Installed my Tick Master Cylinder/ Monster Stg 1 Clutch, Very Happy!
05-08-2013, 02:09 PM
#1
Installed my Tick Master Cylinder/ Monster Stg 1 Clutch, Very Happy! First of all I'd like to thank Monster Clutches and Tick Performance for some of the best perfomance parts available for our cars to date.
I've been through quite the shifting fiasco the last 5 years since I bought my bone stock 2000 Trans Am M6. If you have some time feel free too read. I'll make it was short as possible.
Bought my TA in 2008 bone stock besides a cat back. When I test drove it the clutch pedal felt a little soft and seemed to hesitate to come all the way back up. If I pumped the clutch pedal a bunch it would bring the clutch pedal back to life. Pedal would get nice and firm and felt normal, but after 10min of driving would get soft again. Also, when shifting at 5-6k rpms the pedal would sink to the floor, shifting would get notchy or I'd get locked out of gear completely. Figured it just needed to be bled.
Took the car home and did a sh*t ton of research on LS1tech, read through all the stickies, searched through thread after thread of people having the same problem as me. Up to that point the concensus was all the same.
-Bled the clutch, if that doesn't work...
-Replace the Master Cylinder, if that doesn't work...
-Pull the trans and replace the slave, if that doesn't work...
-Pull the Master again and do the drill mod
Well, I did all of these. First I bled the clutch every way possible. Mitivac, gravity method, traditional, nothing helped. Clutch pedal was still soft and only returned 3/4 of the way up unless I pumped the clutch pedal a bunch, then it became a little more firm but I was still getting locked out of gear at high rpms. Any shifting under 5,000 rpms was great though. Decided it was time to bite the bullet and replace my master cylinder. Did the replacement, bled it, still the same thing, ugh...
Next, it had to be the slave right? I've replaced the master cylinder, bled it every way possible. Dropped the trans, replaced the slave, got everything back together, and the clutch pedal is still soft and I'm still getting locked out of gear. Last ditch effort, the drill mod. Do I think it will fix my problems? Not really, but I'm praying for a miracle. Pull the master, do the drill mod, get everything back in, and still the same crap, eehh....
So for years I put up with it as life gets in the way, money problems come up ect... So these last few months come up and I have two choices. I can either buy a Tick Master Cylinder to see if it solves my problem, or buy a new clutch to rule out the stock GM self adjusting pressure plate being he problem the whole time. Well, my brother has been having the same issues of getting locked out of gear in his 2001 TA. He does all the same stuff as me, replaces the master, does the drill mod, replaces the slave, and still gets locked out of gear at 5,000+ rpms. We talk for a while and we decide it's the stock GM pressure plate that's the whole problem for us and everyone else. Because why are there so many people that run their stock hydraulics with an aftermarket clutch and can shift at redline, right?
My brother buys a stage 2 Monster clutch and after the break in period takes it down our usual racing spot and for the first time since buying his car he can bang through all the gears flawlessly at redline. No limp/spongey clutch pedal sinking to the floor, no notchy ness, no getting locked out of gear, it's solved all of our problems! It was the self adjusting pressure plate all along! So I order my Monster clutch kit and get it installed. On the directions sheet it says there is no need for a shim with their kit. Should I have measured anyway just to be safe? Yeah, in hind sight I know I should have now. You always should no matter what. All cars are different and have different tolerances ect...
Well, the install goes great! I get the clutch and everything installed, hydraulics bled, couldn't have gone better. Clutch pedal feels nice and firm, comes all the way back up to the top, no soft/spongey pedal only coming 3/4 of the way back up. So I push in the clutch pedal, put it into gear (which is a little notchy), and when I start to release the clutch pedal it starts to engage almost right off the floor, crap. I pump the pedal a bit, take it out for a drive and all the gears are notchier to get into than before the clutch install. And the clutch engaging right off the floor tells me right away that the throw out bearing can't reach far enough to push the pressure plate fingers in all the way to fully disengage the clutch. I prey it just needs to be re-bled and there is just air in the lines or something. I go back home and bleed, and bleed. Clutch pedal feels great, nice and firm, take it out for a drive again, still engaging right off the floor and gears are notchy to get into. I go and do the rev test and it creeps forward in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed and reving it to 5500rpms. Darn it, I should have measured for a shim.
