gi8e7oi825

iTrader: (32)

There was some work forward of the X-pipe (now; Y-pipe before) I needed that Kooks Custom Headers tackled. They did a good job. They also convinced me I'd be better off with and would love their true dual system. After paying extra to make it less than what I find to be God-awful-loud, I did love it. And they were right, there's no rasp. It still sounds good from the outside; however, from within the cabin there are some problems:

• Neither the driver's side pipe nor BMR drive shaft safety loop scrape, but the rear/intermediate pipes just before the 3rd member of my 9" cannot clear parking garage entrances or ~3" speed bumps.
• Over dips and dumps in the road (even as small as going into a driveway) it sounds like someone's hitting my trunk with a rubber mallet. It's not a clunk but a bonggggg. I've tried finding evidence of hitting, but can't.
• There's metal on metal knocking. I think I found the source: PHB-relocation. Can I put some sort of wrap there?
• The heat shielding on the gas tank is peeling off. Unlike another member on here, I don't see any signs of my gas tank melting...yet

Anyone else experience these noise problems?
Should I have the X-pipe converted back to a Y-pipe so it can tuck higher?


With SLP's Eibach & Bilstein package (installed Apr. '12), Moser 9", BMR drive shaft safety loop, BMR PHB, BMR PHB relocation, and Firehawk 17x9 wheels on Goodyear Eagles I have...

• 4" clearance under passenger side
• 3½ clearance under driver's side catalytic converter
• 4" clearance after driver's side cat, before X-pipe
• 3" clearance on intermediate pipes

Bigger pics are attached.

02sslayer

iTrader: (4)

This is why I only went with kooks 1 7/8 and kooks 3" ORY with my Gmmg. Sure the TDs are cool but just not worth it anymore IMO

99'CajunFirehawk157

iTrader: (57)

I saw a car with this setup @ G17, the owner told me how LOUD it was and I could see how LOW this system hangs down, shame. But don't feel too bad, pretty much all of the f-body headers or exhaust have some draw back or another.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

You can get that system to clear everything. It just take a bit of time to fine tune it. I'm lowered 1.25" and have scraped once back just before the axle....that's where it hangs lowest.

Your going to have to get a spacer at least .75" and put it on the driver side PHB. I also got a hi-temp hose for turbo applications, cut it in half and screwed it into the passenger side frame over the axle where the heat shield holes are. This will stop it from hitting over big bumps.

Its a pain but once you get it setup right youll love it.

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

F-Body issues. Lol

gi8e7oi825

iTrader: (32)

Yeah, I used to have the original SLP headers. That was a pain. I forgot to mention that I am actually pleased with the clearance in the front. The stock Y-pipe only had about 4" of clearance, so losing ½" is not bad for a 3" exhaust! I measured it before dropping it off at Kooks: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post17094050

I'm going to have to crawl under there again and look around to know what you're talking about haha. Got any pics? Was the hi-temp hose a silicone coupler or something? I was thinking about using insulated, self-adhesive heat shield in some places.

gi8e7oi825

iTrader: (32)

I feared the 4" quad tips would be too much, but nope! I think they're perfect.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

It sounds badass and its quality but for what you pay, it really bothers me how much most guys have to screw with it before its perfect.

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

Hey, I know melted tank guy .

Yes, lots of tweaking to get mine right, but there were lots of obstacles too. In my case, it would have been cheaper to build my own, but got a deal I couldn't pass up so we made it work. Added V-bands, shortened it by almost 2", moved tubes closer together over the axle, blah, blah.....good times.