Clutch pedal sticks after WOT, already have Tick Master
08-22-2013, 09:03 AM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Clutch pedal sticks after WOT, already have Tick Master Alright guys, any help would be appreciated. I believe I know the issue, I just wanted to check with a few people first. Car is a '98 WS6, stock internal LS1 with full exhaust, true duals, and a N20 Plate kit. On a 100 shot, it put down 418rwhp and 510rwtq on a Mustang dyno (14% difference). I have a Tick Master cylinder in the car, and have had it in for about a year now. After having the car tuned, whenever I do a pull, the clutch pedal will stick (not very badly, but sticking nonetheless) yet the clutch will still be engaged completely. I am still on a stock clutch which is only about a year old (previous owner had it installed). I am assuming that is the problem and my stock clutch just can't handle the numbers, would anyone agree? Lol. I checked the master cylinder fluid and it is very dark/black, so I'm sure flushing it wouldn't hurt. I'm not too worried though, will be swapping in the 408/F1-A procharger/McLeod RXT soon so if the stock clutch goes, no biggie. Thanks for any input fellas.
Last edited by Papa Wells; 08-22-2013 at 09:39 AM.
08-22-2013, 10:04 AM
#2
The stock clutches are known to have WOT shifting issues even with stock power. It's been narrowed down to the stock Pressure Plate. Even with a Tick Master I've seen threads like this pop up where people are frustrated because they bought the Tick but their pedal still sticks to the floor. The Tick master is awesome, it's the stock Pressure Plate that is the culprit.
The thing that is confusing me about your situation is that yours has been working for about a year, and then after your tune it starts sticking to the floor? Like you said, if the fluid is black it may just need a good bleed to bring it back up to snuff.
The thing that is confusing me about your situation is that yours has been working for about a year, and then after your tune it starts sticking to the floor? Like you said, if the fluid is black it may just need a good bleed to bring it back up to snuff.
08-22-2013, 12:22 PM
#3
Staging Lane
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Like he said. ^^^^ Stock pressure plates are the culprit. I had the same issues even on everything stock. I replaced all the hydraulics... I did Monster clutch, Tick master, and slave. I didnt try each one independently but after all my research it comes down to the stock pressure plate that automatically adjusts itself via 3 springs... Those 3 adjuster springs become weak from age or heat or whatever and at high RPM they cant hold back what they should and allow for pedal drop. After all my research it seems that Monster is the way to go. Sure you can get into a RPM or other cheaper clutches but to me all the work wasnt worth the risk of a shitty clutch that cant hold the power or would present the same results as a stock clutch. Id stay away from replacing with a LS7 clutch like many do... many have no issues but its the same design just bigger and many end up with the same issue again too. I cant confirm which fixed my issue but after the clutch/master/slave I have zero issues.
08-22-2013, 12:44 PM
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
The stock clutches are known to have WOT shifting issues even with stock power. It's been narrowed down to the stock Pressure Plate. Even with a Tick Master I've seen threads like this pop up where people are frustrated because they bought the Tick but their pedal still sticks to the floor. The Tick master is awesome, it's the stock Pressure Plate that is the culprit.
The thing that is confusing me about your situation is that yours has been working for about a year, and then after your tune it starts sticking to the floor? Like you said, if the fluid is black it may just need a good bleed to bring it back up to snuff.
The thing that is confusing me about your situation is that yours has been working for about a year, and then after your tune it starts sticking to the floor? Like you said, if the fluid is black it may just need a good bleed to bring it back up to snuff.
08-22-2013, 12:45 PM
#5
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Like he said. ^^^^ Stock pressure plates are the culprit. I had the same issues even on everything stock. I replaced all the hydraulics... I did Monster clutch, Tick master, and slave. I didnt try each one independently but after all my research it comes down to the stock pressure plate that automatically adjusts itself via 3 springs... Those 3 adjuster springs become weak from age or heat or whatever and at high RPM they cant hold back what they should and allow for pedal drop. After all my research it seems that Monster is the way to go. Sure you can get into a RPM or other cheaper clutches but to me all the work wasnt worth the risk of a shitty clutch that cant hold the power or would present the same results as a stock clutch. Id stay away from replacing with a LS7 clutch like many do... many have no issues but its the same design just bigger and many end up with the same issue again too. I cant confirm which fixed my issue but after the clutch/master/slave I have zero issues.
08-22-2013, 10:13 PM
#6
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There's been people trying to get around the fact that the self-adjusting pressure plate is the root of the cause because they don't want to buy a new clutch. A Tick master might alleviate the issue but it won't cure it. Like said above even the LS7 has the same pressure plate (and it's heavy as hell!). My C5 had clutch sticking issues BAD, I couldn't even shift at high RPM's driving normal (like giving it a tad bit of gas and shifting at 4,000, not WOT but just "fast" accelerating) or my pedal would stick to the floor. I just said screw it and ordered all new EVERYTHING through Tick. I got a new slave cylinder, Tick master cylinder, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, the clutch, and a speedbleeder line to always keep my fluid nice and clean. Been in for 20,000 miles now and it has been GREAT. I can shift at any RPM and my pedal never comes close to getting limp or stuck. It has made this car more fun to drive than anything else I've installed on it.
Here's a link to this setup when your clutch pops
(I'll knock on wood for ya though!)http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/
Here's a link to this setup when your clutch pops
(I'll knock on wood for ya though!)http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/
08-23-2013, 08:18 AM
#7
On The Tree
Thread Starter
There's been people trying to get around the fact that the self-adjusting pressure plate is the root of the cause because they don't want to buy a new clutch. A Tick master might alleviate the issue but it won't cure it. Like said above even the LS7 has the same pressure plate (and it's heavy as hell!). My C5 had clutch sticking issues BAD, I couldn't even shift at high RPM's driving normal (like giving it a tad bit of gas and shifting at 4,000, not WOT but just "fast" accelerating) or my pedal would stick to the floor. I just said screw it and ordered all new EVERYTHING through Tick. I got a new slave cylinder, Tick master cylinder, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, the clutch, and a speedbleeder line to always keep my fluid nice and clean. Been in for 20,000 miles now and it has been GREAT. I can shift at any RPM and my pedal never comes close to getting limp or stuck. It has made this car more fun to drive than anything else I've installed on it.
Here's a link to this setup when your clutch pops (I'll knock on wood for ya though!)http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/
Here's a link to this setup when your clutch pops
(I'll knock on wood for ya though!)http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/