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Rewire ignition switch on 02 Trans Am

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Old 07-02-2013, 09:23 PM
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Default Rewire ignition switch on 02 Trans Am

So when you turn the key in the ignition; you can turn it counter clockwise, this will activate accessory so you can listen to the stereo; turn it clockwise and it will be in the "ON" position, meaning its ready to be started, just the starter hasn't turned the engine over; then finally the the final turn will activate the starter.

Now what I want to do because my ignition switch is messed up a lot is I want to be able to flip a switch and turn on accessory, or the ON position. After that I'm going to get a push start button and put it where cigarette lighter is next to TCS. I just want to know if their is a possibility to wire switches for this, mainly because I can't program my cars alarm without the accessory

This is what I was thinking of using
http://emblempros.com/inc/sdetail/1186?noc=true

Does anyone know if this can be done?
Old 07-03-2013, 12:22 AM
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Yes, it can be done. You should make sure any switch(es) you use can only activate "ACCESSORY" or "ON" but not both at the same time.

Another issue if you don't want to use a key at all is to figure a way to handle the steering wheel lock. The key unlocks the steering wheel so it can be used. This is why many (most) of the people doing a push button start continue to use a key.
Old 07-03-2013, 12:46 AM
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I was thinking of either removing the mechanism that locks it, or just cutting down a key to place in the ignition switch
Old 07-03-2013, 09:24 AM
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Is the problem with the actual ignition switch or the ignition key cylinder? Both are still available and not terribly expensive ($45 for cylinder, $30 for switch).
Old 07-03-2013, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Is the problem with the actual ignition switch or the ignition key cylinder? Both are still available and not terribly expensive ($45 for cylinder, $30 for switch).
Not sure, I'm not able to put the key into accessory. It feels very loose, and doesn't click when you put it into the different positions. I can't program my alarm at all as a result
Old 07-03-2013, 10:13 AM
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That definitely sounds like a worn or damaged ignition cylinder. Personally, I would spend the $45 and replace it with a new one rather than go through the hassle of rewiring.
Old 07-03-2013, 10:16 AM
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Don't you have to disassemble the column to install it?
Old 07-03-2013, 10:26 AM
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I removed the steering wheel to swap out my cylinder. I'm not sure you can do it any other way. There's a nice write up if you search for it. The swap was fairly easy and other than a steering wheel puller no special tools are required.

I'm using my phone so sorry my help is limited.
Old 07-03-2013, 10:31 AM
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Actually no, you don't have to disassemble the column. You have to remove the steering wheel and disconnect the air bag so first disconnect the battery negative cable and then wait at least 10 minutes to ensure the air bag capacitor has discharged.

Remove a couple of screws from the back of the wheel that hold the cover/air bag on. Disconnect the air bag wires and horn wire. Remove the nut from the steering column. Use an awl or a dab of paint to mark the steering wheel and column so you can reinstall in the same position. Use a puller to pull the steering wheel off the column. DO NOT hammer on the column. If you don't have a puller, you can be rent one from many tool places or you can buy one from Harbor Freight for under $20.

Put your key in the ignition but don't turn it (leave it in LOCK position). Remove the screw that holds the cylinder in place. Disconnect the wire and unclip the wire retainer then pull the ignition cylinder out of the column.

Install by reversing the procedure.
Old 07-03-2013, 10:54 AM
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Okay, and just buy one from a GM dealership?
Old 07-03-2013, 11:01 AM
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Perhaps... but it will probably be cheaper at gmpartsdirect.com - just watch out for their ridiculous shipping charges.
Old 07-03-2013, 01:03 PM
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The cylinder will come with a key blank that will turn the cylinder but has no resistor for use with VATS if you are still using it. You will need to use the same resistance as your old key so your BCM will recognize your new keys. Have the dealer or someone cut new keys with the proper resistance using the key blank that comes with the cylinder. If VATS has been bypassed you can simply use the key blank and have a key cut to match.
Old 07-03-2013, 01:07 PM
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Yeah, that's too bad. Ignition cylinders used to come with uncut tumblers so you could match the new cylinder to your existing key rather than the other way around.
Old 02-09-2014, 04:53 PM
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Okay so I replaced the cylinder, and I still cant get into accessory
Old 02-09-2014, 06:16 PM
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The ignition switch (I think that's the real name) is located near the pedal end of the column and has a metal rod that moves it into the different modes. Is it connected correctly?
Old 02-09-2014, 06:19 PM
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I believe so, I had a shop do it for me
Old 02-09-2014, 06:38 PM
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There are only three mechanical parts in the ignition switch system - the key cylinder, the ignition switch, and the rod that connects them. Assuming the cylinder, switch and rod are correctly installed and that the rod isn't binding to prevent movement of the switch, the problem must be the switch itself.
Old 02-09-2014, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
There are only three mechanical parts in the ignition switch system - the key cylinder, the ignition switch, and the rod that connects them. Assuming the cylinder, switch and rod are correctly installed and that the rod isn't binding to prevent movement of the switch, the problem must be the switch itself.
I think it is binding, "on" and "start" work fine, but I can't get it to go past "off" towards acc.
Old 02-09-2014, 06:47 PM
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Either the rod or the switch could be binding. Simply disconnect the rod at the switch and use a pair of needle nose pliers to manually move the ignition switch to see if it binds.



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