foxbody
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if it is from a vette, it should already be a low profile pan. They arent known for having big pans on them unless the goofy looking batwing pan. stock pump should be fine, just make sure you also get the pickup tube and windage tray with the pan. I only paid $120 for mine after Jegs sent me two banged up sets with crap flying inside the box.
check my sig for the build. It aint perfect or pretty, but it is not far from running.
check my sig for the build. It aint perfect or pretty, but it is not far from running.
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I tested some motor mounts for Dirty Dingo for the LS/fox body swap, so I have tried the F body, CTSV, and Hot Rod pan with stock and tubular k members. The f body pan required the factory K member to be notched, but you could use it. The CTSV pan bolts right in but is pretty expensive. All used the stock oil pump but had to use the windage tray and pickup dedicated to each pan.
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The fbody pan should fit with the aftermarket k members. I have one on my Maximum Motorsports 4.6 k member using modified 4.6 mounts and no mod motor mount adapters, it fits fine.
The pic does not show the rack, but there is about 1/2" clearance between the rack and the pan WITHOUT using the mod motor adapter plates (3/8" thick). This clearance measurement is with the MM bumpsteer adjusters setting the rack upwards 3/8". This pic is also with the engine set forward .180". I am making new motor mounts to move the engine back .500" (hopefully) behind the normal mounting position (.680" back from where it is), and down as low as I can get it (probably .500"-.550"). I hammered the firewall with a 20 lb sledge to clearance the passenger side cylinder head to be able to move the engine back this far, while still being able to drop it in the engine bay with the T56 attached.
You cannot see it in the picture, but the bottom of the fbody oil pan sump sits above the bottom of the MM k member by at least 1.5 inches. The minimum clearance area is between the front of the pan and the steering rack.
Using a .375" thick mod motor mount adapter plate would put the engine .265" higher in the chassis and give you an additional .265" clearance. If you put the rack in the standard position, you would have another .375" clearance. If you are building a drag car with front skinnies, you could reverse the rack adjusters and drop the rack for additional clearance. Bumpsteer with skinnies is irrelevant.
The modified motor mounts are just cheapo CJ Pony Parts solid mounts which I cut and bent and welded 3/16" angle steel onto.
I honestly don't see how you will make a batwing oil pan work. There is a reason they are cheap, it is because nobody wants them.
The pic does not show the rack, but there is about 1/2" clearance between the rack and the pan WITHOUT using the mod motor adapter plates (3/8" thick). This clearance measurement is with the MM bumpsteer adjusters setting the rack upwards 3/8". This pic is also with the engine set forward .180". I am making new motor mounts to move the engine back .500" (hopefully) behind the normal mounting position (.680" back from where it is), and down as low as I can get it (probably .500"-.550"). I hammered the firewall with a 20 lb sledge to clearance the passenger side cylinder head to be able to move the engine back this far, while still being able to drop it in the engine bay with the T56 attached.
You cannot see it in the picture, but the bottom of the fbody oil pan sump sits above the bottom of the MM k member by at least 1.5 inches. The minimum clearance area is between the front of the pan and the steering rack.
Using a .375" thick mod motor mount adapter plate would put the engine .265" higher in the chassis and give you an additional .265" clearance. If you put the rack in the standard position, you would have another .375" clearance. If you are building a drag car with front skinnies, you could reverse the rack adjusters and drop the rack for additional clearance. Bumpsteer with skinnies is irrelevant.
The modified motor mounts are just cheapo CJ Pony Parts solid mounts which I cut and bent and welded 3/16" angle steel onto.
I honestly don't see how you will make a batwing oil pan work. There is a reason they are cheap, it is because nobody wants them.
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