At this point I have two options. I can pull the entire trans down and measure for the appropriate shim and hope it works, or I can buy the Tick Master Cylinder and adjust it perfectly. I didn't want to spend the $325, but on the other hand what if I pull the trans, order and install the shim, and it turns out it's still a bit notchy and a needed a slightly thicker shim than the one I ordered to make it better. Also, what if the Monster pressure plate fingers are so much firmer than the stock PP fingers that the stock master, even with a shim, just doesn't have the gusto to push those stiffer than stock PP fingers in far enough? My brother's works fine but different parts have different tolerances ect... There was just too many what if's with the shim route so I ordered the Tick master.
Just got it installed yesterday. Very nice unit and was surprisingly easier to install than the stock unit! Took me about 30min to pull out the stock master and about an hour to an hour and a half to get the Tick in and bled and everything. I adjusted the clutch pedal at first as per the directions to about halfway between the brake pedal height and the floor. It seems very low at this point but it says to start off at a low point and work your way up as to not over extend the PP fingers unnecessarily.
Started up the car in neutral, pushed in the clutch pedal which is quite more firm than stock, and tried to get it into 1st gear as per the instructions. It was a little notchy, tried 2nd and 3rd gear as well, kinda notchy, and reverse was difficult to get into. I turn the car off, and adjust the pedal a little higher (two complete turns of the turn buckle as per the directions) and try it again. This time the notchiness is almost completely gone and reverse isn't hard to get into like before, just a little notchy. At this point the pedal is about 1 inch away from the height of the brake pedal. I remember seeing a few threads where guys ended up adjusting their clutch pedals to about the height of the brake pedal and liking it there so I kept that in mind. I adjust the master a few more turns and now the clutch pedal is just about the height of the brake pedal, but just a tad lower. I'd say about a 1/4 inch lower than the brake pedal. I start the car, push in the clutch and it goes into all the gears perfectly! Very smooth, reverse slides in well, I think I like it here!
I go for a drive at this point and it's great. I'm still in the 500 mile clutch break in period but my car is actually shifting now! No more soft/spongey clutch pedal. No more having to pump it to make it feel normal. I'm very happy. Shifting feels really nice and reverse is easy to get into. For now I'll keep driving the car to finish the break in period (I'm 100 miles in now), but for now it's great.
Through all the crap I went through over all of these years, if I had any advice for someone having shifting problems with the stock hydraulics (that are working properly) and stock clutch, it would be...
-Get rid of your stock clutch, even if it's not slipping that self adjusting pressure plate is an absolute nightmare. It fails at high rpms, works and then doesn't work erradically, wait for a Monster Clutch sale and get a kit. A stage one Monster clutch kit at the very least is only $500 shipped during the sales!
-Don't waste $100 on a new master cylinder, doing the drill mod, and buying a shim/shims and just put that $100 towards the Tick Master. There won't be any guessing, having to pull the entire trans down again to change to another shim if the first shim didn't work good enough ect... And the Tick has a lifetime warranty I believe. How many people have failed stock master cylinders that start leaking? Worth the extra $200 IMO.
Anyway, that's my story. Maybe someone can read this and get some insight on what they are going through and not have to go through the absolute nightmare I've dealt with the last few years. If you guys have any questions about installing a clutch or a new master let me know. Here are my install videos for reference. Oh, and I love my Stage 1 Monster with the lightweight flywheel. It drives like stock and there is no chatter.
I've been through quite the shifting fiasco the last 5 years since I bought my bone stock 2000 Trans Am M6. If you have some time feel free too read. I'll make it was short as possible.
Bought my TA in 2008 bone stock besides a cat back. When I test drove it the clutch pedal felt a little soft and seemed to hesitate to come all the way back up. If I pumped the clutch pedal a bunch it would bring the clutch pedal back to life. Pedal would get nice and firm and felt normal, but after 10min of driving would get soft again. Also, when shifting at 5-6k rpms the pedal would sink to the floor, shifting would get notchy or I'd get locked out of gear completely. Figured it just needed to be bled.
Took the car home and did a sh*t ton of research on LS1tech, read through all the stickies, searched through thread after thread of people having the same problem as me. Up to that point the concensus was all the same.
-Bled the clutch, if that doesn't work...
-Replace the Master Cylinder, if that doesn't work...
-Pull the trans and replace the slave, if that doesn't work...
