FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Hey!

Just checking to see what your plans are for this weekend. Whatcha working on? Here's my list:

1. Finish Swift spring and thrust sheet installation.
2. New wheel studs and clean brake pads.
3. Install new tail lights and LED turn signals.
4. New PA15-VETTE cable.
5. Lube rear sways.
6. Check torque on all three differential bolts @ 129 ft-lbs, front subframe @ 195 ft-lbs, and rear subframe @ 141 ft-lbs
7. Install RMA'ed driver side headlight
8. Install beefier power steering cooler
9. Check tire pressure @ 35 psi
10. New leather care routine
11. Nuke wax/sealant on car and wheels and do new routine
12. Install new Revshift driveshaft coupler
13. Re-wrap headers with titanium DEI and replace OEM bolts with ARP bolts
14. Install heatshield/noise damper on driveshaft tunnel and areas around differential and catalytic converters
15. Send extra grilles to American Powdercoating and custom paint place to get matte powdercoating on grille and gloss black on surround. 3M Clear Bra on finished surround to prevent chipping.
16. Completely remove plastic rear deck and custom mount all electronics back there.
17. Mount bigger subwoofer on MDF ring with 10mm metric bolts
18. Mount JBL MS-8, wire, test, and calibrate when car is put back together
19. Lightweight soundproofing of front doors
20. Reinstall back seat
21. Remove GM badges from sides of car

Stuff that's on deck:

• LS1Tech/Cadillac Forums "PSA" describing the difference between them, OEM, and Raybestos wheel studs. Also, stud options that are compatible with McGard Spline Drive nuts when installing 5mm wheel spacers.
  
• PSA on projection halo headlight installation and foglamp construction.
  
• PSA on
  in-car brake master bleeder kit
  in-car brake master bleeder kit
  , Russell 639560 caliper speed bleeders, and Earl's 280040ERL solo-bleeder for the clutch remote line. Should finally put a nail in the "soft brakes after installing SS lines" problem's coffin.
  
• CTS-V2 brake calipers and either Girodisc 355mm or RacingBrake 370mm front two-piece rotors. Will need to poll forum regarding new pads. Tired of cleaning Hawk HP+ dust, but don't want to sacrifice performance or noise.
  
• Applying Thermo-Tec high temperature sound damper on the transmission bell housing to reduce the twin-disc clutch floater rattle sound at idle. Also replacing the stock heat shield above the transmission, and prepping for installation of heat shielding for a carbon fiber driveshaft.
  
• Ordered new pilot bearing, blind hole puller, and slave cylinder. Will be tweaking McLeod RXT pressure plate bolt torque and providing updated torque recommendation.
  
• PSA on inserting a layer of b-Quiet and Luxury Liner Pro around and inside the back seat armor plating to attenuate exhaust, differential, and suspension noise. Will supplement with instructions regarding removal of plastic rear deck and multiple CLD and MLV layers. Will reduce noise transmission to cabin by almost 20 dB.
  
• PSA on lightweight soundproofing of doors and elimination of the plastic "cheap" feel (creaking and fitment problems)--especially when shutting door with window open.
  
• Titanium re-wrap of both headers, ARP header bolts, and stainless steel sleeving on most tubing in the engine bay (dress-up).
  
• I also ordered about $600 worth of replacement parts from Luke @ Lindsay to cover a whole bunch of stuff, including future mods that include repainting the entire car with a dark, highly metallic version of Infrared.
  
• Will be sending my extra upper and lower grilles out to be powdercoated and painted (the trim is plastic, so it has to be painted/clear coated). I plan on trying out a matte grille with gloss black surround, but I'll keep the black/silver original grille, just in case.

And the mailman just dropped these off:

jcollege

iTrader: (2)

That quite the weekend project man. Have fun!

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Preview of the M12x1.50 wheel studs for the CTS-V:


Raybestos 2093B (left) vs. ARP 100-7708 (center) vs. ARP 100-7709 (right)

I'll try to get a comparison picture of the available threads vs. wheels with and without 5mm spacers.

plastus85

so all three diff bolts shoud be torqued to 129lbs??? i was always wondering about that

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Correct. Most people can't get there with a little wrench (myself included), and thus experience differential clunk that shouldn't happen after a diff bushing installation.

meatyCTS-V

Waayyyyy too much ******* time on your hands man... go get laid lol

I work in this heat/rain all week long, I have no desire to be out in it on my weekends.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Like I said in the other thread:

22. Drink Beer
23. Have sex

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Isn't the order reversed?

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

let's be clear this will be lucky sob weekend if all this gets done with no issues.

mod hell would be half of this going wrong lol

DarkCharisma

You have the best two problems anyone could ever have:

Too much money, too much time.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Clean brake pads? As in, remove brake pads, clean them, reinstall? Or install new pads that are pretty and clean right out of the package?

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

I wondered about that also.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Depends what your girl looks like.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Remove the brake pads and titanium backing plates, spray with caliper cleaner, go through the middle slot with a flat-blade screwdriver, and then re-coat with anti-squeal compound. Lightly lap the friction surface with 1000 grit sandpaper. Reinstall.

Absolutely. And something already went wrong--one of my 6 ohm load resistors died on me. Fortunately, I have extras.

philistine

iTrader: (2)

That's a lengthy write-up for a weekend. For suspension lube I use Prothane grease, you will never get another squeak.

I'm looking at baking my calipers for the yellow tint. I can't remember what temp aluminum starts to turn yellow...500-650F? After tracking the stock fronts have a permanent yellow tint already.

meatyCTS-V

.......

Riiiiiggghhhhhtt........

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Believe it or not(can't tell if you are being an *** or agreeing with him) but maintenance is where it is at!!!

meatyCTS-V

This is OCD, not maintainance.

Reminds me of this guy I helped change a water pump for. As he sat there watching, he took every single nut, bolt, and washer and cleaned, degreased, and polished them lol OCD yo!

This is way beyond the call of duty

54inches

iTrader: (4)

I disagree, I do the same thing when I pull a bolt out.

It is not OCD, it is the proper way it is done.

Clean the bolt to look for stretched or rounded threads and clean the whole out with a tap, if need be, so you get the correct clamping load needed to seal the items.

If said fasteners are clean when they come out, then no worries.

It amazes me when people oogle and awe over my 198,000 mile BBC that my family has owned since it was new and has never been rebuilt.

I pop a valve cover and the top of the head is spotless with out any sludge or build up.

Using quality oil and changing intervals that are conservative in their repetition, with good maintenance, proper torquing values and sequences will make any mechanical item last must longer than just slapping **** together and hoping for the best.(not saying you do that, but from your above statement, I am inclined to believe that you sometimes MAY skip some steps.)

I read instructions, many times, before I start, as well.

Call me OCD, that's fine, I just like doing the job right the first time.

For me, OCD would be sonic cleaning the bolts, replating them and rebuilding the engine just to replace the water pump.

To each his own.

Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

There's a thing in he maintenance world. It basically says that if a pm (preventative maintenance) doesn't show a difference it's not working and unnecessary. This is definitely OCD and unnecessary OCD. No offense fuzzy but you are going way too above and beyond. I guarantee there's no difference between you doing this and letting the pads wear out.

Gauge it by this: what is the cost of new pads an rotors? Then ask how many times you are doing this oer set and add up the hours. Calculate the cost and see what makes more sense. I bet letting the pads wear down is much more economical.