Deceptor101

Alright, I've got a real challenge for everyone:
Block is a .03" over 95 LT1 with a 383 stroker crank and what looks like stock style pistons. Heads are stock LT1 heads, ported and polished with Crane *gold* roller rockers. Cam is currently unknown, I'll see what's there when I pull the freeze plug. I have to assume its something other than stock, as who has a 383 crank installed with a stock cam? Intake is stock and P&P as well. This will be running in a '67 pickup, so the headers will be 1-3/4 Oval-port medium length (no d-port headers fit the chassis, only cuts off the smallest corner). Obviously no cat, no A/C and probably no power steering. I have a set of 26# injectors, but I'm wondering if that will be enough? They're still new, so selling and getting 28# or 30# wouldn't be an issue. Also wondering on exhaust options, I'm thinking dual 2.5" side pipes should be enough, and dual 3" might be too much. I'd like to stay away from the sound *everyone's* yukon/silverado makes, and get something a bit louder, snappier and angrier although CA laws prevent straight pipes.....

So: injectors and exhaust opinions would be welcome, general comments too!
Thanks!
Also if anyone knows a place in the SF bay area that will dyno tune this when assembly is done, clearly I'm going to need it.

englundjd

30-36# injectors will do the trick

i reccomend magnaflow or borla mufflers. The 3" pipes will give a deeper tone while the 2 1/2" pipes will be louder and higher pitched.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Magnaflow is my preference for a car that sees street duty.

Injectors will depend on the cam and who did the heads. Crappy no-name heads and a baby cam will be fine on 30#s, but a nasty cam with some well ported heads would need a lot more.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

What kind of crank is it? And plenty of people have put stock cams in a 383 thinking cubic inches alone will add power, only to be disappointed in the power output and selling their motor to someone else....

There's alot of questions I'd get answered before running that engine, what cam? Is the crank cast eagle? What compression? What pistons? 5.7 or 6.0 rods? What do the heads really flow? What valvesprings? What rod bolts?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Why not go with a carburetor?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

^^^^^ I second this

Deceptor101

I took a quick look at it earlier, and the rod bolts are eagle arp 1.5 8740. The rods have 00308 stamped around the joint. Looks like there's something higher up, but its hard to make out. Where would I look on the crank?

Heads are oem LT1 heads, just P&P by a friend of mine who offered to do it for free

E: Thanks for the advice on the Injectors, Anyone looking to buy some Accel 26#s new in box?
Compression should be around 10:1 still, as the pistons are the stock style flat-top with valve relief, and the head hasn't been decked or anything.

Also really not interested in a carb, I like F.I. and I have most of the parts already!

englundjd

no offence, but in all reality, free ported heads... 10:1 compression... yep that'll be a screamer


please bump the compression to around 11-12:1. stock compression is 10.4:1.

Deceptor101

Perhaps a bit more back-story will help here. I got this engine from P&P thinking it was a stock LT1 that I could put in my LeMons Camaro. We saw the roller rockers and figured "Hell, those are worth more than the engine will cost from P&P" Once we got it back, we pulled the heads, saw clean cylinder walls and .03" over pistons. Then we pulled the oil pan and noticed it was a stroker crank. At this point it was too good for the Lemon, and would take too much $$ to be a Lemon motor. I bought it from the team and figured I'd do my research and slowly put it together, eventually putting it in my '67 pickup. It didn't come with Injectors, so hence why they're a wild-card. The PO had done an awful port (and no polish) on the intake, and hadn't touched the heads. It's got some kind of performance valve springs (spring inside a spring inside a spring) but past that, they don't seem to have numbers or anything. I'm not looking to change the bottom end, as that part clearly was assembled by a machine shop, and it'll be above budget, so I'll stick with the pistons that are in there.

TLDR:got the motor for basically free, not looking for massive power, just something fun. Hell, it might never even see a drag strip (at least until i get a rear-end/trans combo that'll do more than 85.

Bonus reasoning for this is the motor in the truck is a tired old service truck (8.5:1 compression, flat tappet cam, tiny 2 barrel intake) engine that leaks from everywhere.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I understand your story but it sounds like you are sitting on less hp than stock. Shittyly ported heads, less than stock compression, I don't see the point in using it.

The reason I asked about the crank is that if its a cast eagle crank it doesn't matter how little hp you make it will snap and is pointless to have in there. Your better off selling it and getting a used stock long block.

But if you use it, stock or those 26lb accells will be fine. It doesn't matter what can is in there you won't be over 350rwhp.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, but how do any of you know the heads will be shitty just because they haven't been to an internets known head porter?
An example of this is a friend of mine (Shawn97Z28M6, who is no longer with us) had a stock set ported for $500 at some local Dallas shop. Those heads were responsible for getting him into the mid 11's with an Xtreme Energy cam and in the 10.80's on a 150 shot. He put LE heads on and had the same results. Dyno numbers and curve were also the same. Brand names don't mean everything.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

10:1 compression and this comment

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I'm confused.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

This.

More people port heads then LE and AI. You could get a less known guy that used to do race heads for a team and have stellar results, or you could get a bad roll of the dice and end up with improperly ported heads that were just hogged out with no rhyme or reason(like my old heads LOL).

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

He is the one who described the port job as "awful", we have no pictures or data beyond his descriptions.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I believe the description had to do with the condition before his guy did anything. The "awful" description had to do with the intake.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The compression ideas are also based on the poster's ignorance. Flat tops with stock type reliefs in a 383 is going to be higher compression than stock.

Far as what the actual compression we would need to know what the heads are. Did he ever say what the original donor vehicle was? If they are iron heads then stock compression was 10:1.

A cheap stroker can make less than stock HP. There was a kid around here for awhile that had a 220rwhp stroker Impala............ way below what the car would have had with the boltons it had with a stock engine.

We don't really know what the details are on this engine but it is real easy to assume it is a joke making poor power and weaker than stock.

Hell porting the stock intake and then not porting the heads is just evidence the person who built the motor was clueless.

Deceptor101

Absolutely I'm ignorant, that's why I'm here, and the person who built the motor was clueless. The car was a 95 Camaro z28, so they're oem LT1 aluminum heads. He'd managed to split the bellhousing in half and wreck the clutch, and then maybe went to jail. I can't see anyone who knew what was on that car sending it to Pick n Pull for $500. I've ended up with it, fixed up the heads and intake and would like to sort it all out. I'll see if I can get some kind of info on the crank and the cam and then we can go from there.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

In all likelyhood the crank is cast and a step backwards from stock. I would refer to the advise above about getting rid of it and getting a stock longblock.

Deceptor101

Looking at pics of cast v forged cranks, looks like mine has been modified or something: https://i.imgur.com/6mnSy5A.jpg
Only thing I can find on it is is a "Sunra" etch on the flywheel end of the crank. Looks like it was Sunray before the crank was changed, but that doesn't seem to tell me much.