A new nitrous problem
09-08-2013, 09:52 AM
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A new nitrous problem I'm getting tired of finding new ways for my system not to work. 
First, my fuel pressure safety switch keeps adjusting itself down so it won't allow the system to turn on. I finally wired around the damn thing.
Then the nitrous pressure switch for the auto heater failed. I replaced that.
Now my nitrous solenoid won't flow if the pressure is over 1,000 PSI. It works fine at 800-900 pressure, but shuts down above that.
Is the solenoid failing? Shouldn't it flow even at 1100 PSI?
Everybody else seems to need a heater, I need to keep the bottle cold.
First, my fuel pressure safety switch keeps adjusting itself down so it won't allow the system to turn on. I finally wired around the damn thing.
Then the nitrous pressure switch for the auto heater failed. I replaced that.
Now my nitrous solenoid won't flow if the pressure is over 1,000 PSI. It works fine at 800-900 pressure, but shuts down above that.
Is the solenoid failing? Shouldn't it flow even at 1100 PSI?
Everybody else seems to need a heater, I need to keep the bottle cold.
09-08-2013, 11:27 AM
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It's the top of the line Nitrous Outlet kit for LS-7's. It's a year and a half old. Only 4-5 bottles put through it.
The symptoms were at pressure in the green on the bottle gauge the nitrous would come on HARD at 3,000 rpm, begin "stuttering or fluttering at 5,000 rpm, and by 6,000 the car would lay down, and run slower than without the nitrous being activated. I'm leaning on the solenoid going bad as at all times the purge solenoid worked.
The symptoms were at pressure in the green on the bottle gauge the nitrous would come on HARD at 3,000 rpm, begin "stuttering or fluttering at 5,000 rpm, and by 6,000 the car would lay down, and run slower than without the nitrous being activated. I'm leaning on the solenoid going bad as at all times the purge solenoid worked.
09-08-2013, 01:02 PM
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Hmmm...well I recently had a similar issue (cutting in and out and whatnot) and it turned out to be a bad relay that ran through the firewall and into my window switch
09-08-2013, 01:51 PM
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When I run it with the pressure in the 800-900 PSI range it works like a champ, so I doubt that's the problem.
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09-13-2013, 07:33 PM
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[QUOTE=good2go;17671120]First, my fuel pressure safety switch keeps adjusting itself down so it won't allow the system to turn on. I finally wired around the damn thing.
I've seen that happen a lot but rather than lose the protection of the switch, might I suggest the following simple solution;
Once you've adjusted the switch to where you want it to be, drip some paint over the adjusting screw and that will lock it in place for you.
Now my nitrous solenoid won't flow if the pressure is over 1,000 PSI. It works fine at 800-900 pressure, but shuts down above that.
Assuming the solenoid is not at fault, the cause of that problem is LACK OF ADEQUATE CURRENT, so you need to beef up one or ALL of the components in your supply circuit, which includes, wire grade, connectors, switches, relays, etc. etc.
To get a solenoid to work at the highest possible pressure you MUST supply it with the maximum possible current.
If you're not electrically minded, you can think of it like this, if you had a water hose with a partial restriction in it, the water would just dribble out of the end at reduced pressure, well the same applies to electrical current, if you have a restriction in the circuit, the current will dribble out of the end and have reduced power.
A wire that is too thin or a connection that isn't designed to handle high current, would be the electrical equivalent of a restriction in a water hose.
Is the solenoid failing? Shouldn't it flow even at 1100 PSI?
Good quality solenoids are usually tested to in excess of 50% higher pressure than they are intended to be used at, so it should EASILY open at 1,000+ psi.
The solenoid MIGHT be failing (repeated heating of the coil can cause the insulation to breakdown) but it's more likely to be a lack of current and as that is easier to resolve than removing and replacing the solenoid, that would be the simplest thing to try first.
Everybody else seems to need a heater, I need to keep the bottle cold.