-Pull the Master again and do the drill mod
Well, I did all of these. First I bled the clutch every way possible. Mitivac, gravity method, traditional, nothing helped. Clutch pedal was still soft and only returned 3/4 of the way up unless I pumped the clutch pedal a bunch, then it became a little more firm but I was still getting locked out of gear at high rpms. Any shifting under 5,000 rpms was great though. Decided it was time to bite the bullet and replace my master cylinder. Did the replacement, bled it, still the same thing, ugh...
Next, it had to be the slave right? I've replaced the master cylinder, bled it every way possible. Dropped the trans, replaced the slave, got everything back together, and the clutch pedal is still soft and I'm still getting locked out of gear. Last ditch effort, the drill mod. Do I think it will fix my problems? Not really, but I'm praying for a miracle. Pull the master, do the drill mod, get everything back in, and still the same crap, eehh....
So for years I put up with it as life gets in the way, money problems come up ect... So these last few months come up and I have two choices. I can either buy a Tick Master Cylinder to see if it solves my problem, or buy a new clutch to rule out the stock GM self adjusting pressure plate being he problem the whole time. Well, my brother has been having the same issues of getting locked out of gear in his 2001 TA. He does all the same stuff as me, replaces the master, does the drill mod, replaces the slave, and still gets locked out of gear at 5,000+ rpms. We talk for a while and we decide it's the stock GM pressure plate that's the whole problem for us and everyone else. Because why are there so many people that run their stock hydraulics with an aftermarket clutch and can shift at redline, right?
My brother buys a stage 2 Monster clutch and after the break in period takes it down our usual racing spot and for the first time since buying his car he can bang through all the gears flawlessly at redline. No limp/spongey clutch pedal sinking to the floor, no notchy ness, no getting locked out of gear, it's solved all of our problems! It was the self adjusting pressure plate all along! So I order my Monster clutch kit and get it installed. On the directions sheet it says there is no need for a shim with their kit. Should I have measured anyway just to be safe? Yeah, in hind sight I know I should have now. You always should no matter what. All cars are different and have different tolerances ect...
Well, the install goes great! I get the clutch and everything installed, hydraulics bled, couldn't have gone better. Clutch pedal feels nice and firm, comes all the way back up to the top, no soft/spongey pedal only coming 3/4 of the way back up. So I push in the clutch pedal, put it into gear (which is a little notchy), and when I start to release the clutch pedal it starts to engage almost right off the floor, crap. I pump the pedal a bit, take it out for a drive and all the gears are notchier to get into than before the clutch install. And the clutch engaging right off the floor tells me right away that the throw out bearing can't reach far enough to push the pressure plate fingers in all the way to fully disengage the clutch. I prey it just needs to be re-bled and there is just air in the lines or something. I go back home and bleed, and bleed. Clutch pedal feels great, nice and firm, take it out for a drive again, still engaging right off the floor and gears are notchy to get into. I go and do the rev test and it creeps forward in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed and reving it to 5500rpms. Darn it, I should have measured for a shim.
At this point I have two options. I can pull the entire trans down and measure for the appropriate shim and hope it works, or I can buy the Tick Master Cylinder and adjust it perfectly. I didn't want to spend the $325, but on the other hand what if I pull the trans, order and install the shim, and it turns out it's still a bit notchy and a needed a slightly thicker shim than the one I ordered to make it better. Also, what if the Monster pressure plate fingers are so much firmer than the stock PP fingers that the stock master, even with a shim, just doesn't have the gusto to push those stiffer than stock PP fingers in far enough? My brother's works fine but different parts have different tolerances ect... There was just too many what if's with the shim route so I ordered the Tick master.
Just got it installed yesterday. Very nice unit and was surprisingly easier to install than the stock unit! Took me about 30min to pull out the stock master and about an hour to an hour and a half to get the Tick in and bled and everything. I adjusted the clutch pedal at first as per the directions to about halfway between the brake pedal height and the floor. It seems very low at this point but it says to start off at a low point and work your way up as to not over extend the PP fingers unnecessarily.
