First track outing -- tips and advice?
07-26-2013, 08:51 AM
#1
First track outing -- tips and advice? I've been to "the track" many times; however, in my circle, that's going straight for 1320' and making only a couple of turns on the return road. In August, I'll be doing something I've always wanted to do -- a road course! It's for the Ohio Muscle Car Challenge: http://orangeconeracing.com/eventscoming.php?eventid=15
Autocross is also part of the event, and I've done that before, but that was many years ago. I am not going for the competition; rather, I just want to have a good time and push my car (and myself) as much as possible.
I don't have a helmet that specifically states Snell 2005 (it just says Snell DOT approved; it's a motorcycle helmet), so I guess I'll need to rent one from the track. I also anticipate renting one of the timing devices so that I can see how (if?) I improve on the course. I assume I'll need to pull the lug nut covers and center caps off the wheels, as well as remove the floor mats. Anything else for passing tech? Aside from those things, is there anything else I should prepare for?
As for how my car is currently set up, it is full bolt-ons (the usual assumption of ~350rwhp). Suspension is UMI SFC, UMI LCA/LCA brackets, UMI PHB, Prothane front sway endlinks, SLP Bilsteins and SLP Eibachs. Brakes are cheap Brakemotive slotted/drilled rotors and Power Stop pads. I will be throwing on a set of RPM Speed braided lines and bleeding with ATE fluid. I've also removed the factory PS cooler and replaced it with a Derale mounted under the radiator crossmember.
My biggest issue, I believe, will be tires. I'm currently running Uniroyal all-seasons with a 400 tread. These tires have actually let me cut consistent 1.9 60's; however, they howl in protest when pushed on back roads. Tread is good on them (they were new on the car when I bought it), but they're certainly not a race tire. I will not be able to upgrade tires before the event.
The car is not a DD, but it is in "perfect" mechanical condition -- albeit with 69k miles.
Any tips, hints, or advice would be much appreciated. Just keep in mind I'm not trying to turn the car into a corner carver -- just looking to have an enjoyable experience for the weekend with a car more suited to drag racing and street abuse
Autocross is also part of the event, and I've done that before, but that was many years ago. I am not going for the competition; rather, I just want to have a good time and push my car (and myself) as much as possible.
I don't have a helmet that specifically states Snell 2005 (it just says Snell DOT approved; it's a motorcycle helmet), so I guess I'll need to rent one from the track. I also anticipate renting one of the timing devices so that I can see how (if?) I improve on the course. I assume I'll need to pull the lug nut covers and center caps off the wheels, as well as remove the floor mats. Anything else for passing tech? Aside from those things, is there anything else I should prepare for?
As for how my car is currently set up, it is full bolt-ons (the usual assumption of ~350rwhp). Suspension is UMI SFC, UMI LCA/LCA brackets, UMI PHB, Prothane front sway endlinks, SLP Bilsteins and SLP Eibachs. Brakes are cheap Brakemotive slotted/drilled rotors and Power Stop pads. I will be throwing on a set of RPM Speed braided lines and bleeding with ATE fluid. I've also removed the factory PS cooler and replaced it with a Derale mounted under the radiator crossmember.
My biggest issue, I believe, will be tires. I'm currently running Uniroyal all-seasons with a 400 tread. These tires have actually let me cut consistent 1.9 60's; however, they howl in protest when pushed on back roads. Tread is good on them (they were new on the car when I bought it), but they're certainly not a race tire. I will not be able to upgrade tires before the event.
The car is not a DD, but it is in "perfect" mechanical condition -- albeit with 69k miles.
Any tips, hints, or advice would be much appreciated. Just keep in mind I'm not trying to turn the car into a corner carver -- just looking to have an enjoyable experience for the weekend with a car more suited to drag racing and street abuse
07-26-2013, 11:26 AM
#2
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Bleed the brakes really well, The brakes are the weak link. Since the brake fluid is hydroscopic and the water lowers the boiling point, always use a fresh un-opened bottle of fluid. Buy the highest boiling point fluid you can find, one made for racing.
Also increase pressure in your tires.
Other than that, change all your fluids, tighten your nuts and bolts, and have fun!
Also increase pressure in your tires.
Other than that, change all your fluids, tighten your nuts and bolts, and have fun!
07-26-2013, 01:55 PM
#4
How do those Brakemotive pads and rotors feel to you?
The price is great and they work on the street, but I'm a little leery of them when it comes to performance braking. I have fronts only from them and I get an unusual numb feeling sometimes in the pedal, although other times it feels like they bite well.
The price is great and they work on the street, but I'm a little leery of them when it comes to performance braking. I have fronts only from them and I get an unusual numb feeling sometimes in the pedal, although other times it feels like they bite well.
07-26-2013, 02:01 PM
#5
I can't say I've had any issues; however, I've not been in a situation where I needed to really rely on them. The most workout they get is when I slowly haul down from triple digits on the highway or after going through the traps.
