MCLEOD Clutch Question
#1
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MCLEOD Clutch Question
Just wanting to know were about your McLeod Clutch Grabs at....
I just got my rebuilt Original Street Twin put back in car, and it is grabbing about 3/4 way out of pedal! Just seeing if anyone elses is that high!
Thanks Chris
I just got my rebuilt Original Street Twin put back in car, and it is grabbing about 3/4 way out of pedal! Just seeing if anyone elses is that high!
Thanks Chris
#3
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just installed it all as they sent me, they said they set it up, then I just take it apart and put it back together as it was... i torqued all to spec and everything, I also have the a/m master as well! is your pedal pretty stiff?
#4
yeah mine came pre-assembled. I just followed the instructions which said to check gap between bottom disc & floater which was good. I think they say check because sometimes people lose the shims on the stand studs when you dissasemble the clutch to put it on the car.
Mine MC is a Wilwood with the McLeod "adapter" that came with the kit. Pedal pressure is about 10% stiffer than stock due to the larger MC bore. Not aything I find to be offensive pressure at all. I did drive a buddys car with a twin and the Tilton MC that used to come with the twin and it is stiffer pedal feel than mine.
ping McLeod tech, they have been very helpfull with any problems I had. for me I had to cut the clutch fork stud down because the fork buzzed the PP before disengagement when I first installed. I needed to extend the adjustable MC rod further so had to bring the fork away from the PP some. Their tech guy said the "pull" twin type clutch in the LT1 needs .010 more travel than the single disc. Not everyone running one had my issue but cutting down the fork stud resolved my issue and I could extend the MC a turn to give me the travel and disengagement I needed.
If your engagement is high, try shortening the adjustable MC rod. when I was doing my install I had the car up on stands, motor running, clutch pedal in with tranny in gear. The rear tires would turn and it was hard to get in gear. I just turned the MC rod untill it went into gear easily and the rear Tires would stop spinning while in gear clutch depressed.
pic of my MC
Mine MC is a Wilwood with the McLeod "adapter" that came with the kit. Pedal pressure is about 10% stiffer than stock due to the larger MC bore. Not aything I find to be offensive pressure at all. I did drive a buddys car with a twin and the Tilton MC that used to come with the twin and it is stiffer pedal feel than mine.
ping McLeod tech, they have been very helpfull with any problems I had. for me I had to cut the clutch fork stud down because the fork buzzed the PP before disengagement when I first installed. I needed to extend the adjustable MC rod further so had to bring the fork away from the PP some. Their tech guy said the "pull" twin type clutch in the LT1 needs .010 more travel than the single disc. Not everyone running one had my issue but cutting down the fork stud resolved my issue and I could extend the MC a turn to give me the travel and disengagement I needed.
If your engagement is high, try shortening the adjustable MC rod. when I was doing my install I had the car up on stands, motor running, clutch pedal in with tranny in gear. The rear tires would turn and it was hard to get in gear. I just turned the MC rod untill it went into gear easily and the rear Tires would stop spinning while in gear clutch depressed.
pic of my MC