tastyZL1

iTrader: (6)

Right now I have strange coilovers with 350lb hypercoils.... but I'm curious to see what everyone else has going on, share your specs!

JD_AMG

If you are looking for a handling setup then you are REALLY being held back with those...
The Strange shocks are non-gas charged drag shocks. Id honestly be nervous driving hard with those, as the oil will foam and you will loose dampening making the car more and more loose and disconnected.
You'll see most running either bilstien (off the shelf, or custom valved) or Koni SA's with either strano springs or custom springs generally ranging from 500lbs/in to 700lbs/in on a 4th gen depending on the type/class of racing. Rear will be same shocks with strano springs, or similar 150lbs to 250lbs+ springs, again depending on type/class of racing.
Stock like 32/19mm f/r swaybars, or bigger 35/22mm f/r swaybars (depends on type/class again).
Rubber or rod end bushings, rarely or never poly (at least not in parts that need to articulate like control arms.)
Full length torque arm (stock or not), as the short torque arm can create brake hop.
Then you'll see brake, wheel/tire setup vary even more depending on the type of racing and rules.

brigade24

I run the strano setup...35mm/22mm strano sways. 550/150lbs-in strano springs with SA konis. i've also got an adjustable TA and a Fays 2 Watts link...my LCAs front and rear are stock...as it is the car is fantastic for autox...but for track this setup leaves more to be desired. i would go with a stiffer front spring, double adjustable shocks (especially in the front) and a decoupled TA....

I'm currently looking into a custom dual adjustable shock setup with custom springs but i'm still researching this...

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

DA QA1 shocks in front, SA QA1s in back,

Global West...
- 2" lowering coils in front
- L3 Leafs in back
- tubular upper and lower front control arms (del-alum bushings)

PST Urethane bushings everywhere
Hotchkis Handle Bars in front
WS6 front and rear sway bars
Competition Engineering frame ties

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Koni Da front Sa rear

Strano 550/150 springs

32/19 swaybars with energy suspension bushings and end links.

UMI roto joint rear LCA and panhard rod, relocation brackets.

All stock stuff up front with MOOG bushings, energy suspension bushings and end links

275/40/17 NT-05 tires

camarokid91

Heres the big stuff.

Koni SA
Strano 550/150 --- I will be upping the rates tho soon.
36/22mm Sways
GW uppers
UMI Roto LCA/Panhard
BMR TQ Arm
UMI SFC


Fays 2 Watts link is going in this winter and a spoiler similar to Alan Blaine's 7-10 lexsan spoiler. Possibly an unbalanced engineering de-coupled TQ arm.

I will be attending the majority of the Scca Pro Solo events on the east coast next year.

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

For the sake of future searchers...

I too run the strano springs, konis, and strano sway bars. Also have the umi tubular road race k member, slotted my upper controll arms for more camber, tubular rear control arms and relocation brackets. If i dont get a zo6, ill be installing the fays 2 watts link. I run about 3 degrees neg camber, 4.5 caster and around .175 neg toe.

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

And 315 hoosiers

DarkblueTA

I put poly bushings/end links in the stock sway bars (32/19 on my car),
Bilsteins and BMR springs (newer style found locally cheap for because a guy was swapping his suspension around to drag racing),
Double adjustable rod ended PHB,
stock LCA,
STB/SFC (given to me free),
Alignment Camber -1.0, Caster +4.5, Toe 1/32in,
Nitto NT05 tires.

I know there are better setups, but for the cost vs. handling, it's a beast.

beach cruiser

iTrader: (1)

Koni SA F/R
Strano 550/150
36/22mm Sways (rear adjustable)
Rod ended PHR bar
offset upper front control arm bushings
poly lower bushings
Turn One PS Pump (very Important)
315 18 Hoosier A6's
Aurbon Road Race Diff
PS Cooler

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

How do you like those bars?

I am on 32/19 bars and thinking about moving to 35/21.

I am afraid to change the car LOL, it's all I know. I will slot the lowers for more camber and see how I like that, I only have 1.0 now.

mmarshall

iTrader: (2)

Karl please tell us more about the QA1's. Many of the FFR guys are running them on their cars and have all good comments about them. Other than that I have not read much good about them. The price is tempting to try, but concerned about the quality and longevity in an AX environment.

I currently have the red Konis SA (rebound only) and they are very harsh. There are areas of our track that are so choppy I have to coast across or my head hits the roof as the back of the car gets airborne. Other cars just glide over the same bumps even at full throttle.

Here is what I am looking at:
http://www.breezeautomotive.com/deta...=879&cat_id=35

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Have you tried to loosen the Koni's to help them over the rough stuff?

If you have a lot of unsprung weight like our cars do, it would be hard for a non gas charged shock to work well in this application IMO.

mmarshall

iTrader: (2)

I have them at minimum rebound, but (other than "crosstalk") I am not sure that will help with the harshness of the compression side. I run a Ford 8.8 with a Torsen and a 3-link. The Konis are gas charged. Funny you ask as I am planning to try moving them to the opposite end of the adjustment to make sure I have it right. I hate the Konis as it takes 2-3 hours to make the adjustments which is just stupid! It should not take more than 10 seconds.

I can't figure out why most manufacturers only make rebound adjustable SA's?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Mine adjust with a **** you put on top and turn.

mmarshall

iTrader: (2)

Here is how you adjust my 30 series shocks.
http://www.koni-na.com/pdfcatalogs/KONI004Catalog.pdf

Notice in the graph that rebound adjustment does nothing to the compression side of things. This adjustment takes place only after you pull the shock off the car (including all the shims), take the coilover apart (changing your ride height so now the car needs to really be corner weighted again), and taking the 30 seconds to make the adjustment. Now you get to put it all back together hoping you quessed right at the ride height and you don't need to set up the scales.

Now you get to find some track time only to find out the adjustment is wrong so you get to do it all over again.