What Oil is best to use
#3
Well if its a new motor build then use conventional oil to break in the rings for the first 1000 miles. After that most synthetics of any brand (M1, Castrol, RP, pennzoil) is fine.
#4
Launching!
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Midwest City, Ok
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#6
#7
Launching!
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Midwest City, Ok
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We broke a tranny, bottomed out the rear tires to the wheel tubs from too much downforce. Have put 3 cams in the motor along with 2 torque converters along the way to finding all the bugs.
We think we have it licked now. We got the lifter bores bushed and realigned, went back to the original camshaft, new valve springs, and had our original converter rebuilt. Ripped a 1.3x 60' and stood the car up pretty well, but then lost the fuel pump at the other end. We were hoping for a 9 on that run.
Last edited by BOOSTED AFR; 05-12-2013 at 09:32 PM. Reason: Can't type for shit
Trending Topics
#11
8 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
I just run some pensoil in the sig car since it gets changed every other weekend, alky really milks the oil. I ran Mobile 1 when the motor was on the street, not the best oil out there but definitely not the worst. I try to get a full synthetic if I go that route and generally steer clear of cheap blends. If I'm not hard on the motor then I just get a normal conventional oil.
#13
TECH Regular
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Too close to the cities, MN
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What I would do is join Bobistheoilguy.com and ask this question there. I'm going to guess that most (not all) of the oils being recommended on this thread are simply based on personal preference.
Go on BITOG and and give them all the information you can about how you drive, distances, weather, etc. and they will be able to steer you in the right direction for a specific oil.
Go on BITOG and and give them all the information you can about how you drive, distances, weather, etc. and they will be able to steer you in the right direction for a specific oil.
#15
9-Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Anybody that pops an engine and blames the oil should just be ignored.
#16
As you can see, lots of different opinions.
I run Valvoline VR1 20W50.
I've ran mobile 1 in engines before without issue. The German mad QuakerState oil is good, Rotella T is good too. I've also ran Amsoil in a bunch of cars, and never had any issue. I think that unlass you are running an older engine, the oil choice isn't as important as proper weight and a good filter. K&N makes great filters, WIX and Motorcraft are also good. Many are made by the same manufacturers. Never run a FRAM.
I run Valvoline VR1 20W50.
I've ran mobile 1 in engines before without issue. The German mad QuakerState oil is good, Rotella T is good too. I've also ran Amsoil in a bunch of cars, and never had any issue. I think that unlass you are running an older engine, the oil choice isn't as important as proper weight and a good filter. K&N makes great filters, WIX and Motorcraft are also good. Many are made by the same manufacturers. Never run a FRAM.
#17
most any brand oil is good. what you should confirm is how your engine was built in terms of bearing clearances. If set up wider (many performance engines are) than a heavier weight oil like 10-40 or 20-50. You would need a build sheet for this info
#20
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Illinios
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OIl and compression!!
Thanks guys for the opinions and to the last guy who asked about why is my compression so low thats about where u would want this engine why do u think it should have a different compression?? 383 stroker afr heads eagle crank je pistons what should be the compression ??