PunkNPonys

iTrader: (2)

I wanting to get a cam but i am not sure which one to get. I am wanting to put down 370rwhp-400rwhp and about the same amount of torque w/ all the other bolt ons. I have heard about guys doing it with different size cams. My question is will i need a bigger size cam to do this or will a 224 224 suit my wants? Any help would be appreciated.

PREDATOR-Z

224/224, 0.581/0.581 114 will do that. (XE-R lobes) without heads

SS1 220/220, 0.581,0.581 115 lsa will do that too with heads

400 rwhp that is.

samz28

224 might run you shy of 370whp. Did on my car.. doesn't mean i can't break 11's. I just need to head back to the track and practice a little more.

Magred2001vette

iTrader: (2)

If you're a first timmer just call Thunder and ask for a cam called
"T-REX"....don't worry about the size! K/J

merlinsrealm

You saw my numbers posted along with mods...a 224 will make the power in the range and the drivability for everyday driving is great.......

Eric

PunkNPonys

iTrader: (2)

Thanks everyone for the replies. I am really wanting a FMS cam, do you guys think a 228 228 cam will make 380rwhp. I need a cam thats going to make as much power as possible from 3000rpm to 6300 or whatever it may be. I am a little confused about this cam thing because it seems that some guys make the same amount of power whether it be a 224 224 vs 228 230 or even 231 237?

samz28

H E A D S

Blktie8

iTrader: (1)

I sent you an e-mail
That is a great picture and a beautiful ride
Good luck
John sr. blktie8

99-LS1-SS

Like SamZ28 said. Heads are the restricting factor. From what I understand with the stock heads you won't really see all of the benifits of a cam that is bigger than 224/224. I have a TSP 224R cam and I make right around 370. The manners of the cam are great. I wish I had a little more power but I know I will have to get a set of heads in order to do that.

kickassT/A

iTrader: (3)

i'm running a t1 cam (221 221 .558 .558 lsa112) and made 363/362 at the wheels. with an ls6 intake, ported tb, and a pulley, i'd easily be over 375. no drivability concerns here.

samz28

post the dyno's man i wanna see em, we're all talking 3rd gear unlocked SAE CORRECTED right?

99-LS1-SS

He makes a good point. I made right at 370 rwhp without a LS6 intake or a pulley.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

IMO pick the cam you want, and then get all the supporting bolt-ons. Headers, cat back, lid, tb, intake, etc....I put 370 to the wheels without a cam. But I do have 1.8 HS rocker arms, so I almost have a cam.

99-LS1-SS

Here is mine.

eswolfgang

iTrader: (1)

I am running comp cams 216/220 with 1.85 rockers, 379 rwhp

DEEZ98Z

iTrader: (5)

I am running the TR 224 .563 112 cam... locked nubers were 373/373 with all the boltons and 355/436 unlocked. This is a good all around cam. Get the .581 lift though if you are going to get a 224

Bull_in_a_china_shop

iTrader: (1)

theres lots of varibles to besides PEAK hp? I really like midrange, did td's and run a 224. could i get a monster cam and see +15 at wot? yeah, but i'd lose that beefy low end i like.

400 in an auto is a lot since we are losing more in the drivetrain.

Is a certain et yer goal or? just peak WOT hp?

samz28

The way i see it, i built this car to haul ***.
that requires:
1> Lotsa low end launch flash stall torque
2> Good midrange, but more so
3> Good topend with a converter than matches to allow peak RWHP going down the track.
4> lastly driveability, i knew i'd give up some of that to achieve 1-3.


I failed on my converter selection, which costs me the top end peak whp going down the 1/4 mile. I have plenty of torque for cam/bolton enough that nitto's are really useless for consistency anymore on the strip.

Unlike the m6 crowd, there is more thought that has to be put into building your A4 for its purpose. Everything has to come together (verter/power) to make it rock out, picking the wrong cam, or the wrong verter can cost you a good bit on the 1/4 mile.

I don't street race/freeway race since i'd rather not go to jail, so those factors were not super high on my priority list.

T-rex = changing springs far too often, and big stall which might not be the Balance you are after.

i've yet to see a normal A4 customers car run a t-rex do you have any dyno's of it showing the massive increase in both launch torque and high end rpm?

I find that flash stalling the tci ssf3500 with ET's is the best most consistent method, it hits like a **** and the ET's grip like a ****, and you're off. With nitto's (245) i find it very very challenging to launch. I let two M6 pro's go at it in my car several runs, and i was able to beat their times consistently.. in my car.

My bro runs a small cam M6, but he is on Et's and launches on the rev limiter (6700) with a badass clutch/rear-end. It's pretty damn fast when its holding together

Kevin 276

Not dynoed, but I am currently running a cam only 221/221 563/563 114 with a 3200 stall and ran a best 12.28 @113...it had nice power from 3500 to 6000 then ran out of steam.

dand35th

well just my input.. I have 2 autos.. both dyno around 370 unlocked.. at 2 diff. dynos near me.
1) 216-220 and heads. 12.3 3850 weight though.. not drag car at all.. vert
2) TR 224 114 and heads. 11.7 setup for drags. but still 3700+.
I can't believe an auto car unlocked with just a cam ,any size, will do over 360 ish.. JMO... unless dynos lie... which some do..