Opinions on Sticking Clutch Pedal Fixes
05-21-2013, 03:54 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Opinions on Sticking Clutch Pedal Fixes Hey all - just looking for some insight from those that have had a similar issue and what fixed it.
'02 CETA convertible M6 - 24k miles - about 5k miles done by me. Never tracked and 100% stock when I got it.
During the winter car doesn't get out much - so I don't think I drove it from Christmas until April - but during that time I installed Kooks LTs and catted-y into SLP Loudmouth (plus motormounts and other suspension bits). Car had no issues at the end of last season - was 100% last time I drove it. The first drive after the header install was fine - no issues at all with anything. Then when I went to start the car the next day, clutch pedal was on the floor. I assumed it was the original clutch fluid that had boiled from the additional heat from the Kooks - and have since flushed and bled. The pedal will work for a while, then the next day after a long drive it will stick (but not DURING the long drive).
Question is - does this sound like a master, slave or clutch issue? I find it hard to believe that a 24k mile clutch on a stock car is done. Granted, I don't know how it was driven before me - but has seemed fine for my 5k miles. This started all of a sudden out of nowhere after the header install.
I will probably replace everything eventually - so should I start with a Tick master and see if that does it? Obviously a lot less work than swapping the slave and clutch - which I would rather do after the summer.
Thanks in advance for any advice. And if the people from Tick want to chime in, I'd be happy to listen.
'02 CETA convertible M6 - 24k miles - about 5k miles done by me. Never tracked and 100% stock when I got it.
During the winter car doesn't get out much - so I don't think I drove it from Christmas until April - but during that time I installed Kooks LTs and catted-y into SLP Loudmouth (plus motormounts and other suspension bits). Car had no issues at the end of last season - was 100% last time I drove it. The first drive after the header install was fine - no issues at all with anything. Then when I went to start the car the next day, clutch pedal was on the floor. I assumed it was the original clutch fluid that had boiled from the additional heat from the Kooks - and have since flushed and bled. The pedal will work for a while, then the next day after a long drive it will stick (but not DURING the long drive).
Question is - does this sound like a master, slave or clutch issue? I find it hard to believe that a 24k mile clutch on a stock car is done. Granted, I don't know how it was driven before me - but has seemed fine for my 5k miles. This started all of a sudden out of nowhere after the header install.
I will probably replace everything eventually - so should I start with a Tick master and see if that does it? Obviously a lot less work than swapping the slave and clutch - which I would rather do after the summer.
Thanks in advance for any advice. And if the people from Tick want to chime in, I'd be happy to listen.
05-21-2013, 06:00 PM
#3
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
thanks - I'm hoping that is all it is - I will upgrade to Tick and Monster but would rather save that as a winter project, not right in the middle of summer convertible season. I just did another flush and bleed after driving the car last night. Half hour drive, no problem. Half hour home, no problem. Then I went to drive it this morning and the clutch stuck. I drove it right back on the lift and left it until tonight when my son helped me do another flush and bleed. I did a mightvac, traditional bleed from the screw and then the jmd method of running the hose from the bleed screw into the overflow. Clutch felt solid when we were done. We'll see. At least I am getting better at clutch bleeding by all methods.
