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How many miles would you guys accept a 6.0 motor with?

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Old 07-24-2013, 10:33 AM
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Default How many miles would you guys accept a 6.0 motor with?

Guys I tried search and didnt get much on this one. I am just curious if buying an lq9 or lq4 how many miles is an ok amount in terms of mileage? I recently bought an lq9 with 130k on the clock and was wondering if I should be thinking about replacing rod bearings, rings and just freshening up the whole bottom end? Do rods and pistons wear down at all or if they are not damaged can they be used for another long haul? Thanks in advance guys for all the advice and guidance.
Old 07-24-2013, 11:49 AM
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If it was 130K miles that you knew, where you knew it always had the right amount of quality clean oil and a stock tune in it...it'll probably last another 130K or more...but if it's unknown miles, it's probably worth opening it up and having a look to be sure.
Old 07-24-2013, 12:27 PM
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I would open it up regardless and check things out for yourself. I plan on getting a LQ4 for a future turbo build, and when I get mine, I'll be replacing all the bearings and gapping the rings accordingly and putting in ARP rod bolts, not to mention cleaning everything up.
Old 07-24-2013, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
I would open it up regardless and check things out for yourself. I plan on getting a LQ4 for a future turbo build, and when I get mine, I'll be replacing all the bearings and gapping the rings accordingly and putting in ARP rod bolts, not to mention cleaning everything up.


After opening it up and doing all that would you consider it rebuilt or just freshened up? Do you have the arp rod bolt part number I should use? I may do that. I was thinking of having the rings and bearings replaced but I wasnt aware the rind bolts are a good investment as well.
Old 07-24-2013, 12:53 PM
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I wasnt aware the rind bolts are a good investment as well.
They are a VERY good investment.

Find out how much it would be to have the rods resized for the new bolts. Depending on the cost in your area might be worth to just get a new set of forged I beam rods with ARP bolts in them for very little more.
Old 07-24-2013, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 69greyghost
After opening it up and doing all that would you consider it rebuilt or just freshened up? Do you have the arp rod bolt part number I should use? I may do that. I was thinking of having the rings and bearings replaced but I wasnt aware the rind bolts are a good investment as well.
I myself would consider that being "freshened up", because in essence, that's what your doing. I guess we need to know more about what you plan on doing with the LQ4. Are you staying N/A, throwing a bunch of nitrous at it, or doing a supercharger/turbo build? If you're staying N/A, then I'd leave the rings alone, but for sure do the ARP rod bolts. You can always inspect the bearings because they many be ok and not need to be replaced. I'm just saying that I'd inspect everything myself when buying a motor from a junkyard.
Old 07-25-2013, 06:00 AM
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I bought an 04 lq9 from lkq that supposedly had 160k. Was going to rering and go with new bearings. Once I opened it up it must have seen 160k hard miles. Had oil buildup that could be scraped with a blade on all the mains. Pistons/rods were well used. Bores and bearings still looked decent but I decided to take it completely down and rebuild it with fresh new everything. I was kinda expecting this anyways but hindsight being 20/20 I should have just ordered a 370 from Thompson for what I have in this short block.
Old 07-25-2013, 11:06 AM
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just rebuild it. even if its stock rebuild just redo it man. nothing better than security of a fresh engine. rings, bearings, hone and check the deck clearence. that what im doing on my ls1. the guy said he never removed the mains or rod bearings but why not be safe and just put everything new on it.
Old 07-25-2013, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by mjcotroneo
just rebuild it. even if its stock rebuild just redo it man. nothing better than security of a fresh engine. rings, bearings, hone and check the deck clearence. that what im doing on my ls1. the guy said he never removed the mains or rod bearings but why not be safe and just put everything new on it.

So what on the bottom end should I replace? I was told if you replace all the bearings gaskets deals rings and things is a basic rebuild. I'm guessing off the info here that's not 100 percent true. Do I have to replace rods pistons as well?
Old 07-25-2013, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 69greyghost
So what on the bottom end should I replace? I was told if you replace all the bearings gaskets deals rings and things is a basic rebuild. I'm guessing off the info here that's not 100 percent true. Do I have to replace rods pistons as well?
You only need to replace what needs replacing. If the rods, pistons and rings look good, then leave them be. Hell, if the bearings look fine, then leave them be too. Again, if it's going to be a turbo build, then gap the rings accordingly and put in ARP rod bolts. The FI section is full of stock 5.3's and 6.0's making crazy power in stock form.
Old 07-25-2013, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
You only need to replace what needs replacing. If the rods, pistons and rings look good, then leave them be. Hell, if the bearings look fine, then leave them be too. Again, if it's going to be a turbo build, then gap the rings accordingly and put in ARP rod bolts. The FI section is full of stock 5.3's and 6.0's making crazy power in stock form.
If you're going to take it apart and use ARP rod bolts, then no matter what you really should re-size the rods and put new bearings on them.
Old 07-26-2013, 06:12 PM
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if you tear it down to check everything then have a machine shop check your bores for wear.
Old 07-26-2013, 08:01 PM
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you can do a leak down test to test the rings .pull the valve cover off,how clean does it look ?remove the oil pan and see how much side to side play there is with the big end of the connecting rods.



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