Radiator Question
#1
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Radiator Question
While I was test driving after a part install (see Bolt-on Review in same lobby) I heard the belts slipping, so I pulled over and found that I put a large hole in the radiator during the electric fan install (however that happened) and now I need a replacement. I have heard that the new ones are bigger? Will they fit in my frame for the rad? Will the hook ups to all of the lines from the 2000 model (trans cooling etc.) work with a newer style? Finally, is it worth the trouble of fitting a newer style, as in how much "more/better" does it cool? -Thanks
#2
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The Spectra Premium CU1485 radiator is a great factory replacement. It is the same core thickness as an LT1 radiator but has none of the normal ports that have to be blocked off. There is no heater hose port on the bottom left, no coolant level sensor hole below the filler neck either. It is basically a true drop in LS1 radiator with a 1.25" core thickness vs the stock 7/8" core. It does have the automatic transmission cooler installed as well. Even though the CU1486 radiator is listed for LS1 cars, it has all the normal ports that would need to be blocked off. Basically if you are looking to upgrade to a thicker core radiator with no hassle this is the best radiator I have found.
#5
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I have a BeCool. It works well enough and my stuff does stay cool including the trans...but id have a real hard time trying to sell you on it. Super nice, but way too much money and youll have plenty of ports to block off. Wish I knew of the one mentioned above a little sooner.
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Advance Auto has the Tough One exact fit LT1 Radiator for 76.99 with free shipping if you use the coupon code. Do a search and you can find it rather easily. The port on the lower left makes a great, easy to reach, drain port.
Cheers,
Q
Cheers,
Q
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I've never seen anyone describe the "right way", but
here's mine -
- scuff-sand the inside of all unused ports with fine
grit sandpaper
- cut small plastic "dams" of something that will hold
up - I used some polyethylene plastic - and fit snug
near the bottom of the port
- paint the port & dam with a layer of JB-Weld thick
enough to cover but not enough to ooze past the
dams, let it set up overnight
- While JB-Weld is still tacky but firm, pour the ports
full with more.
So far, so good, no leaks and about as permanent as
you can get, provided you start with a clean piece.
here's mine -
- scuff-sand the inside of all unused ports with fine
grit sandpaper
- cut small plastic "dams" of something that will hold
up - I used some polyethylene plastic - and fit snug
near the bottom of the port
- paint the port & dam with a layer of JB-Weld thick
enough to cover but not enough to ooze past the
dams, let it set up overnight
- While JB-Weld is still tacky but firm, pour the ports
full with more.
So far, so good, no leaks and about as permanent as
you can get, provided you start with a clean piece.