NassauBlue98

iTrader: (1)

I plan to mount the PCM inside the car under the dash. I am looking for a clean bulkhead pass through (or inline connector) to be able to split the main harness. It looks like it would need ~80-90 pins total. I could do it in a couple of connectors as there probably isn't a single one that big. Any experience or ideas are appreciated.

Thanks

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

Not sure about any connectors, but you can use a split grommet to run your computer through the firewall. I think mine was about $30 from Jegs and it turned out great.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

This sort of thing is not for the faint of heart or wallet...

http://www.iimuchfabrication.com/electrical.html

Andrew

sierrac3_s2000

iTrader: (6)

Metri-pack bulkhead connector is what you need.



LINK

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Even after buying both male and female connectors you will be tons of cash ahead of the mil-spec stuff from II Much fabrication. This is the route I would go for a driver - it works for the OEM's. The mil-spec stuff does look cool though, Detroit Speed uses them all the time.

One thing to note is either route will require a special crimp tool to make the connections properly.

Chicago TDP

iTrader: (3)

I uses this connector.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/22-Cavity-Weatherpack-Bulkhead-Connector-Kit-12-to-20-AWG-w-Locks-/230837733667?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item35bf004923&vxp=mtr
very nice, easy to put together.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

We use the Molex and Amphenol connectors a lot at work. Definitely a bullet proof way to go. I've seen them used in a few car builds.

NassauBlue98

iTrader: (1)

Awesome - thanks for all the responses and especially the links, guys! There are a few good options out there.

I have the crimp tools for the weatherpack and metripack (at least the 150, not sure if that is the same one for the 280/480 referenced on the 30 pin), so those are catching my attention. The Molex sure are nice and I have seen those used in vehicle applications. The Molex XRC crimp tool looks like it is $300 - yikes!

The pass through grommet is interesting (and very cost effective) as well. I never really thought about that. The packaging size on that ends up being significantly smaller. I need to do some sizing up on the space I have available.

I assume you guys end up using 3 (or 4) of the 20-31 pin connectors, right?

Krom

You can use a much much smaller hole, if you pull the wires out from inside the car to the engine bay instead of having to make a hole big enough to fit the ecu connectors through

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Every connection you build into your system will be another source of future trouble. Use the split grommet and pass the (intact) wires through...

NassauBlue98

iTrader: (1)

Thanks - I was wondering which way would work out better. I was surprised at the small size of the pass through harness in the picture posted earlier...

You're very right. There is a lot to be said for the simplicity of the pass through. The bulkhead connector has the advantage of easier removal/install, but you risk more and pay more for it.

I'm still doing my research, but your point is well taken...

Thanks for posting this, 1964SS.

More details for anyone following this or searching it later:

I found it at Summit for sub $30 like you said: Link to split grommet at Summit
- Available with holes from 1/4" to 1" in 1/8" increments.
- I also found that the overall outer diameter is 3".

Seals-It Website

sierrac3_s2000

iTrader: (6)

I used the grommet like the one above on my previous build. They work well and seal really well around your harness. In the future though I will use the bulkhead. You are correct that for the engine you will only need a few wires but I plan on running my complete front end harness through mine and hide it inside a fender well out of sight. That way if the front end ever needs to be removed it will be a simple process.

Tweek

iTrader: (3)

Very common in the import community, I would suggest buying a harness though. Ive had a few friends run his honda harnesses without problems.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Boy, I don't know about that. I see your argument. If you were talking 1970 and older connections I wouldn't hesitate to agree. I know Chrysler used some firewall bulkhead connectors that have pretty bad reputations. But can't say I've ever had an issue with EFI connectors. The sealed metric pack stuff is massively reliable and the Molex stuff is expensive for a reason.

At the same time I think everyone has had issues with wires chaffing on sheet metal edges and causing intermittent shorts. That kind of bug will flat drive you crazy. Obviously keeping the grommets in good shape and you have a single point of failure. But still, if you build the connector right it and do a lot or maintenance being able to disconnect the wires rather than tugging them out of the way might be the better option.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

It will take a long time for the bundle to chafe through the grommet, then split loom then wire jacket. If it still bothers you, hollow out an OEM pass through grommet, run the LS bundle through and inject with sealant

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

I'm talking (the integrity of) factory connections vs. home-built. You never know what you're gonna get when home builders do connectors. For instance, I always solder all of my electrical connections and thought that was the best way until reading posts by PSI harnesses. Now I may re-think my methodology...

Jimbo1367

I am planing to try these ****IF**** I ever get my swap running.

67Skylark

If you really want to spend some cash jump over to aircraft connectors, Nickle or Stainless, ratching lock built it, VERY nice, very $$ and use high $$ tools.

NassauBlue98

iTrader: (1)

Those of you that are using the Molex connectors (like the Molex XRC), what are you using for crimp tools? I can't find anything less than $300. But, I have found multiple places, including the link above, that says you can use standard crimp tools. To me a standard crimp tool is not $300, so they must know something I don't know...

atomic 6

We are just finishing up a project car that I used the Ampseal 35 pin headers, and connectors on.


Just like those but in the 35 pin version.

Here is a quick video I did of the wiring project so far.