AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Installed my 25% UDP a couple of weekends ago and all seemed good. Haven't driven it since then until today other than backing it out of the garage to wash this weekend. On both of these occasions the belt was squealing. (not like crzy, but clearly audible) My concern is that i did not get the pulley far enough onto the crank. I went to AllData during the install (they list all factory specs and procedures) and the instructions said to make sure that the nose of the crank is recessed with between 2.4mm - 4.8mm left exposed of the inside of the pulley. Basically, crank the pulley down until the crank is 2.4mm - 4.8mm away from being flush with the face of the pulley then stop. I got it right about in the middle using a grade 8 threaded rod, washer and nut with a half inch bar and a 3 foot piece of pipe for more leverage. I cranked until i didnt feel safe anymore, and in the middle is where i ended up. (about 3.0mm left before i was flush) Is this still the correct procedure for a PowerBond pulley? Should it be flush? The belts seem to line up well visually. What are the correct depth specs? Would be nice if PowerBond supplied this with their pulley.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Drove during lunch a little while ago, squealing bad until it warms up then goes away. Its gotta be just slightly off. Someone, anyone..... specs? Procedure?

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Here's a pic I took when I did the install:



Here's my build thread where I posted about it: https://ls1tech.com/forums/17235917-post29.html

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Thanks, that is what i was talking about. So yeah, i got that distance to be around 3mm, which is in spec. Did your pulley come with intructions, because the number i listed, close to yours, are for the stock pulley. My UDP didnt say anything about this.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

The instructions say something like 2.1mm – 4.0mm for the crank snout to be recessed, but since this is the United States, I determined that approximately 1/8” - 3/16" is perfect (forgoing the "tighten to 240ftlb" step)

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

OK, thanks. I just wanted to 100% verify that you got this spec form PowerBond. Well I'm in spec, so looks like that leaves me good and F'd. Maybe the cheapy belts that came with the kit are the culprit, that is the best thing I can hope for then.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Honestly, since you put new belts on it may simply be causing the ilder/tensioner pullies to say they've had it. Your car is 11 years old, after all.

bene

iTrader: (16)

When I installed my Powerbond pulley with a new shorter belt, it squeaked and then it through the belt while idling. I replaced the top idler/tensioner pulley with katech manual tensioner pulley and never looked back.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the help guys. I did something ingenious (God I want to kick myself sometimes) when I was leaving work last night ---- i turned the ac off. Boom, no more belt squeak. Looks like the main belt is OK. So yeah, I agree with the theory that maybe the ac tensioner has had it, given the fact that it is the exact same part that is on my 2000 5.3 silverado and I have changed that due to failure twice. Thanks again guys.

Edit - it was squeaking again this morning with AC off, so the main belt is has an issue too. Once it warmed up it went away, so I am assuming that the belt is expanding with the heat a tad and is helping it grab better. Tensioners might be the cause, but I am more and more suspect of the belts that came with this kit....

https://sdparts.com/index.php?q=deta.../kpbu1480-ss25

...Never heard of MasterPro. Changing the belts out with some better ones would be a good starting point, it just sucks because i bought the above kit because of the price. If it needs better belts then Im gonna feel ripped off. Thats an easier and cheaper experiment than the tensioners. And demonspeed, you are right that the car is 11 years old, but it only has 32K miles on it for whatever thats worth.

I just googled the main belt part number. Description is as follows...
Detailed Description
Designed for the budget conscience customer who wants quality, but does not require the superior performance of the premium belt.
Manufactured with first-generation belt materials.
Not for severe driving or high load applications.
Meets SAE J1459 specifications.

Well its seen 6K+ RPM a few times already. Is that "severe driving" or "high load"? F!F!F!F!F!F! get what you pay for i guess.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I'm happy with my Goodyear Gatorbacks. While pricier than normal, they've been just fine. They were also the go-to belt long ago before everyone jumped on the Gates bandwagon.

4060763 (main) 40407378 (a/c). You can cross reference those numbers to any belt company of your choice. I found those Goodyear numbers cross referencing the belt recommended from powerbond.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

I've had the best luck with the Goodyear Gatorback belts, they're my preference over the Gates belts.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/8606459-post34.html

ls1 1990 VN

May be the Idler pulley & not the tensioner

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

I run gatorbacks on both of my cars with no issue.. Rockauto had em cheap when I last ordered. Think I paid about 80 shipped for all 4 belts.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Thanks guys. Given the fact that BOTH belts squeak and I feel that I got the pulley mounting depth right I think I will try changing the belts first. The chances of of both tensioners and/or their pulleys going bad at the same time seems pretty slim. I'll let you know if changing belts solves the problem because if it does then buying the pulley, belts and bolt as a kit would not be the way to go. We shall see.