SS GIRL

if so, which cam do you have....

i ordered this cam 224/228 .567/.571 113 LSA and I don't really WANT to get a converter for a couple of months... money is an issue as well....

horist

all the 6 speed guys are

w/out a verter though you won't be getting the most outta the cam though

foff667

iTrader: (2)

most mid to large cams loose low end tq say to 2500-3000rpms or so...most ls1 aftermarket converters get you to that point and more meaning your never really out of your powerband. Having a converter will also help with the driveability of the car meaning it will stall less and so on...its not a huge cam your getting by an regard but personally would do the vert before or at the same time as the cam.

lata
Bill

Brains

iTrader: (7)

In another thread you said you're just getting the cam mainly for the sound.. Why even bother getting a converter at all?

foff667

iTrader: (2)

for that just get a cutout & a converter it'll be about the same effect except you gain 7 tenths in the 1/4 instead of 2 with a cam.

SS GIRL

someone said the driveability sucks without one

PREDATOR-Z

Keep the cam on stand by, gather all parts an go all out. With that cam you'll need minimum a 3800 stall, anything lower, and you'll wish you went BIGGER.
I would recommend SS 4000 by TCI, 2.7 str.

Even if you want to put the cam on you'll need matching valvetrain. Good cam BTW.

SS GIRL

ok well maybe i didnt make this clear... the car isn't going to be raced anytime soon.... not for a couple of months... so if im not racing, do i still need a converter....

raceguy333

heard this also... sounds like a good reason to get one

jrp

iTrader: (16)

a new stall should be the first mod for an a4 regardless of any future mods. it amazes me how many people seem to be scared or opposed to them.

im an m6 but rode in a stalled a4 , was my reaction.

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

No you dont need one, it isn't something that is required, just something that is smart to do. I really like that cam as it is very good for almost all your need, and is good for power adders as well. Anyways if you are not racing then you can do the cam but you would be better off doing the converter first. You might want to save some money and do the cam and heads at the same time. Save you some money in the future for labor.
I would defentially not do anything smaller than a 3500 stall and would suggest a 3800 or 4000 as well.
Remember to add this cam you will need springs and a good timing chain would be smart as well.
Good luck

SidewayzOZ

iTrader: (11)

That cam will probably do a few things for you:

1. Make your car stall quite a bit without tuning.
b. Give you that lopey sound you are probably looking for.
3. Make you really want to do more to your car.

santino04

I just recently put on a load of mods including a cam 224/581 without a new convertor the thing runs as smooth as silk no problems, a dyno tune is a must though. Im pulling all out torque 360 or more all the way to about 5 grand, a convertor is not a must unless your racing and need hard *** launches (yes yes we all know it helps a little with the powerband) which like me you are not at the moment. Most convertors like the SLP 2700 2800 or even a TCI 3000 mirror the stocker after about 1500 2000 or even 3000 rpms. Youll be fine!!! Good Luck!

PREDATOR-Z

SSgirl,
Let me run you through the progress of my mods in the 1/4
BBK, GMAF, Hooker CB, FIPK = 13.2 sec
above + 3:73 gears + 100 shot dry N2O = 12.5 sec
Above + TCI 3500 = 11.91 sec (Gain of .59)
Above with cutout/ no cats = 11.75 sec
And finally with a wide open shot of dry (No jets) 11.38 sec

Stock cam/ no headers

So .59 seconds with just a converter is the best bang for the money. I challenge any small cam to have done the same without heads.

Speed2k2z28

I have the hotcam with the stock converter, it will not idle with stock tuning,in gear. I lost a little lowend torque,but it is not really noticable,except at the track I dropped from a 1.88 60 ft to a 1.93. on the plus side i went from a 12.5@111 to a 12.2@114 running rich,all on street tires.if you get the cam,gonna need some tuning.....

Brian

SS GIRL

oh i already have tuning on the list... i am one of those nit picky people that lets little things bother them, such as whenever we removed my AIR stuff, that code is driving me absolutly nuts... so i will be getting tuning after the cam and also for those codes to be deleted...

santino04: did you car tune easily?? what is the lsa on your car?

maddboost

iTrader: (11)

A bigger cam like your planning on running is going to raise your power band. Without a higher stall converter your car off the line is going to feel slower than it did stock, it wont pick up till you get up in the rpms. GET A HIGHER STALL CONVERTER youll wish the car came with one when you bought it. If you just looking for sound though from what I hear you could always get that fake turbo sounding thing that sticks in your exhaust pipe that sounds like a blow off vavle. Then everyone would think you have a turbo LS1.

SS GIRL

no way......

Brains

iTrader: (7)

Ditto what other folks in the thread have said -- a higher stall converter isn't required if you're not aiming to go fast. Drivability will be just fine with the stock converter. I've actually driven a car with a very similar cam to the one you're going with, running the stock converter... Not bad at all. The biggest down side is when you mash the gas, it'll feel like it takes forever to really get going, and then once you hit the higher RPM range it'll pull like a bat outta hell. There is one benefit, you'll do well in a freeway race due to the tighter converter

BADFNZ

iTrader: (19)

So you want a cam just for the sound? Um ok. Why not just get some cam w/ low duration but a 108-110 LSA? It'll still pass emissions w/o your "catz".