User-c3

A very simple and accurate method to finding boost leaks. I was having problems after just finishing my turbo kit holding boost and wasnt sure where the problem was. I made a quick video showing one way of pressurizing the system and using soapy water to find the leaks.

I had a couple significant areas needing addressing, but this is a good way to find the smallest of leaks or in my case large ones.

Hope it may help one or two people.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

So maybe I'm not thinking about this correctly, but aren't some of the exhaust valves open? I guess that's why you use the regulator set to 5psi, so that it's constantly pushing air to the system and out the exhaust.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

If the exhaust valves are open then the intake valves probably aren't, unless the cam has some good overlap. But if the intake valves are open then some of the pressure will be going into the cylinder, around the rings, and into the crank case. I guess you just have to pump air in fast enough to maintain the pressure? Or perhaps pull a rocker or two to keep the intake valves closed. But I'm thinking the valves can still leak slightly when closed?

Also make sure you turn up the pressure to at least whatever boost you're getting up to. I tested my cold pipes and there were no leaks at 5psi, but many at 15psi. I didn't clamp down the couplers enough.

User-c3

exactly, when the exhaust valves are open the intake valves are not and vise versa, this allows enough pressure to build in the system to find the leaks. Yes there may be some leaking through out the engine but its enough pressure to do what you need to do and verify problem areas.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

one would venture to say that thing should make a good bit more power once you get her plugged up. Great Idea. I am going to make one of these for my procharger. I thought about using a snow foam gun on my engine bay.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I'm bumping this thread because I think it's a good reference for people who, like myself, put a setup together and never test it to see that it's actually holding air like it should be.

I'm picking up one of these today:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...2-3/202274064#

That I'll thread a hose coupler into the end, then pressurize my setup to see if I have any leaks.

Blackbirdws6

iTrader: (7)

I built a quick and dirty setup using parts from Home Depot. When I built my cold side for the FMIC, I used a regulator to crank the pressure to test it at various levels. I didn't pressurize the engine but simply removed and capped the charge pipe to the throttle body. Everything was solid up to 25psi.

x275radial

iTrader: (1)

i test each pipe i weld individually with rubber caps from home depo. if they can hold 15psi for more than 15minutes there. good then i jam them in the car so i dont have to take stuff back apart. but good video for the regular diy

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Well, I just tested mine and I have 2 pretty bad leaks, at least I think they are bad. One is at my iat sensor and the other is at the proflo valve. I wanted to change both anyways, so I'll kill two birds with one stone. My IAT is slow as dirt to respond. It doesn't even react to methanol being sprayed on it.

Anyway, here's my video. I set the pressure to 17-18psi and it's pretty loud the leaks. I'm wondering how much boost I'm losing between the two leaks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4l3D...ature=youtu.be

samdogmx

iTrader: (14)

did you ever get the throttle body to seal? I tested mine & it was leaking also so I took it apart & replaced the O-ring on the shaft but it still leaks....

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

He did... here's his solution:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/17600264-post15.html