Mike.

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I have a 97 Trans Am with a t56. The other day I was leaving my house and my clutch pedal didn't pop back up after pushing it in. I lifted it with my foot and it was hard as a rock. I looked in the reservoir and there was no fluid, so I added some and tried to pump it back to life. I heard a pop and the clutch pedal went completely limp.

Does this sound like I busted the slave cylinder or something else entirely? I have to replace the clutch anyway, but before the transmission is pulled I'd like to have some sort of idea what's going on.

I don't have much to throw at a clutch kit right now, and the only mods the car has are a cai and longtubes. I was looking at either an autozone clutch kit or the stage 2 clutch kit from competition clutch. Does anyone know if the throwout bearing would be included with this?

Any help is appreciated. This is my first time messing with a manual transmission, so forgive the noobness.

BALLSS

if your fluid was gone from the resovoir...you have a hydraulic problem. A visual look at the slave and MC should show which one was leaking.

I assume you have the "pull" type clutch for a LT1/4 motor.

you can buy a complete hydraulic (MC, sclave & resovoir) for $125 from rockauto.com. or you can buy either a MC or slave but the hydraulics of these pull clutches are sealed so bleeding can be a PIA although I have done it.

If you can get a "valeo" (OEM) clutch vs a china clone I would. Autozone kit most likely is the china clone. Try NAPA store brand which IIRC is really a LUK and last I saw they were repackaged valeo kits

The Competition 2.5 kit is $300 and comes with a dual friction disc which can give you some chatter on engagement but has a higher friction (puc) surface on one side of the disc.

For your mods a "replacement" organic clutch would be fine. Typically those kits come with a new TO bearing and pilot bushing/bearing

Camaro350Z28

iTrader: (6)

go with the comp clutch kit and dont look back. throwout bearing will be included. just got my cc in and its smooth as silk. just did my buddies as well.. smooth as silk

Fazz73jr

iTrader: (3)

I just had that happen about a month ago. Mine was the lip on the throwout bearing sheared off. My car had the same symptoms as yours.

Pull the slave and see if you can push the fork all the way in ( twords the engine) if it bottoms out against the bellhousing this is your problem.

Mike.

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, figured I would post an update with some pics. It's not as good as I had hoped, but I'll manage.

Here's my lovely looking flywheel.



The clutch disk that has seen better days.



Sheared off lip on the throwout bearing.



You can see where the clutch fork has been riding on the pressure plate.



Annd the torque arm mount and trans mount are both ripped.



Going to put in the new pressure plate, slave cylinder, master cylinder, clutch fork, motor mounts, trans mount, torque arm mount, and clutch kit in tomorrow. Also going to put a new seal in the trans output shaft and on the rear end (pinion seal I think?) I went with the Competition Clutch stage 2 kit.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Might as well put in a rear main seal while you're there. There's oil leaking into the bellhousing from somewhere.

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

is it just me or are TOB made for our cars garbage?

Mike.

iTrader: (1)

Will do. I bought the Teflon seal. Hope that's correct. I read that they switched from rubber to Teflon in 97.

BALLSS

the Teflon one installs dry on INSIDE lip & CRANK. the OUTSIDE of the seal and REAR HOUSING use motor oil to lubricate for install

yes they did change from rubber to Teflon in 97. Both work but Teflon install dry on the crank surface side

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You should have a plastic install tool that comes with the seal. Don't put it on unless you have that tool. IMO you don't need oil around the housing as long as you have that tool and use a soft mallet to tap it in.

97 6speed z

Also check that "T-Bolt" that the clutch fork mounts to. It tends to wear and cause the clutch fork to "rattle" when the clutch is out. And lastly, file smooth and/or polish out those marks on the clutch fork where it hit the pressure plate to!

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

sorry for the thread hijack, but could that sound just like a bad TOB? Wonder if I have this issue... hmm

BALLSS

Mike

the fork where it was hitting the PP...confirm the bolt holding on the "T" is tight. if it is fine than somehow the fork was over extended

if your hydraulics were empty there should be visable signs of either the slave or MC leak.

just buy a complete sealed hydraulic system from rockauto for around $125

while you are in there, inspect the pilot bearing. if unknown milage I would replace with a "GM" one. can get that to at rockauto for $12. Blind hole puller from autozone loan a tool works perfect for removal.

get the FW resurfaced if not replacing

that clutch was toast

Mike.

iTrader: (1)

I appreciate all the help guys.

The dealer apparently couldn't get me my clutch fork, even though they promised I would get it yesterday. I ordered a clutch fork and pivot from hawks third gen. Hopefully they ship quickly. I only need those two parts to put it back together.