07-26-2013, 11:38 PM
#6
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Check that your battery is properly secure and that your positive terminal is covered. The factory mount is pretty weak, just make sure you check before you go to Tech Inspection.
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07-28-2013, 09:06 PM
#8
Launching!
your brake system is of concern. i would be inclined to take out those drilled rotors and install blank ones, they can cheap so long as they are blank...drilled rotors can crack when subjected to heat, particularly the cheap ones...
i agree with ps cooler upgrade...you may still have fuild seeping out from under the reservoir cap...DO NOT REMOVE THE PS RESERVOIR CAP WHILE THE ENGINE IS HOT!
for track I typically will start with 31/30 cold pressure...depending on temps and tire i may remove air as the day goes on...if there are no weather cracks on the tire and you have more the 3/32 of tread depth (enough to move water) then you shouldn't worry about your tires...try and get a good tire pressure and pay attention to how your tires are wearing.
not sure how your day will be broken down but after your track session, do not use the parking brake...one of my instructors did and the parking brake shoes "welded" themselves to the drum. just put it in gear...same goes for your autox runs.
this may be a good time to change your diff and tranny fluid.
LOOK AHEAD, this will slow down oncoming turns and obstacles to help you carry more speed by properly positioning your car by using your vision...try it and you will understand what i mean, particularly for autox.
have fun!
i agree with ps cooler upgrade...you may still have fuild seeping out from under the reservoir cap...DO NOT REMOVE THE PS RESERVOIR CAP WHILE THE ENGINE IS HOT!
for track I typically will start with 31/30 cold pressure...depending on temps and tire i may remove air as the day goes on...if there are no weather cracks on the tire and you have more the 3/32 of tread depth (enough to move water) then you shouldn't worry about your tires...try and get a good tire pressure and pay attention to how your tires are wearing.
not sure how your day will be broken down but after your track session, do not use the parking brake...one of my instructors did and the parking brake shoes "welded" themselves to the drum. just put it in gear...same goes for your autox runs.
this may be a good time to change your diff and tranny fluid.
LOOK AHEAD, this will slow down oncoming turns and obstacles to help you carry more speed by properly positioning your car by using your vision...try it and you will understand what i mean, particularly for autox.
have fun!
07-29-2013, 08:50 AM
#9
your brake system is of concern. i would be inclined to take out those drilled rotors and install blank ones, they can cheap so long as they are blank...drilled rotors can crack when subjected to heat, particularly the cheap ones...
i agree with ps cooler upgrade...you may still have fuild seeping out from under the reservoir cap...DO NOT REMOVE THE PS RESERVOIR CAP WHILE THE ENGINE IS HOT!
for track I typically will start with 31/30 cold pressure...depending on temps and tire i may remove air as the day goes on...if there are no weather cracks on the tire and you have more the 3/32 of tread depth (enough to move water) then you shouldn't worry about your tires...try and get a good tire pressure and pay attention to how your tires are wearing.
not sure how your day will be broken down but after your track session, do not use the parking brake...one of my instructors did and the parking brake shoes "welded" themselves to the drum. just put it in gear...same goes for your autox runs.
this may be a good time to change your diff and tranny fluid.
LOOK AHEAD, this will slow down oncoming turns and obstacles to help you carry more speed by properly positioning your car by using your vision...try it and you will understand what i mean, particularly for autox.
have fun!
i agree with ps cooler upgrade...you may still have fuild seeping out from under the reservoir cap...DO NOT REMOVE THE PS RESERVOIR CAP WHILE THE ENGINE IS HOT!
for track I typically will start with 31/30 cold pressure...depending on temps and tire i may remove air as the day goes on...if there are no weather cracks on the tire and you have more the 3/32 of tread depth (enough to move water) then you shouldn't worry about your tires...try and get a good tire pressure and pay attention to how your tires are wearing.
not sure how your day will be broken down but after your track session, do not use the parking brake...one of my instructors did and the parking brake shoes "welded" themselves to the drum. just put it in gear...same goes for your autox runs.
this may be a good time to change your diff and tranny fluid.
LOOK AHEAD, this will slow down oncoming turns and obstacles to help you carry more speed by properly positioning your car by using your vision...try it and you will understand what i mean, particularly for autox.
have fun!