Talking of heaters, IF you have any other high load component connected to the solenoid supply (for example a heater), that would drain some of the current from the solenoids, so to be certain that you're not suffering from that problem, you should disconnect everything except the solenoids from that feed.
A VERY SIMPLE way to prove that the solenoid is NOT the problem, is to take TWO THICK wires and connect them to each terminal of the battery and then disconnect the solenoid from the normal circuit and just HOTWIRE the solenoid to the battery. If the solenoid works at 1,000+ like that, then the problem is DEFINITELY lack of adequate current.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Trevor Langfield
I've seen that happen a lot but rather than lose the protection of the switch, might I suggest the following simple solution;
Once you've adjusted the switch to where you want it to be, drip some paint over the adjusting screw and that will lock it in place for you.
Now my nitrous solenoid won't flow if the pressure is over 1,000 PSI. It works fine at 800-900 pressure, but shuts down above that.
Assuming the solenoid is not at fault, the cause of that problem is LACK OF ADEQUATE CURRENT, so you need to beef up one or ALL of the components in your supply circuit, which includes, wire grade, connectors, switches, relays, etc. etc.
To get a solenoid to work at the highest possible pressure you MUST supply it with the maximum possible current.
If you're not electrically minded, you can think of it like this, if you had a water hose with a partial restriction in it, the water would just dribble out of the end at reduced pressure, well the same applies to electrical current, if you have a restriction in the circuit, the current will dribble out of the end and have reduced power.
A wire that is too thin or a connection that isn't designed to handle high current, would be the electrical equivalent of a restriction in a water hose.
Is the solenoid failing? Shouldn't it flow even at 1100 PSI?
Good quality solenoids are usually tested to in excess of 50% higher pressure than they are intended to be used at, so it should EASILY open at 1,000+ psi.
The solenoid MIGHT be failing (repeated heating of the coil can cause the insulation to breakdown) but it's more likely to be a lack of current and as that is easier to resolve than removing and replacing the solenoid, that would be the simplest thing to try first.
Everybody else seems to need a heater, I need to keep the bottle cold.
Talking of heaters, IF you have any other high load component connected to the solenoid supply (for example a heater), that would drain some of the current from the solenoids, so to be certain that you're not suffering from that problem, you should disconnect everything except the solenoids from that feed.
A VERY SIMPLE way to prove that the solenoid is NOT the problem, is to take TWO THICK wires and connect them to each terminal of the battery and then disconnect the solenoid from the normal circuit and just HOTWIRE the solenoid to the battery. If the solenoid works at 1,000+ like that, then the problem is DEFINITELY lack of adequate current.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Trevor Langfield
09-15-2013, 08:25 AM
#10
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Good points Trevor. I believe the wire gauges and relays are adequate, it USED to work correctly at higher pressure. MAY be connection problems, I'll check them. The paint idea is great, I'll definitely do that!
09-17-2013, 09:27 AM
#11
Contact me and send the solenoid in. Let me check it out for you. If it opens at 900 and 950 psi but not a 1000 its a solenoid issue. No since and letting someone make it more complicated than it is.
We will repair the issue or replace the solenoid for free. :-)
Dave
We will repair the issue or replace the solenoid for free. :-)
Dave
09-17-2013, 02:14 PM
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Contact me and send the solenoid in. Let me check it out for you. If it opens at 900 and 950 psi but not a 1000 its a solenoid issue. No since and letting someone make it more complicated than it is.
We will repair the issue or replace the solenoid for free. :-)
Dave
We will repair the issue or replace the solenoid for free. :-)
Dave
09-17-2013, 09:20 PM
#13
Guys, you'll quickly find out that Trevor knows everything about everything and is never wrong. Ever. Seriously...Never.
OP, Nitrous Outlet is offering to inspect your solenoids for you. Even if it's an electrical issue, I'd let them check the solenoids out anyways. Why not, right?
OP, Nitrous Outlet is offering to inspect your solenoids for you. Even if it's an electrical issue, I'd let them check the solenoids out anyways. Why not, right?
