Canada

iTrader: (2)

So I see a bunch of guys just throw parts at their car and hope it goes fast and if it doesn't run fast enough for them they throw more power at it. Well throwing more power isn't always an answer since they don't look at the real problem. A lot of GTO setups I see issues with people skipping suspension and a4 guys not going with stalls and asking why their times suck. I haven't raced my car since I took the bolt on GTO record back in October 2010 and was planning for the cam only record before a intake valve snapped and took out my piston and then cracked the block. Talk about bad luck. Car is almost put back together but it's taking a long time. Literally optimizing the car around certain parts on the car to get the most I can out of this setup. There was a discussion tonight on a car group page on FB and I dug out my old time slip and thought I'd share it to show some of the newer guys how fast these cars can actually be.

Weight Reduction: Took out rear seat, passenger seat, fuel tank brace, toe brace, skid plate, spare tire junk, used the spares as skinnies up front. Also my aftermarket mufflers and headers weighed less than stock exhaust parts and my carbon fiber DS weighed less than stock and also took out the hp robbing stock DS. I cut a 1.58 60ft and ran 11.71 @115.

This time around its taken awhile but I spec'd out a perfect combo around what I have and think this 408 will run its *** off. Also swapping out rear suspension to try and dial in that a little better. For those of you that want proof here is the time slip. I was in the right lane. Hopefully soon I can get the car finished and get a new slip to post up that will show me deep 10's.

http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Cli...tml?sort=3&o=0

AWD

iTrader: (1)

What rear gear and tire are you using?

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

I agree some seem to take the throw parts at it approach. I think first you have to be certain of what you want to optimize your car for. I spent a ton of money on "non-power" stuff like suspension because I wanted the best all around touring car. That's what it's used for 99% of the time. A similar thing is peak HP. Peak numbers make for a great e-***** but usually happen around 6,000 RPM. The entire torque band you intend to use is equally important especially for auto-cross or roll racing.

Canada

iTrader: (2)

3.91 and m/t drag radial. That was right after i got off the hwy, about a 30 min drive, cruised through tech and right in line. Jerry you know I'm crunched for time this season with my surgery so I"m going to see if the coilovers for the rear will actually help lower my times than the setup that is currently back there. THought about it the other day since i dont have time/nor money since I can't work on it anymore to do the suspension swap before surgery.

speedygoatzales

I agree with everything said. Look at my car 375whp and 11.91 @ 112 and guess what I have full interior. Only things missing are tank brace and spare tire. Cutting 1.54's on 235/60/15 M/T's. It is all about how you use what power you have

Had a GT500 guy ask about my car at the track the other day and was amazed by the 60's i was cutting. I told him the best thing he could do would be to get some smaller wheels and bias-ply slicks. with a stick that is the way to go.

I have just enough power that on a decently prepped track my car is a monster off the line.

Super Goat

Those are impressive times. Who makes the 3.91 gears?

speedygoatzales

I got my gears from a buddy. But you can get them from Geforce1320.

Canada

iTrader: (2)

Mine are factory GM 3.91 gears. You can get them from gfroce1320. Motive now makes a set that are cheaper but he still carries the GM ones. They came in the Vauxhall model.

Dyno Junkie

Factory gears in the HSV GTS that came with Callaway C4B engine.

gconnoyer

iTrader: (1)

you have a NW 102 TB...thats a part your throw at it lol

Canada

iTrader: (2)

If you run a 100mm maf, otrcai inlet was 100mm (new one is 102mm ID) and the fast lsx-r with its 102mm intake, why restrict any of that air movement with a stock tb? I was going for the bolt on record so everything I could do to get to that was done. Goal was accomplished and still stands today at #2 behind TomCats gutted out run. Like to have a fast car that looks good but also comfortable. So I'll take a big comfy gto seat and my double din navigation head unit. Car may have ran faster but just made two passes that night and then it was torn down for a cam only record attempt that ended up in building a hefty 408. Hopefully we get some good n/a runs this season before we go all out next season.

Now with the 408 the fast was port matched to the heads along with opening up the runners, svede swapped for Duspeed mainly for looks but we shall see if there is performance gains and the maf now sits in the DuSpeed so everything is 102mm ID. Exhaust got upgraded to a 3" catback and mid pipes that no longer bottle kneck down at the end to bolt to the stock catback. Also have stronger toe rods to help with the flex during the launch and then a coil over setup so I can really dial in the rear. Also have billet inner and outer stubs and stronger half shafts going into a spool. New setup should have a lot of torque and as long as the tires hook the rest of the setup should hold up which is going to make for a fun ride.

Biggest thing this season is getting the rear suspension dialed in and knocking out some good n/a times. Also reducing the weight of the car and driver to help with how heavy this car is and to offset the weight added to the front by going with an iron block.

Dyno Junkie

I just don't understand why you still use a MAF in a performance build.

Even our daily driver manual GTO has a MAFLESS tune.

gconnoyer

iTrader: (1)

Because there isnt any real reason to switch to an SD tune. Nothing wrong with a GOOD SD tune at all.
Its not like the MAF is a restriction (especially if you waste money on a 100mm just to say "I have a 100mm maf")
And its not like his car will flow more than the MAF can handle.

What is the benefit of having and SD tune vs a MAF tune in the 500whp power level?

Dyno Junkie

MAFLESS tune has a lot quicker throttle response.

Canada

iTrader: (2)

I don't have a problem with throttle response, this thing is very touchy at that. The weather here can and frequently will change over 40* from the time I walk into work and walk out. Using a cartridge style maf so I can make it into any size without being a restriction by just cutting a little slice in the intake for the maf to slide into it. Stock maf wont work on this setup and also bottle necked the original setup. Cartridge style maf allows it to be very flexible. I'm not flowing more air than the ls3 maf can handle so its the ideal setup. Lot easier for me to take this to someone to have tune instead of having to constantly make changes on the sd tune.

Canada

iTrader: (2)

You have to run the ls3 cartridge maf on a DuSpeed also unless you want to do an sd tune but lot easier to have a maf, now if it ever became a restriction I'd maybe look into SD but no point when the maf housing is as big as you want to make the pipe it sits in.