Pacesetters versus OBX
07-24-2013, 08:35 AM
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pacesetters versus OBX Looking to purchase a set of headers in the next week or two.
Out of the Pacesetters (coated) and the OBX, which do you choose and why?
Out of the Pacesetters (coated) and the OBX, which do you choose and why?
07-24-2013, 09:00 AM
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,413
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
obx is stainless as well. i went pacesetter and am happy with fit and finish and my car made ok power. if you have FI or H/C the 1 7/8 will find you a few more ponies.
07-24-2013, 10:53 AM
#5
If you go OBX you probably will have to make some clearance around the steering shaft otherwise it may rub. This rub will be worse with sagging stock mounts. If you are going to do the headers this is a good time to get rid of the stock motormounts and upgrade to Revshift, UMI or CS. I thought since the dealer replaced my stock mounts under warranty 30k miles ago (mostly highway) I was going to be OK and within a month after doing the headers I took it all back out to replace the motormounts.
07-24-2013, 11:01 AM
#6
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you go OBX you probably will have to make some clearance around the steering shaft otherwise it may rub. This rub will be worse with sagging stock mounts. If you are going to do the headers this is a good time to get rid of the stock motormounts and upgrade to Revshift, UMI or CS. I thought since the dealer replaced my stock mounts under warranty 30k miles ago (mostly highway) I was going to be OK and within a month after doing the headers I took it all back out to replace the motormounts.
Thanks for the input everyone!
Trending Topics
07-24-2013, 12:43 PM
#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Helendale
Posts: 1,921
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The real questions is...what are your plans for the car?
1 3/4" are better for your basic bolt on/DD V.
Where are you will see better gains with the 1 7/8" if you plan on doing H/C/I or F/I to the V.
I had 1 7/8" Kooks on my 2007 V, and a buddy of mine had 1 3/4" on his 2007. We had identical mods, and on the same dyno in similar conditions, I made 357/370 and he made 365/375.
1 3/4" are better for your basic bolt on/DD V.
Where are you will see better gains with the 1 7/8" if you plan on doing H/C/I or F/I to the V.
I had 1 7/8" Kooks on my 2007 V, and a buddy of mine had 1 3/4" on his 2007. We had identical mods, and on the same dyno in similar conditions, I made 357/370 and he made 365/375.
07-24-2013, 01:04 PM
#9
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The real questions is...what are your plans for the car?
1 3/4" are better for your basic bolt on/DD V.
Where are you will see better gains with the 1 7/8" if you plan on doing H/C/I or F/I to the V.
I had 1 7/8" Kooks on my 2007 V, and a buddy of mine had 1 3/4" on his 2007. We had identical mods, and on the same dyno in similar conditions, I made 357/370 and he made 365/375.
1 3/4" are better for your basic bolt on/DD V.
Where are you will see better gains with the 1 7/8" if you plan on doing H/C/I or F/I to the V.
I had 1 7/8" Kooks on my 2007 V, and a buddy of mine had 1 3/4" on his 2007. We had identical mods, and on the same dyno in similar conditions, I made 357/370 and he made 365/375.
I think I'll definitely stick with the OBX based on everyones input.
07-24-2013, 07:43 PM
#10
TECH Fanatic
It's not like the 1&3/4 is going to choke the car if you end up gonig forced induction. they flow what, 15% less than 1&7/8 primaries? I say whichever one you get the best deal on. Even if they are both stainless, chances are they will still rust if you live somewhere where they salt roads or something.
07-24-2013, 09:01 PM
#11
On The Tree
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the OBX on mine and had an OBX downpipe on my supra. People hate on chinese products, but they have come a long way in copying others work sometimes. The OBX exhaust stuff is great!
Exhaust manufacturers are crazy. $1000 for a catback? Ridiculous. The mufflers retail for $150 each. Crazy mark up for some bent pipe.
Exhaust manufacturers are crazy. $1000 for a catback? Ridiculous. The mufflers retail for $150 each. Crazy mark up for some bent pipe.
07-24-2013, 10:51 PM
#12
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's not like the 1&3/4 is going to choke the car if you end up gonig forced induction. they flow what, 15% less than 1&7/8 primaries? I say whichever one you get the best deal on. Even if they are both stainless, chances are they will still rust if you live somewhere where they salt roads or something.
08-20-2013, 08:10 PM
#15
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sin City
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How bad was the clearance issue? I'm thinking I want to order the obx by this Friday and already got new revshift mms. I was looking at the pacesetters but want cats. I know you can get some universal cats with the pacesetters but there's a lot more fab work. Has anyone not had clearance issues with the obx?
08-20-2013, 10:01 PM
#16
The real questions is...what are your plans for the car?
1 3/4" are better for your basic bolt on/DD V.
Where are you will see better gains with the 1 7/8" if you plan on doing H/C/I or F/I to the V.
I had 1 7/8" Kooks on my 2007 V, and a buddy of mine had 1 3/4" on his 2007. We had identical mods, and on the same dyno in similar conditions, I made 357/370 and he made 365/375.
1 3/4" are better for your basic bolt on/DD V.
Where are you will see better gains with the 1 7/8" if you plan on doing H/C/I or F/I to the V.
I had 1 7/8" Kooks on my 2007 V, and a buddy of mine had 1 3/4" on his 2007. We had identical mods, and on the same dyno in similar conditions, I made 357/370 and he made 365/375.
you can see the mods in my sig, so I am hoping for another 5-10 rwp with the headers, motor mounts, plugs and wires.....
I went with Coated Pacesetters due to the clearance issues, I have heard with the OBX on the Vs, PLUS I got them on a scratch and dent from Amazon for $300. Not a damn scratch and dent anywhere to be seen except on the boxes. lol
About to coat the insides as well.
08-21-2013, 11:23 AM
#18
I believe the Pacesetter will iirc.
If you buy the "off-road" extension, then it bolts to the stock pipe and you can clamp it to the headers outlet, but most people weld it.
There is an install thread on here for the Pacesetters that will show you photos.
If you buy the "off-road" extension, then it bolts to the stock pipe and you can clamp it to the headers outlet, but most people weld it.
There is an install thread on here for the Pacesetters that will show you photos.
08-23-2013, 04:38 PM
#19
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also will a handheld tuner let me turn off the rear o2 sensors or where can I get the Mil eleminators? How good are mail order tunes and so on?