08-04-2013, 08:47 AM
#10
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youre only doing ONE track event and ONE autox; at least for now. there is NO reason to throw money into the car, when its your very first time on track. drive it as is, and see if you like it. if you plan on doing it more often, ie: at least 5+ times per year, every year, then you can upgrade parts, after you upgrade your driving.
for the weekend you posted, if you plan on doing both days -track and autox- all you should even think of doing is a brake bleed and general maintenance/safety. drilled/slotted rotors are garbage, blanks are 1000% better. at the MOST, you can swap rotors for any kind of blanks, even no-name parts store ones. pads you can also change - either any kind of stock pads (and consider them a one-time use, then throw away), or hawk HP+. dont bother getting a full race pad for ONE track event, and you really dont need any kind of special pad for an autox. you dont go fast enough or have so many repeated hard stops to warrant a race pad.
i would sincerely hope that there is some kind of instructor ride along for the first laps/sessions, especially for first timers. its your first time on that track, and any track. you dont know where the turn in points are, brake points, apex, etc. the instructor will tell you all that, and give more tips on how to take a certain corner, or where to keep your car on straights, when to shift, everything.
if there isnt a ride along, pace laps, or anything, then keep in mind it is still your very FIRST time on track. youre not going to win any awards, youre not going to come in first. if you push it too hard, you will lose it and spin, or worse, wreck. you may also find yourself only driving at 80% and not realizing it, since you simply have never done it before and dont know what it feels like to go 90, 99, or 100%.
its your first time. learn, absorb info, watch other peoples progress and mistakes, and see if its something you want to do more often.
for the weekend you posted, if you plan on doing both days -track and autox- all you should even think of doing is a brake bleed and general maintenance/safety. drilled/slotted rotors are garbage, blanks are 1000% better. at the MOST, you can swap rotors for any kind of blanks, even no-name parts store ones. pads you can also change - either any kind of stock pads (and consider them a one-time use, then throw away), or hawk HP+. dont bother getting a full race pad for ONE track event, and you really dont need any kind of special pad for an autox. you dont go fast enough or have so many repeated hard stops to warrant a race pad.
i would sincerely hope that there is some kind of instructor ride along for the first laps/sessions, especially for first timers. its your first time on that track, and any track. you dont know where the turn in points are, brake points, apex, etc. the instructor will tell you all that, and give more tips on how to take a certain corner, or where to keep your car on straights, when to shift, everything.
if there isnt a ride along, pace laps, or anything, then keep in mind it is still your very FIRST time on track. youre not going to win any awards, youre not going to come in first. if you push it too hard, you will lose it and spin, or worse, wreck. you may also find yourself only driving at 80% and not realizing it, since you simply have never done it before and dont know what it feels like to go 90, 99, or 100%.
its your first time. learn, absorb info, watch other peoples progress and mistakes, and see if its something you want to do more often.
08-08-2013, 03:09 PM
#11
Do not put any kind of timing device in your car. This is asking for trouble. I went 2 years before using a phone app to time myself. You are out there to learn, not to beat the clock.
Don't sweat the tires, run them and learn.
Brake fluid flush is a good thing. This should be done on every car yearly and is never done.
If you reach a corner and in your mind you "think" the car needs to be in second gear, leave it in third and get on the gas sooner. Same way if you "think" it needs to be in third for a particular corner, leave it in 4th and get on the gas sooner. This makes it easier on the car, easier for you to concentrate on the line.
Also shift the car around 5-5500rpm, no need to ring it's neck, it's not a race.
Concentrate on being smoooooooth.
Don't sweat the tires, run them and learn.
Brake fluid flush is a good thing. This should be done on every car yearly and is never done.
If you reach a corner and in your mind you "think" the car needs to be in second gear, leave it in third and get on the gas sooner. Same way if you "think" it needs to be in third for a particular corner, leave it in 4th and get on the gas sooner. This makes it easier on the car, easier for you to concentrate on the line.
Also shift the car around 5-5500rpm, no need to ring it's neck, it's not a race.
Concentrate on being smoooooooth.
08-08-2013, 04:26 PM
#12
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1. Its not a race (no trophies for DE no matter how many cars you pass or get passed by) Check that ego
2. Eyes up (be aware of low eyes and fixating on the car infront of you. The car will go in the direction you are looking ie. if he goes off, so will you)
3. Be a sponge and soak up as much info as you can (get there early and do the track walk. Take notes if possible and pair up with a coach/instructor)
4. Realize early there is nothing you can do at that track that will increase the value of your car, only decrease it (see Rule 1)
5. Drink plenty of fluids
and lastly...Have Fun
2. Eyes up (be aware of low eyes and fixating on the car infront of you. The car will go in the direction you are looking ie. if he goes off, so will you)
3. Be a sponge and soak up as much info as you can (get there early and do the track walk. Take notes if possible and pair up with a coach/instructor)
4. Realize early there is nothing you can do at that track that will increase the value of your car, only decrease it (see Rule 1)
5. Drink plenty of fluids
and lastly...Have Fun
08-09-2013, 03:22 AM
#13
TECH Fanatic
As has been mentioned about not using your hand brake after a run...Do not let your car sit in one position after a run, heat soaking your calipers onto your rotors. Push your car 1/2 a rotor forward etc every 30sec/min so heat from caliper dissipates over the rotor.
08-14-2013, 01:38 PM
#15
Launching!
"..try and get a good tire pressure and pay attention to how your tires are wearing."
sorry...that should read "...tire pressure gauge and pay attention to..."
i really should proof read my posts....
sorry...that should read "...tire pressure gauge and pay attention to..."
i really should proof read my posts....