Started up the car in neutral, pushed in the clutch pedal which is quite more firm than stock, and tried to get it into 1st gear as per the instructions. It was a little notchy, tried 2nd and 3rd gear as well, kinda notchy, and reverse was difficult to get into. I turn the car off, and adjust the pedal a little higher (two complete turns of the turn buckle as per the directions) and try it again. This time the notchiness is almost completely gone and reverse isn't hard to get into like before, just a little notchy. At this point the pedal is about 1 inch away from the height of the brake pedal. I remember seeing a few threads where guys ended up adjusting their clutch pedals to about the height of the brake pedal and liking it there so I kept that in mind. I adjust the master a few more turns and now the clutch pedal is just about the height of the brake pedal, but just a tad lower. I'd say about a 1/4 inch lower than the brake pedal. I start the car, push in the clutch and it goes into all the gears perfectly! Very smooth, reverse slides in well, I think I like it here!
I go for a drive at this point and it's great. I'm still in the 500 mile clutch break in period but my car is actually shifting now! No more soft/spongey clutch pedal. No more having to pump it to make it feel normal. I'm very happy. Shifting feels really nice and reverse is easy to get into. For now I'll keep driving the car to finish the break in period (I'm 100 miles in now), but for now it's great.
Through all the crap I went through over all of these years, if I had any advice for someone having shifting problems with the stock hydraulics (that are working properly) and stock clutch, it would be...
-Get rid of your stock clutch, even if it's not slipping that self adjusting pressure plate is an absolute nightmare. It fails at high rpms, works and then doesn't work erradically, wait for a Monster Clutch sale and get a kit. A stage one Monster clutch kit at the very least is only $500 shipped during the sales!
-Don't waste $100 on a new master cylinder, doing the drill mod, and buying a shim/shims and just put that $100 towards the Tick Master. There won't be any guessing, having to pull the entire trans down again to change to another shim if the first shim didn't work good enough ect... And the Tick has a lifetime warranty I believe. How many people have failed stock master cylinders that start leaking? Worth the extra $200 IMO.
Anyway, that's my story. Maybe someone can read this and get some insight on what they are going through and not have to go through the absolute nightmare I've dealt with the last few years. If you guys have any questions about installing a clutch or a new master let me know. Here are my install videos for reference. Oh, and I love my Stage 1 Monster with the lightweight flywheel. It drives like stock and there is no chatter.
Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 05-08-2013 at 02:44 PM.
05-09-2013, 02:46 PM
#2
TECH Apprentice
Stage 3 28lbs fllywheel On a stock motor here(headers, exhaust only).
i'm happy if it stops squealing like a pig, installed since May 2012.
i'm still pleased i can feel it pull my car to the front when shifting.
i've also got the Tick master cylinder, got a new slave installed with the install of the clutch (all done same time)
i had a sticky pedal.
i have one question, my brother too has the tick master cylinder and he adjusted it to the point of this:
if you move your knee it will move ! it seriously doesn't even tolerate 0.2mm of lift, it will engage!
he has 3 problems
difficulty shifting to reverse or any gear.
ever since his diff+drift shaft break on the strip (the shaft literally turned on itself & the diff had dozens of metal ants in it),now when shifting to 2nd,3rd,4th.
(2nd: it barely accepts it, spits right out and starts a grinding noise)
(3rd: sometimes grinds sometimes doesn't)
(4th: you'll feel it hit something then go in)
i must point out that his used differential replacement had a 2.73 ratio while the comp is still tuned at 3.73.
i'm starting to think it won't accept the 2nd gear shift cause the rpm will simply drop below 0 but hey i don't know.
he also has a hurst shifter that we yesterday had inspected and fixed some spring issue (lag's), that's why we're pulling my pro5.0 to test.
i'm happy if it stops squealing like a pig, installed since May 2012.
i'm still pleased i can feel it pull my car to the front when shifting.
i've also got the Tick master cylinder, got a new slave installed with the install of the clutch (all done same time)
i had a sticky pedal.
i have one question, my brother too has the tick master cylinder and he adjusted it to the point of this:
if you move your knee it will move ! it seriously doesn't even tolerate 0.2mm of lift, it will engage!
he has 3 problems
difficulty shifting to reverse or any gear.
ever since his diff+drift shaft break on the strip (the shaft literally turned on itself & the diff had dozens of metal ants in it),now when shifting to 2nd,3rd,4th.
