Rust on Ls7 cylinder walls
#1
Rust on Ls7 cylinder walls
Well, long story short, I have rust in my motor.
I removed the heads on my 07 Z06 for a one week long head job, and the shop didn't have them done for SIX MONTHS. The block was sealed as good as I could but the beach humidity got in it and caused it to rust.
What can I do? I can't afford to have the motor pulled....
I removed the heads on my 07 Z06 for a one week long head job, and the shop didn't have them done for SIX MONTHS. The block was sealed as good as I could but the beach humidity got in it and caused it to rust.
What can I do? I can't afford to have the motor pulled....
#3
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
That looks worse than it really is, at least in that cylinder. I would use some scotch brite and clean the rust spots off. just blow the cylinder out real good when you're done. I had a friend leave his boat sit in storage and when he got it out the motor wouldn't turn over because he didn't fog the engine before storing it. He took the spark plugs out and sprayed the cylinders with wd-40 then turned the motor over with a breaker bar on the crank bolt. He's run it now for about 4 boating seasons with no problems. It's definitely not something you want to happen but I think you'll be alright unless the other cylinders are worse than this one.
#5
So, scotchbrite pads and then blow the cylinders out with air?
I really hope its okay. I am really strapped for cash right now...
What if I end up with some pitting, how bad is too bad?
I really hope its okay. I am really strapped for cash right now...
What if I end up with some pitting, how bad is too bad?
#7
11 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: middle of nowhere, Kansas
Posts: 1,309
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
You should not have much if any pitting in that amount of time. I second the Scotch-Brite pad suggestion and then clean everything really good. Lightly lube with engine oil and reassemble. It'll be fine.
Trending Topics
#8
Scotchbrite? Really? It's full of abrasives, that's how it works. Those tiny (and not so tiny) pieces of abrasive will get stuck between top piston land and cylinder wall and mar hell out of 'em. Seen it done, might as well pour sand in the carb.
#9
On The Tree
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You might want to talk to a machine shop. I had one rust, alot worse than yours but it had to be bored .030 over. You could probably rotate that piston down as far as you can to bdc and try a bottle brush with a drill. Put a layer of thick grease, like wheel bearing grease, all over the top of the piston to catch anything that drops down so it doesn't get between thr piston and cylinder wall. Carefully wipe it all back out when your done. Not optimal but it should get you by until you either get rid of the car or do a rebuild.
#10
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Studewood/Acres-Homes TX.
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I've seen far worse a lot of engines we've done over the yrs..look like this after they have come from the machine shop:..and I or my uncle Chubby.....open-up the plastic bag and show our - your friends the engine and re-wrap the block and a month or 2 later.... light Rust.....That looks worse than it really is..........I would use some (Plastic) scotch brite (like the 1's for your kitchen)no metal to metal contact! and clean the rust spots off. just blow the cylinder out real good when you're done. sprayed the cylinders with wd40--lite oil..clean the bores, then turned the motor over. It's something you don't want to happen but this type of **** happens all the time if after cleaning there is anything left which will be very little if any at all. USE Plastic as not to mess up the hone-cross hatches of the bores.