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Burnt T4 Shim gasket...

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Old 08-24-2013, 10:05 AM
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Default Burnt T4 Shim gasket...

A few months ago, I got my kit ready to install and, per recommendations from others, I put a layer of red silicone sealant on the shim before I installed it. But as often happens after I got that ready, I found that I needed to disassemble a few pieces so I could insert a brace (this was a new kit and I didn't realize that the brace had to be installed after the turbo but before the crossover. Tight confines...). So, meanwhile the silicone sealant 'set' and when I put it on an hour or so later, I 'hoped' tightening all bolts well would make it seal okay. I should have cleaned it and started over but I was running short on time. Well, "pay me now or pay me later..."

Fast forward to last week, ... I was under the car changing the oil when I noticed a swath of exhaust soot on the back of the compressor housing. I assumed that the exhaust shim *might* not have sealed so well after all and had a small leak. I ordered a new shim from Jegs and just went out to take off the old shim and put on the new one. Ugh.. well...


My boost should come on a lot better with the new gasket.
Old 08-24-2013, 10:08 AM
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If you don't use a gasket it can't blow out.

I always just throw those things away.
Old 08-24-2013, 10:27 AM
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DOH!.. Well, I'll go this route the next time I have to take it down for some reason. Thanks for the tip


Originally Posted by parish8
If you don't use a gasket it can't blow out.

I always just throw those things away.
Old 08-24-2013, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mightyquickz28
DOH!.. Well, I'll go this route the next time I have to take it down for some reason. Thanks for the tip
Of course he means rtv only with no gasket. Dont just bolt it on dry it will really leak then haha.
Old 08-24-2013, 12:19 PM
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I used to use rtv. Now I use nothing. When you take it apart sometimes you see a slight soot line but you can not hear it leak or feel it leak.

Rtv can't hurt.
Old 08-25-2013, 11:08 AM
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Get the high temp copper rtv and nothing else. No issues in 4 years
Old 08-25-2013, 01:22 PM
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Copper RTV is best.

But if the flanges are flat as they should always be, simply bolt it up good and tight and it will be fine.
Old 08-25-2013, 05:28 PM
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personally i think using a layer of high temp rtv and allowing it to dry before assembly is the best,almost like making a high temp o-ring
Old 08-25-2013, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mightyquickz28
DOH!.. Well, I'll go this route the next time I have to take it down for some reason. Thanks for the tip
As you can see there are a number of ways to do it, the key is to get rid of the gasket, same goes for any gaskets in the rest of the exhaust system if they are the flat gaskets type.

You still need to run the manifold-head gaskets. Make sure to use the mls ones.
Old 08-26-2013, 06:33 AM
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The key: File the flanges FLAT B4 assembly.
Old 08-26-2013, 08:43 AM
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I'm going to replace mine this week, should I let the copper RTV dry completely or let it get a little tacky before I reinstall everything?
Old 08-26-2013, 09:21 AM
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Can RTV tolerate the direct exhaust temp in an application like this? I figure the exhaust has to be approaching 1000*. Copper RTV is good fo 700* intermittent.
Old 08-26-2013, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 69-chvl
Can RTV tolerate the direct exhaust temp in an application like this? I figure the exhaust has to be approaching 1000*. Copper RTV is good fo 700* intermittent.
Depends on how far from the exhaust port the turbo is located. Exhaust gases coming out of the head will exceed 1000 degrees when you run the motor hard but they also cool very quickly. In this case the RTV isn't in the direct path of the exhaust so yes, it will handle the temps.



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