(2nd: it barely accepts it, spits right out and starts a grinding noise)
(3rd: sometimes grinds sometimes doesn't)
(4th: you'll feel it hit something then go in)
i must point out that his used differential replacement had a 2.73 ratio while the comp is still tuned at 3.73.
i'm starting to think it won't accept the 2nd gear shift cause the rpm will simply drop below 0 but hey i don't know.
he also has a hurst shifter that we yesterday had inspected and fixed some spring issue (lag's), that's why we're pulling my pro5.0 to test.
Last edited by AmDWs6; 05-09-2013 at 02:58 PM. Reason: added ton's of blaa
05-09-2013, 03:52 PM
#3
^^^I have the tick in my C5Z, took a little time for me to install and adjust...just trial and error.
In any event it sounds like your brothers is not adjusted correctly, it should not be engaging right off the floor with the slightest movement of your foot/knee. He needs to adjust that rod out to allow for some pedal travel, there is no way he is getting full engagement of the clutch, thus the hard shift issues etc. If there is no adjustment left in the rod on the Tick MX, then the slave cylinder may be shimmed incorrectly.
In any event it sounds like your brothers is not adjusted correctly, it should not be engaging right off the floor with the slightest movement of your foot/knee. He needs to adjust that rod out to allow for some pedal travel, there is no way he is getting full engagement of the clutch, thus the hard shift issues etc. If there is no adjustment left in the rod on the Tick MX, then the slave cylinder may be shimmed incorrectly.
05-09-2013, 03:58 PM
#4
I think I may have explained it wrong. It was engaging off the floor when I had my stock master cylinder. That's why I bought the Tick Master. It's all good now.
For some reason though my brother has the stock Master cylinder and his is fine. Not sure why mine needed a shim or adjustable master cylinder.
For some reason though my brother has the stock Master cylinder and his is fine. Not sure why mine needed a shim or adjustable master cylinder.
ah...the infamous ninja edit! Trending Topics
05-10-2013, 01:58 PM
#8
Stage 3 28lbs fllywheel On a stock motor here(headers, exhaust only).
i'm happy if it stops squealing like a pig, installed since May 2012.
i'm still pleased i can feel it pull my car to the front when shifting.
i've also got the Tick master cylinder, got a new slave installed with the install of the clutch (all done same time)
i had a sticky pedal.
i have one question, my brother too has the tick master cylinder and he adjusted it to the point of this:
if you move your knee it will move ! it seriously doesn't even tolerate 0.2mm of lift, it will engage!
he has 3 problems
difficulty shifting to reverse or any gear.
ever since his diff+drift shaft break on the strip (the shaft literally turned on itself & the diff had dozens of metal ants in it),now when shifting to 2nd,3rd,4th.
(2nd: it barely accepts it, spits right out and starts a grinding noise)
(3rd: sometimes grinds sometimes doesn't)
(4th: you'll feel it hit something then go in)
i must point out that his used differential replacement had a 2.73 ratio while the comp is still tuned at 3.73.
i'm starting to think it won't accept the 2nd gear shift cause the rpm will simply drop below 0 but hey i don't know.
he also has a hurst shifter that we yesterday had inspected and fixed some spring issue (lag's), that's why we're pulling my pro5.0 to test.
i'm happy if it stops squealing like a pig, installed since May 2012.
i'm still pleased i can feel it pull my car to the front when shifting.
i've also got the Tick master cylinder, got a new slave installed with the install of the clutch (all done same time)
i had a sticky pedal.
i have one question, my brother too has the tick master cylinder and he adjusted it to the point of this:
if you move your knee it will move ! it seriously doesn't even tolerate 0.2mm of lift, it will engage!
he has 3 problems
difficulty shifting to reverse or any gear.
ever since his diff+drift shaft break on the strip (the shaft literally turned on itself & the diff had dozens of metal ants in it),now when shifting to 2nd,3rd,4th.
(2nd: it barely accepts it, spits right out and starts a grinding noise)
(3rd: sometimes grinds sometimes doesn't)
(4th: you'll feel it hit something then go in)
i must point out that his used differential replacement had a 2.73 ratio while the comp is still tuned at 3.73.
i'm starting to think it won't accept the 2nd gear shift cause the rpm will simply drop below 0 but hey i don't know.
he also has a hurst shifter that we yesterday had inspected and fixed some spring issue (lag's), that's why we're pulling my pro5.0 to test.
In short, adjust the pedal up.
