thendawg

I searched around and wasnt able to find anything. Called TSP but it was too late in the day Im looking at their 402 rotating assy and noticed by default it comes with a TSP Forged Crank. Just curious whos making their cranks and if anyone has ran them, how they hold up. Any problems/complaints?

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

I dont think they are house branded. I have read they are made in the USA but idk if that is true. Your better off calling them.

bernarlitt

iTrader: (11)

Hope someone can answer this because Im interested in one of there rotating assy. also.

allan808

iTrader: (3)

If its Texas speed I'm sure there good! Lots of guys here in this forum use them.

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

Pretty sure they use Eagle. Of course in a few hours someone can call to confirm

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

LPE 403 that's not very nice...

It's absolutely not Eagle..

I've spent a lot of hours in testing & looking at Cad drawings, I can promise you they have nothing to do with eagle.

The TSP crankshafts are 4340 & manufactured to our specs. I have a few hundred in route right now so very shortly I'll post tons of pics.

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

Here's the video of the TSP crankshaft & prototype TSP rods rolling past 8000rpm in a 416 Stroker on 247cc heads!

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

So who are they made by? And how strong are they?

sscamaro1384

iTrader: (163)

bump any new info

filmjay

Kinda curious myself. Recommended HP rating? Callie's/Lunati/K1 seems to be the standards...I'd like to know how the TSP pieces stack up.
I don't care about any of them being "offshore" metal...most forged parts are forged overseas and machined to tolerance here nowadays anyway.
Dyno vids are great and all, but I'd just like some assurance that the parts will last.

But on second thought, after spec'ing out a solid rotating assembly with all the options, a full Callies/Wiseco assembly is only $300 more...Lunati/Wiseco is only $200 more...

WildBillsPerformance

Anyone have anymore info on these it’s been 10 years ?

G Atsma

Call TSP and find out. They're pretty honest people.

WildBillsPerformance

I get that I just want real world experience

DualQuadDave

iTrader: (6)

They are made in China just like the Compstar(now LPC), Eagle, Scat, Lunati, Molnar, etc. $800-1000 crankshaft out there. I have seen 7 brands lined up next to each other at the machine shop and there is a hardly a difference. All the same billet, the only difference is the machining which is typically done in house by whoever is branding them. If you want an American made crank, whip out a credit card because entry fee is $3000+ these days and can count all the options on one hand and two hands for how months it will take to get what you ordered.

WildBillsPerformance

Really more wondering the power limit of the tsp because that’s what I have

DualQuadDave

iTrader: (6)

Depends on the type of power, are you NA, turbo, blower? Just average guess, probably 1200-1300hp or so, which is normal for the china cranks. One is not any stronger than the other, except the 8cw Compstar and that is just because it's 8cw.

WildBillsPerformance

it’s a 403 ci lsa blower tap claims 950 online just really curious on real world experience plus this crank has been turned .020 all the way across so make me wonder how much weaker it would be

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

For a street build at 950, you’ll be absolutely fine, no worries ever. On the street, that crank will see max power or even 80% power about 5% of its life. 95% of street life is cruising. In fact, you’d be fine with a stock crank in that application, keeping the stroke out of the picture. Now…if this is a drag race setup, which will spend 95% of its life at WOT and max power, and the fact that it’s used and has been cut .020, I’d be afraid of it personally, and sell it on classifieds here. You’d prolly get $500 for it and be a few hundred away from a new China crank.

WildBillsPerformance

heck wish I’d known that before I spent the money to have it turned spent $550 for that and shipping both ways the crank was given to me from someone so I had no money in it before hand just thought I would end up good but I dont know the motor is already together and have paid a machine shop to assemble
it’s going in a daily driver that may get driven strictly weekends sometimes but I drive pretty hard and I like to race sometime also

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

You really didnt lose any $$$. Why? Because it was worth-maybe-$150 to $200. Why, again? Because most people know it costs $$$ to regrind the crank. So they'd factor the $150-$200 added to the $550, and they might save $100 on a new one, but still ground .020" undersize. Scott is right, but I'd ask the $550 you're out, or try $600, and come down to $550, or $500. My opinion. BUT, while we are on the subject of undersize journals, have you checked any sources for .020" undersize bearings? I was once told (10 years ago) that trying to get -.020" undersize bearings was a crap shoot, that getting bearings with proper clearances with -.020" journals wasn't an easy thing to do. Maybe I got some bad info. If it helps you out, I sold the Compstar crank for $300 in 2017, with it needing at least a -.010 cut. Hope this helps........