TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

The first thing I've done for this project is asked my self, "Self, what do you expect from this car?"

My answer, I want to build a N/A 500-550 rwhp car that will be driven mostly on Houston freeways, occasional drag strip, and last at least 50k miles. This build being reliable is more important than making 550hp. If all I can get is 475rwhp, but the car will last me 50k miles or more, I'll take it.

As far as making the power, I am planning on a stroker, stage 2 heads (have not decided on a shop to do the work yet), and a custom grind cam to match my set up.

I like the Lunati 383 rotating assembly. I have heard there are less expensive ways to build a 383, but I'm a firm believer in "you get what you pay for". I think I read somewhere that the Lunati crank is good for around 1000hp and the Eagle crank was in the 600hp mark. My rational tells me if I use the Lunati, I will be using only 55% of it's ability, where as I would be at ~92% of the Eagle's. That being said, I would potentialy wear out an Eagle crank long before the Lunati. I'm I thinking right here? Is there any reason I shouldn't use a complete Lunati rotating assembly besides cost?

Another idea I've been playing with is the 408 stroker. Has anyone built both a 383 and a 408? As far as the two builds go, what are the major differences? How bout heads for a 408 vs 383? Will LS1/6 heads work with a 408? As far as re-sleeving, is it really worth re-sleeving the aluminum block vs boring an iron block? Since I'm doing a complete rebuild anyway, is it worth the extra bucks and pain in the *** to build a 408 instead of a 383?

After I get my hands on the rotating assembly, I need to find a machine shop to work the block and possibly install the rotating assembly. As far as having machine work done, who do you think is the best in the country? How bout the Houston area? Who should I not even consider?

DenzSS

500-550rwhp, you may as well toss out the idea of a 383. A stroke change alone isn't going to get you there. You'll make a lot of midrange torque, but your peak HP numbers will not be that different. Regardless, a 383 is a very good combination.

A 408 with good heads will get you there.

Good parts are going to be expensive. Nothing you can do to avoid that.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

I don't expect this to be a cheap project. For the amount of time and money I'm going to sink into it, I want it to last for a while. Reliablity is my main goal while I do this project. Can a re-sleeved ls1 block bored out to 4.030 be reliable? I like the aluminum block and would rather not trade it for an iron block. But if it takes iron, it takes iron.

DenzSS

Iron works well, has greater stability, and is inexpensive. Good choice overall.

I don't know how thick the walls are on the new 6L aluminum.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

As far as machine work, you don't need the "best" just a competent shop that is experienced, preferably with the LS1. The best is totally objective, IMO. I believe competent is more gradeable. Since you're in Houston, have MTI do it. They're a great shop.

A 408 will be much cheaper and will get you to your goals vs a bore/stroke setup in the aluminum block.

DenzSS

I disagree to a point, Levi. You need to find the best machinist you can afford within your budget. A half-assed machining and assembly job can turn the best parts list into a pile of junk in no time.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

A Darton MID block is your best bet. Have it done by the co-inventor of the process, Steve @ RaceEngineering at the right. Then have your machine shop perform the rest of the work, i.e. align hone, clearancing, etc. A Darton MID block can be easily taken to 4.125" bore with plenty of room leftover.

With a proper setup for street use, you should be able to get a solid 75-80,000 miles out of the setup with a few spring changes along the way.

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Honestly I get tired of reading these posts or similar posts to yours do some research.
With that being said and out of the way here is my oponion.
CALL AP Engineering. They are a top notch groupe of people. They can take your car in and get it done 100%. As far as cost goes you are looking at some cash being spent. I would suggest a 408 myself. The only real difference between the 2 motors is the 408 is a 6.0 liter cast iron block and weighs about 80 lbs more.
For a very nice motor complete you are looking no less than 8000 dollars. You will have 5500 or so in the shortblock, 2500 or so in the heads, 400 in the cam, plus intake, TB, Headers, MAF sensor, Air box/air lid, etc etc. Now you have a bad *** motor but not enough fuel to take advantage of anything. So you need injectors/ fuel pump, and a good tune to make everything go together.
Now you move to the tranny. I am going to guess you have a M6 b/c those numbers are almost impossible through a A4. You will need clutchs, master cylinder, shifter, etc. Then suspension, and tires. As you can see it will be a fun time consumong build and will take some cash.
Good luck and hit the search button and read away.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I agree with what you're saying and that's what I was trying to get across , hence my suggestion for MTI to perform the work

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I'd say you're looking at $10-11,000.00 max in your build if you do the iron 408 with all the good stuff

DenzSS

Unless you're an idiot and build a 408 with a solid roller with all of the good stuff.

See this idiot's sig...

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VV

DenzSS

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

Thanks for the feed back guys. Whats your take on the Lunati as a whole kit as compared to Eagle crank, and Diamond or JE pistons?

JZ, if you are tired of post like mine don't reply to them or just skip them over. The reason I posted is because after 6 months of searching and several books later, i still have some questions. No hard feelings.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

I am getting exactly what you are looking for from Futral Motorsports.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

Using $10k as a base estimate for the 408, how much more would I be looking to make it an iron block 427. The pain in the *** factor is all ready there since i'm doing the rebuild. But again, it's my goal to only do this once and then drive the **** out of it

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

Tell me more or send me the links to your threds

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't call it being a idiot rather call it just being a HP/TQ monger

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

PM sent..

TTopJohn

Great post, I'm seeking roughly the same thing.

It can't be done with a 382 stroker? What does that mean exactly - with a streetable type 50,000 mile + durable setup, how far away from the 500 rwhp mark would you be?

I'm still on the fence between all-bore 387 and stroker 382. Although lately, stroker has been sounding better and better - more torque for the street, no potential for resleeved block issues.

Iron block isn't an option for me - A bit of road racing, or at least driving school/lapping events are in the plans as well, so I don't want the extra weight of the iron block hung on the front end. I've put enough weight in the car with the stereo system and what not, but at least it's in the back where it helps me get closer to 50/50 weight distribution

WS6snake-eater

Yo
Wassupp