05-10-2013, 02:02 PM
#9
With the pedal a full inch below the brake pedal height I could feel a tiny bit of notchiness when shifting. When I went to the level of the brake pedal it seemed perfect shifting wise, and now with it at a 1/4 inch lower than the brake pedal height it still feels perfect so I'm happy with it there.
Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 05-10-2013 at 02:09 PM.
05-10-2013, 10:41 PM
#10
TECH Apprentice
i'm sorry but i have to say here that this completely doesn't seem to be the issue, i mean the whole shifting part is rigid, rough, tough. the car has no power steering my brother canceled it & oh please don't ask why LOL, but, it just seem's totally unlinked. i'll adjust the master myself after a couple of hours, if that doesn't help. i'll open up a thread instead of hijacking this 1.
05-12-2013, 02:08 AM
#11
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Just wanted to say thanks for the write up and the videos. I was going to install a Monster Clutch too, but then my clutch pedal really started acting up. As was the problem with you, mine engages right off the floor, the clutch grips well, but shifting is notchy and it is hard to drive the car smooth this way. The problem got worse and worse so I stopped driving the car all together and ordered the Tick Master. Yesterday I started the car and let a friend try the clutch pedal and he was amazed how terrible it feels. Gears are hard to engage, and I am locked out of reverse completely.
I really hope the Tick will fix all this and that I can use my clutch a few more miles before replacing it. The car is 98 with just over 80k easy driven miles on it (never saw the drag strip and I doubt it saw redline for more than 10 seconds in its entire life)
Thanks again for all the info and wish me luck, getting the Tick installed on Tuesday!
I really hope the Tick will fix all this and that I can use my clutch a few more miles before replacing it. The car is 98 with just over 80k easy driven miles on it (never saw the drag strip and I doubt it saw redline for more than 10 seconds in its entire life)
Thanks again for all the info and wish me luck, getting the Tick installed on Tuesday!
05-12-2013, 03:58 AM
#12
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I have the Monster stage 2, 18lbs flywheel, and Tick Master in my c5 and it's the best thing I've ever done. I'd recommend this setup before any others on a stock to mildly head/cam car. I was having the same issues and come to find out my master, slave, and of course the self adjusting pressure plate were all shot lol. I guess at 90,000 miles they were all original though.
05-12-2013, 09:49 AM
#13
Just wanted to say thanks for the write up and the videos. I was going to install a Monster Clutch too, but then my clutch pedal really started acting up. As was the problem with you, mine engages right off the floor, the clutch grips well, but shifting is notchy and it is hard to drive the car smooth this way. The problem got worse and worse so I stopped driving the car all together and ordered the Tick Master. Yesterday I started the car and let a friend try the clutch pedal and he was amazed how terrible it feels. Gears are hard to engage, and I am locked out of reverse completely.
I really hope the Tick will fix all this and that I can use my clutch a few more miles before replacing it. The car is 98 with just over 80k easy driven miles on it (never saw the drag strip and I doubt it saw redline for more than 10 seconds in its entire life)
Thanks again for all the info and wish me luck, getting the Tick installed on Tuesday!
I really hope the Tick will fix all this and that I can use my clutch a few more miles before replacing it. The car is 98 with just over 80k easy driven miles on it (never saw the drag strip and I doubt it saw redline for more than 10 seconds in its entire life)
Thanks again for all the info and wish me luck, getting the Tick installed on Tuesday!
05-12-2013, 01:57 PM
#14
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I hope my slave is still ok. Don't really want to pull the tranny just for that and don't have the funds to shell out on the clutch as well. I am freaking antsy, hope the tick does it, getting tired of just driving my truck every day.
Update coming on Tuesday if all goes according to plan.
Update coming on Tuesday if all goes according to plan.
05-14-2013, 10:21 AM
#16
Blue Knight,
What an AWESOME write up!!! It's great to know that you're enjoying our products as much as you are! Being able to properly shift your vehicle is Tick Performance's(and Monsters) number ONE priority! If you cannot enjoy your 6 speed and rowing gears, what is the point in even having one!!!
I had a customer the other day who was so fed up, exasperated and tired of his 6 speed and being locked out of gear that he was going to sell his car and/or do a TH400 swap in it and make it into a race car. I told him that I could not 100% guarantee that our master cylinder would fix the problem and that I couldn't give him a refund on the product either. After a few more exchanged PM's he jumped in on a leap of faith and purchased our master cylinder. After he get it installed, bled and adjusted properly he was so happy that he was finally able to shift his car that he sent me probably a page long thank you, thanking us for making such a great product.
