master so I wouldnt worry there and the tick comes with a lifetime warranty. If the car is your dd perhaps keep a stock one around as a spare but the tick will always be covered and you'd be hard pressed to find anyone with one that has had issues.
The tick attaches to the pedal just like a stock one does but has an adjustable rod so you will need to find a new plastic bushing. The guys at tick may also be able to help there too. The Tick also doesnt need the drill mod. It comes with a much larger 3/8" line for fluid travel and has no restriction in it.
I'll tell you this, when i first did my m6 swap I had a brand new gm master and no matter how many times I bled it, I just couldn't get it to shift into 3rd like I wanted. After that one started leaking I decided to just get a tick and it instantly solved my 3rd gear issue and I could adjust the pedal to wherever I want.
05-05-2013, 07:52 PM
#19
to be honest once I noticed mine doing it I knew what the ssue was and never really tried to push it. But I imagine that if you did try to nail 3rd and the clutch wasnt fully disengaging you may experience a grind. the other option is your synchro is going out but if it only does it sometimes then i would say its the m/c's fault
