1994 lt1 350
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1994 lt1 350
My name is Terrell, just call me Heavy Chevy. I am having problems with my 1989 Chevy Caprice-94LT1 350 motor swap, well not necessary the motor swap, but mechanical problems. The motor is already in the 89 caprice, with the help of my mechanic Gary Wilson or Middlesex, NC. He's a fantastic mechanic but he doesnt have all the new aged technology for the OBD1 and OBD2 cars and tunning the ECM. It was a pain tryna fit the LT1 350 into the 89box, new motor mounts(old motor mounts do not work if anyone is trying the same application), new painless wiring harness(est.$700) little things like neutral safety switch, power steering lines relocation, modifiying the oil cooler to fit, fuel lines as well(on the 89 fuel lines on the right side of rail leading to the front of the motor and back up,but on 94 there on the left leading start to the intake if im not mistaking), header clearance problems, driveshaft and many more things, but its in there now, But my main problems are that the motor runs fine and idles great, but when rpms are high the motor sputters and doesnt act like it wants to engage into the next gear until you let off of gas and then it changes, but also boggs out when you leave from a dead stand still its like my gas or air pressure is loosing compression somewhere. Some said it could be my exahaust because I have my duals leading to the orginal one tail pipe because of inspection, i was going to put new headers and run duals like it supose to but I couldnt pass inspection until I did so-so we modifidy it to run like a y shaped pattern just to past, and some say it could be my Coil pack or a tuning issue, Idk what it is the motor and tranny were pulled and dropped in together never taken apart. The motor ran perfect 130,000 miles a state tropper car an older couple had it he bought it from a state auction, The car it came out of ran like a champ, I never got to put my foot into it because the throttle cable was ripped, but I rigged up my foot pedal to get more tension so i can mash the throttle a little bit more, and It was a beast posi traction and everything, so If anyone could help me firgure out was going on I would appreciate it. Sry for the three page essay but I need to figure out whats going on before I have to do a major rebuild because of something simple
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Did you change the cap and rotor?
Steering lines should have been as easy as using the LT1 parts. Oil cooler could have just been replaced with a regular SBC oil filter adapter. Things are a lot easier if you research first then do the swap rather than do a swap blind and then try and figure it out.
Was the fuel pump changed to a high pressure unit or was the TBI one left in? The TBI uses roughly one third the pressure the LT1 needs.
The tailpipe might cause it to be down on power a little but would not cause anything you have described.
Steering lines should have been as easy as using the LT1 parts. Oil cooler could have just been replaced with a regular SBC oil filter adapter. Things are a lot easier if you research first then do the swap rather than do a swap blind and then try and figure it out.
Was the fuel pump changed to a high pressure unit or was the TBI one left in? The TBI uses roughly one third the pressure the LT1 needs.
The tailpipe might cause it to be down on power a little but would not cause anything you have described.
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Your right I shouldve did more research, in which I did but in the area I stay in there arent to many mechanics that want to do an engine swap like this, unless I travel hours away. But no I didnt change the rotor or cap, everything from the 1994 9c1 was used to do the swap nothing changed and nothing added but aftermarket air filter, and I cant remember if we use an 89 fuel pump or 94 fuel pump, but I know its not an high pressure pump and also I remeber my mechanic saying something about have 30lbs of fuel pressure as being good. What would you suggest, and also taking the oil cooler and the lines leading to it would be better off the car and changing it to an oil filter adapter??
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Your right I shouldve did more research, in which I did but in the area I stay in there arent to many mechanics that want to do an engine swap like this, unless I travel hours away. But no I didnt change the rotor or cap, everything from the 1994 9c1 was used to do the swap nothing changed and nothing added but aftermarket air filter, and I cant remember if we use an 89 fuel pump or 94 fuel pump, but I know its not an high pressure pump and also I remeber my mechanic saying something about have 30lbs of fuel pressure as being good. What would you suggest, and also taking the oil cooler and the lines leading to it would be better off the car and changing it to an oil filter adapter??
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Thanks for the help guys I will try to work the fuel pump into my schedule asap, but right now im doing my custom headliner black with red chevy bow tie in the middle, and also if I change my fuel pump and put a new distributor and wires because I dont know it the old ones has every been changed and this doesnt fix my problem where should I start looking next, because the motor and tranny ran flawlessly until the engine swap????
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Also may wanna make sure all wires/ vacuums are correct. Also if you don't already have a ALDL cable to hook the car up to a laptop and see what exactly the computer/motor are seeing And doing is a worthwhile investment.
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What's the EdMan recommend? He is one you wanna listen too. I asked a few months ago when I got my formula and that seemed to be the consensus was the ngk's I had a few people say the autolites. That's what was in mine to begin with and I wen with the NGks and the car really seems to like them. Course I also threw bigger Taylor wires, a MSD coil and cap and rotor at the same time
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I preciate the helps guys im starting to narrow my problem down. My So Called Mechanic said it again that the fuel pump I have in the car is okay, and that the fuel pressure(30psi) is okay, but Ima change it myself to a high pressure fuel pump to narrow my issues and also would i have to put a performance fuel filter as well?? I found a crack in on of my vaccum line leading to my fuel pressure valve if Im not mistaking (Its on the left side of the intake almost right in the middle and leads to what has to be my fuel pressure valve or its my egr valve) so im wondering if that couldve been my major problem??? Oh and also why use the Autolite 104 or 106 instead the the 133's i hear so much about? LOL i feel like a little kid being worrisome as hell but I am an ambitious young man looking for answers that I cant answer on my own. I really appreciate it.
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Oh yea I forgot to mention with my stock fuel pump, it sounds like a dam high pressure pump but Its not its stock one, it sound like a drag car fuel pump with that high pitch buzzing noise, but is that because the motor is calling for the gas and the pump is straining to keep up with the incorrect fuel pressure???
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30psi is not enough period. Do whatever you have to to get to 40. Delco pump will be fine. I'm pretty sure this is your only issue. Sounds alot like the problems guys have and my buddy had when his pump was dying and wasn't getting 40-43 anymore. Do you still have the cop car to just remove the fuel pump?
Post some pics, sounds like an interesting build. Why did you use painless instead of the factory harness?
Post some pics, sounds like an interesting build. Why did you use painless instead of the factory harness?
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 07-11-2013 at 04:26 AM.
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30psi is not enough period. Do whatever you have to to get to 40. Delco pump will be fine. I'm pretty sure this is your only issue. Sounds alot like the problems guys have and my buddy had when his pump was dying and wasn't getting 40-43 anymore. Do you still have the cop car to just remove the fuel pump?
Post some pics, sounds like an interesting build. Why did you use painless instead of the factory harness?
Post some pics, sounds like an interesting build. Why did you use painless instead of the factory harness?
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The pumps in the 93-97 transamz have a goofy *** fuel pump/pickup. They are a real high to get the pump out of and then sealed back up not sure yours will be the same you may wanna get one that already in the plastic carrier so you don't have to **** with that!