It's reviews like this one, and the messages that I get like that, that let's us as a manufacturer and shop know that we are doing something right. We want every single customer to be as happy as you are with our products.
What an AWESOME write up!!! It's great to know that you're enjoying our products as much as you are! Being able to properly shift your vehicle is Tick Performance's(and Monsters) number ONE priority! If you cannot enjoy your 6 speed and rowing gears, what is the point in even having one!!!
I had a customer the other day who was so fed up, exasperated and tired of his 6 speed and being locked out of gear that he was going to sell his car and/or do a TH400 swap in it and make it into a race car. I told him that I could not 100% guarantee that our master cylinder would fix the problem and that I couldn't give him a refund on the product either. After a few more exchanged PM's he jumped in on a leap of faith and purchased our master cylinder. After he get it installed, bled and adjusted properly he was so happy that he was finally able to shift his car that he sent me probably a page long thank you, thanking us for making such a great product.
It's reviews like this one, and the messages that I get like that, that let's us as a manufacturer and shop know that we are doing something right. We want every single customer to be as happy as you are with our products.
05-15-2013, 04:01 PM
#18
I didn't. But I saw a few pics of other people's flywheels that looked the same. I'm assuming as the clutch is slipped and the flywheel and pressure plate heat up, the hot spots develop.
Thanks guys. I hope the videos can give confidence to some people to do it themselves.
Blue Knight,
What an AWESOME write up!!! It's great to know that you're enjoying our products as much as you are! Being able to properly shift your vehicle is Tick Performance's(and Monsters) number ONE priority! If you cannot enjoy your 6 speed and rowing gears, what is the point in even having one!!!
I had a customer the other day who was so fed up, exasperated and tired of his 6 speed and being locked out of gear that he was going to sell his car and/or do a TH400 swap in it and make it into a race car. I told him that I could not 100% guarantee that our master cylinder would fix the problem and that I couldn't give him a refund on the product either. After a few more exchanged PM's he jumped in on a leap of faith and purchased our master cylinder. After he get it installed, bled and adjusted properly he was so happy that he was finally able to shift his car that he sent me probably a page long thank you, thanking us for making such a great product.
It's reviews like this one, and the messages that I get like that, that let's us as a manufacturer and shop know that we are doing something right. We want every single customer to be as happy as you are with our products.
What an AWESOME write up!!! It's great to know that you're enjoying our products as much as you are! Being able to properly shift your vehicle is Tick Performance's(and Monsters) number ONE priority! If you cannot enjoy your 6 speed and rowing gears, what is the point in even having one!!!
I had a customer the other day who was so fed up, exasperated and tired of his 6 speed and being locked out of gear that he was going to sell his car and/or do a TH400 swap in it and make it into a race car. I told him that I could not 100% guarantee that our master cylinder would fix the problem and that I couldn't give him a refund on the product either. After a few more exchanged PM's he jumped in on a leap of faith and purchased our master cylinder. After he get it installed, bled and adjusted properly he was so happy that he was finally able to shift his car that he sent me probably a page long thank you, thanking us for making such a great product.
It's reviews like this one, and the messages that I get like that, that let's us as a manufacturer and shop know that we are doing something right. We want every single customer to be as happy as you are with our products.
05-15-2013, 04:14 PM
#19
I had the same hot spots on my flywheel/pressure plate. Thought it was very odd for only having 22k miles on the car when I did the clutch swap. I guess its pretty normal for the OEM parts to heat up like that with added power.
Link to my thread below for pictures:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ll-review.html
Link to my thread below for pictures:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ll-review.html
05-15-2013, 05:47 PM
#20
Im having a similar issue with my 2000 z28 but its a tad different. Driving normal all is fine, all gears are smooth, clutch pedal acts right, no problems. If i drive the car hard, after a high rpm shift or quick shift the clutch pedal will only come back up from the floor about 1/2 way and ill have to stick my foot under it to pull it back up so i can shift again. Its very annoying and it does it 9/10 times when shifting quickly or at high rpms...Any ideas? Just for reference, the car has 271,xxx miles on it. I know the clutch has been replaced within the last few years, im assuming with a stock replacement. I dont know if anything else has ever been replaced.
